Want to go synthetic but don't really understand it. :(

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Hi All,

Here's the deal. I'd like to go to a synth blend but I'm afraid to. I know that sounds rather stupid, does'nt it? I'm simply afraid that say a 10w/30 synth blend just can't protect my engine like a 10w/30 dino oil.

Can someone please kindly explain to me if synth blends are *truly better* in every way to their same-weight dino counterparts? In comparison here are my oils I'm speaking of.

1. Pennzoil 10w/30 or Castrol GTX 10/w30 (I use these exclusively, which ever one is cheaper.

2. Let's say Valvoline Durablend 10w/30, Motorcraft 10w/30 synth blend.

I'd be doing 3k either way, using either purolator premium plus filters in a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ 4.0L I-6

thank you in advance for any advice and help to open my eyes to this.

Marc
 
The rap against some syn blends is they aren't a great value for the money. This has nothing necessarily to do with protecting your engines. Any GOOD oil will protect your engine for 3K miles, so save your money.

Some synthetic blend oils give excellent wear numbers. Scheafer's comes to mind.

Some blends cost $3/qt and have how much synthetic??? Not much.

I'm mixing my own (don't do this). My bet is my wear numbers will be good.
 
With 3000 mile oil changes you probably don't even need a good oil.

Unless you make a lot of short, cool trips where your engine never has a chance to get fully warmed, I'd run one of those conventional 10W-30 oils and that filter for 5000 miles. I agree, most synthetic blend oils are good but not worth the price they ask.


Ken
 
If you are going to change your oil every 3,000 miles go get Wal*Mart SuperTech conventional oil for $0.8x per quart. Always available, reasonable price, and decent stuff. You don't need any blend or synthetic.

Happy motoring!
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If you want to go synthetic, do it.
But my Jeep 4.0 has run on Castrol GTX 10W30 for the first 80K or so, now Chevron 10W30 and has absolutely been loving it.
 
Synthetics (even the "pretend ones"-which are technically called Group III-Syntech, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc) Have fewer impurities, withstand higher temps and will protect better under adverse conditions)

Probably in your case just go for an oil that has GF-4 specification on it. This will insure that you are getting an eta measure of performance. Chances are that this oil will be a blend.

All Conoco oils (Conoco, Philips Trop Arctic, 76, and Kendall) and supposedly Mobil DriveClean have synthetic bases.

[ October 02, 2004, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
Mobil Drive Clean HM is a PAO/dino blend, the other synthetic blends on the market are Grp III blends.

Group III base oils are described as severely hydrocracked and the origin is a barrel of crude, same as Groups 1 & 2.

So, at least in my book, the synthetic blends, such as Castrol Syntec Blend and Valvoline Durablend, are simply blends of highly refined dino oils.
 
With a 3k OCI ...any synth would be a waste of money ..unless you're in the extreme north and experience -20 temps for the winter. If that were the case ..then I would use synth just for the winter and use dino for the other 3k OCIs.


What's your "time" on this OCI anyway ..and what engine are you talking about anyway? Many here have found "engine specific" characteristics that favor one oil over another in some broad operational conditions.

Btw-there is parole from the 3k/3m OCI prison if you seek an escape. I know it's scary ...being an inmate for most of your life. 3 - 4 OCI's a year ..the warm and fuzzy feeling of security that you have a predictible environment. It's sorta like being a Romanian. There was a certain comfort to having their door kicked in every couple of weeks by the secret police ..they cared. The thought of being liberated from this monitoring ...was down right scary.......
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(sorry guys ..I couldn't resist
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)
 
I see it as value to what you own(vehicle). Any good name brand dino oil will do fine for 3K OCI. Some like using synthetic cause of performance wise. Looking at value, synthetic blend is like a cross of dino and benefit of using synthetic oil. One comes to mind is the Motorcraft or Conoco brand synthetic blend price and performance. Whats an extra $2 per oil change the way i see it for the MC synthetic blend that gives great wear protection like synthetic oil. I like using synthetic oil, it gives that extra cushion in protection and the Conoco brand synthetic blend giving it's price is a very good choice over dino oil.
 
To answer your original question without getting to technical.

Crude Oil is made up of a lot of different size molecules.

Lube Oil Basestocks are refined to get a better mix of molecules closer to the right size for lubrication.

In synthetics all the molucules are custom designed to be the same size and shape just the right size for that use.

The following are the original natural characteristics of most Synthetics and Dinos

Synthetics:
1. Withstand Higher Temps
2. Withstand Shearing Forces Better (Loose Viscosity less)
3. Are less Volatile (Burn off less).
4. In some cases cling to metal better.
5. Higher Natural TBN (Acid Neutralizing Ability)

Conventional Oils:
1. Have Better Solvency allowing a more additives to be added
2. Have slightly more natural cleansing action (of course they breakdown more adding more build-up).
3. Better natural seal conditioner.

In practice most of the drawbacks to synthetics have been addressed. A Carrier goes in with the additive package, seal conditioners, and good detergents.

Todays Dinos are more refined than ever before which means in practice they have lost a lot of the natural characteristics of Dinos and act more like synthetics.

The gap between synthetics and Dinos has never been narrower with better add packages allowing Dinos to go longer and better add packages allowing synthetics to go longer yet while keeping a very clean engine with good seal life.

Basically in my opinion the primary difference between todays Highly Refined Group II-III Dinos and Group IV-V Synthetics is that due to the higher prices commanded by synthetics top quality add packs can be used allowing 10,000-30,000 mile oil changes in passenger cars.

In some heavy trucks with Bypass Filters the oil is never changed. Only what is burned and lost during filter changes is replaced.

For 3000-5000 mi oil changes the Castrol and Pennzoil Dino will treat you well. I would only change to synthetic if I was going to run 5,000 mi+ OCI, Ran frequent short trips, or operated in a very cold climate.

Gene
 
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