over the 50 or so years of cutting firewood and knowing the guys that do tree removal /trimming for a living (Stihl users) i would recommend the MS 170 great saw and packs more of a punch than you would think. like others here say, if you never cut a tree down, be careful, things can go wrong in a hurry.
Want to buy a chainsaw
- Thread starter zorobabel
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I own a corded Craftsman purchased at Lowes. Best chainsaw I ever owned. The average homeowner doesn’t use a gas powered saw enough to keep it ready for use. I’ve owned gas saws. When you really need it (after a storm) it won’t crank, or it starts leaking, or it cranks but keeps stalling….
Corded or not, electric is the way to go for the average homeowner.
Corded or not, electric is the way to go for the average homeowner.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
They are handy - have four 20amp gfci outdoor plugs and 10awg/12awg cord - if it’s over 50’ feet from one - and my 40v is not stout enough - that’s when I reach for the Stihl gasser …
As said all throughout this thread, safety first. Sounds like you are aware though.
Personally, I would avoid corded with how much cordless has advanced. If you get a decent platform (Makita, Milwaulkee, Ryobi etc.) batteries will obviously power many different tools you may acquire. That said, I have gone the battery route for a chainsaw. The one I got was not really up to the task of the heavier DIY stuff I did, so I went back to gas. Echo 4910 at HD for cheap money and the thing is fantastic. I've been cutting everything in sight it seems and never a hiccup. Even threw it in the cruiser with our last storm and cleared a few downed tress. If you go gas, canned fuel if you will use it every so often (you WILL find use for it), and it will get passed down to your kids.
Personally, I would avoid corded with how much cordless has advanced. If you get a decent platform (Makita, Milwaulkee, Ryobi etc.) batteries will obviously power many different tools you may acquire. That said, I have gone the battery route for a chainsaw. The one I got was not really up to the task of the heavier DIY stuff I did, so I went back to gas. Echo 4910 at HD for cheap money and the thing is fantastic. I've been cutting everything in sight it seems and never a hiccup. Even threw it in the cruiser with our last storm and cleared a few downed tress. If you go gas, canned fuel if you will use it every so often (you WILL find use for it), and it will get passed down to your kids.
I love my Craftsman 18" corded chainsaw.
I’ve got a Husqvarna - even though the Stihl factory is a couple miles from my house. I run the Husky on tru-fuel, and I pull it out and fire it up every couple months - it starts right up.
I think the fuel matters - I had a Stihl string trimmer that was a total pain to start - and then after a few months, it died. Wouldn’t start at all. The E10 had degraded the fuel line from tank to carb, so it was sucking air. Replaced the line and it was much better.
That’s the day I switched to Tru-Fuel. Never looked back.
If the average homeowner is letting the saw sit most of the time, they are not spending much on fuel, and the increased cost of tru-fuel is very small. But the storage difference (stability, ease of start) is huge - which makes the good stuff a bargain.
I keep couple of cans of the tru-fuel around.
Along with several spare chains, a good supply of bar oil, a spare plug, and a spare bar. A good file keeps the chains sharp. But that Husky just keeps running great on Tru-fuel.
And to go back to the safety discussion - I have been asked to loan out the saw - I have never let someone borrow my saw. Give me a time when I can come over and I will gladly help you.
And I will be wearing my steel-toe boots, chaps, gloves, eye protection and helmet with ear protection and face shield.
Most recently, I removed the better part of a scrub oak from my MIL backyard. the branch of that tree was over 2 feet in diameter. A big, old, oak. A ton of work. An all afternoon job. Those old oaks are tough. And tough on chains. Gasoline was absolutely the right way to go for power. I would have killed the batteries quickly, and I certainly didn’t want to worry about a cord while running the saw.
One final thought - always have an axe nearby. Sledge with wedges, even better. Things happen.
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Young engineer at work was named 600 for a while … bought a place with a few trees - decided to sky top them - he likes good brands - so I recommend Stihl. $600. I gave him a good chat on using one - and PPE - he sends pictures of $600 in PPE - boots and all. Then I asked him about the trees a month later. Said he hired some guys - Oh, how much ? $600 
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burbguy82
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I recommend Echo. Made in Japan available at home depot and many Kubota dealers. Have never had any issue with Echo. I have a CS590 Timberwolf which is a goliath in power.
Further, use the product "Trufuel". In the saw. It will get used and put up, if you use Trufuel, you will never have a fuel related issue.
It sounds like you are not a hands on kind of person. Good that you are getting some stuff to do stuff, but be careful with the chainsaw...........at the very least, get a face shield, glove and some pants.
A chainsaw is a devastating tool.
Further, use the product "Trufuel". In the saw. It will get used and put up, if you use Trufuel, you will never have a fuel related issue.
It sounds like you are not a hands on kind of person. Good that you are getting some stuff to do stuff, but be careful with the chainsaw...........at the very least, get a face shield, glove and some pants.
A chainsaw is a devastating tool.
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I recently purchased an Echo 50cc saw on closeout at Homeless Depot. The chain is driven right off the crankshaft/clutch assy. No plastic gears. It's turned out to be a good quality saw, close, but not quite as good as my legendary Husqvarna 346xp, which is in my opinion, the best rip-snorting 50cc saw ever made.
With regard to battery powered OPE: Consider that a well chosen brand might actually be cost effective with just 1 pair of batteries. Mower, edger, trimmer, blower, drill, saws, floodlight, etc all use the same battery. 1) The battery will see many cycles, so it will cycle out before it ages out. 2) Tools don't really go bad. 3) Replacement batteries are expensive, but not more than replacement gas tools. 4) You get the benefit of quiet tools that always start.
In other words, an 8 year battery replacement cycle is in the acceptable cost range for overall OPE expenses "IF" all the tools are the same quality brand.
Of course, battery power has capacity limitations. Works for many with modest yards. Less useful for acreage.
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Learn the safety tips and rent a saw , been a chainsaw user all my life . Look at the safety videos on you tube and rent a chain saw a few times and see how it is. A commercial type is always a better buy that something from Home Depot and Lowes. I am thinking about buying an battery powered saw for pruning work, hit the trigger and it starts cutting, let the trigger off and it is off nice.. I have a 20 year old Husky Rancher what ever the number is. I run pump gas and name brand 2 stroke oil at 32 /1 and just drain out the gas into a lawn mower when done , No true fuel or other storage voo doo . Chain lube,,, what ever is around used oil :Left over tractor oil I never noticed a difference .
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Depending on your tree size, and your fitness, a couple of decent hand saws can make pretty short work of live stuff under 8" Dead hardwood is less fun.
IMO chainsaws are kind of an all-in, or out tool as felling a tree is not a place to learn as you go.... You should take a weekend chainsaw course and get all the safety stuff to use one, or don't use one.
I have a silky zubat 330mm that stays on the Atv for trail trimming and the smaller downed trees. A Silky one will work well as long as you keep it out of the dirt and some of the mid prices ones might too?
A 360mm or 400mm saw is probably best for you if you don't want to mess with a chainsaw. Also a cheap felling axe works great for chopping roots in the dirt, just sharpen it up with the angle grinder after hitting bigger rocks.
IMO chainsaws are kind of an all-in, or out tool as felling a tree is not a place to learn as you go.... You should take a weekend chainsaw course and get all the safety stuff to use one, or don't use one.
I have a silky zubat 330mm that stays on the Atv for trail trimming and the smaller downed trees. A Silky one will work well as long as you keep it out of the dirt and some of the mid prices ones might too?
A 360mm or 400mm saw is probably best for you if you don't want to mess with a chainsaw. Also a cheap felling axe works great for chopping roots in the dirt, just sharpen it up with the angle grinder after hitting bigger rocks.
dnewton3
Staff member
Here are my comments:
1) SAFETY is paramount; you need to be aware that not only are the chainsaws dangerous, but the the trees themselves also. Trees can have unsafe limbs that could fall on you; trees have odd ways of falling and can kickback at you, trees can come down OK but be "loaded" with tension or compression and spring back at you ... the list is nearly endless. I've spent a lifetime felling and cutting up trees and it's dangerous even for me.
2) electric corded models are some of the cheapest. Cheap in price and cheap in quality. Just realize you get what you pay for.
3) cordless models from recognizable brand names are pricey, and often only come as the saw alone (which wont' even include a battery), or as a kit (saw, battery, charger). These kits cost every bit as much, if not more, than a decent beginner gas-powered saw
4) gas powered saws provide excellent service, but also present challenges for occasional users. 2strk engines are finicky at times, and you have to deal with mixing fuels, etc. Plus, given that the OP is going to be a part-time user ... it's highly likely that the saw will be put away "wet" and then have a lot of problems upon the next call for service ...
5) speaking of pre-mixing fuel and oil ... get a quality oil from a brand name source. Stihl, Echo and Husqvarna are made to a high standard that will reduce ash production, reduce piston scuffing and carbon buildup, etc
6) there are some YT vids out there (check out "Chickanick") which have shown that the pre-packaged fuels sold (gas in a can by TruFuel and other brands) aren't as energy dense as the fuel you can buy from the pump. Obviously, those were anecdotal events, but it does give rise to fair questions about the quality of canned fuels.
7) as for saw brands... Every saw brand will have models that either are a bit better or worse than a competitors model; you cannot say that any one brand is "best" across the board. I think Stihl makes some of the best professional models, but their lower cost stuff isn't that impressive to me. I favor Echo and Stihl. I've used Huskys and they do well too.
1) SAFETY is paramount; you need to be aware that not only are the chainsaws dangerous, but the the trees themselves also. Trees can have unsafe limbs that could fall on you; trees have odd ways of falling and can kickback at you, trees can come down OK but be "loaded" with tension or compression and spring back at you ... the list is nearly endless. I've spent a lifetime felling and cutting up trees and it's dangerous even for me.
2) electric corded models are some of the cheapest. Cheap in price and cheap in quality. Just realize you get what you pay for.
3) cordless models from recognizable brand names are pricey, and often only come as the saw alone (which wont' even include a battery), or as a kit (saw, battery, charger). These kits cost every bit as much, if not more, than a decent beginner gas-powered saw
4) gas powered saws provide excellent service, but also present challenges for occasional users. 2strk engines are finicky at times, and you have to deal with mixing fuels, etc. Plus, given that the OP is going to be a part-time user ... it's highly likely that the saw will be put away "wet" and then have a lot of problems upon the next call for service ...
5) speaking of pre-mixing fuel and oil ... get a quality oil from a brand name source. Stihl, Echo and Husqvarna are made to a high standard that will reduce ash production, reduce piston scuffing and carbon buildup, etc
6) there are some YT vids out there (check out "Chickanick") which have shown that the pre-packaged fuels sold (gas in a can by TruFuel and other brands) aren't as energy dense as the fuel you can buy from the pump. Obviously, those were anecdotal events, but it does give rise to fair questions about the quality of canned fuels.
7) as for saw brands... Every saw brand will have models that either are a bit better or worse than a competitors model; you cannot say that any one brand is "best" across the board. I think Stihl makes some of the best professional models, but their lower cost stuff isn't that impressive to me. I favor Echo and Stihl. I've used Huskys and they do well too.
agreed, and the specs, and reviews, say the 18" is a totally different/better piece of gear.
In general,
I thought about getting another 50-60cc 18” saw when I got to Virginia Beach, but it was just more saw than I needed as an occasional user. My little 16” Husky has worked well. Cuts well, though not quite as fast as the 55 Rancher.
*was. The ex kept it in the divorce, even though she didn’t know the first thing about running it, but she was just like that…so, I suspect that saw is long since dead from neglect.
In general, I reckon an 18” bar is the break point between homeowner, and professional saws. Certainly if the factory puts an 18” bar on it, the saw has some grunt. My old Husky 55 Rancher came with an 18” bar. It was* a great saw. When I lived in Vermont, and had six acres of Maple and Ash, and used firewood, a good saw, a step up from the homeowner level, was essential.
I thought about getting another 50-60cc 18” saw when I got to Virginia Beach, but it was just more saw than I needed as an occasional user. My little 16” Husky has worked well. Cuts well, though not quite as fast as the 55 Rancher.
*was. The ex kept it in the divorce, even though she didn’t know the first thing about running it, but she was just like that…so, I suspect that saw is long since dead from neglect.
Thanks! So the heirloom crib and the good chainsaw...
Here is a great (or terrible) sub on Reddit with so many terrible mistakes, and some decent felling. This one video in particular illustrates so many wrong things to do.
Separately, Farmcraft on YT has multiple videos on Chainsaw techniques and different situations. He also works on a bit of heavy equipment too and have learned a bit about hydraulics and other stuff.
Separately, Farmcraft on YT has multiple videos on Chainsaw techniques and different situations. He also works on a bit of heavy equipment too and have learned a bit about hydraulics and other stuff.
The man never heard of a wedge. You could see the lean and it was obvious the way that was going to go.
Thank you all for posting and helping!
I ended up buying a lightly used Craftsman corded - 16" 12A for $38.
It cut acceptably until I hit embeded rocks and dirt ( I tried to cut really low, dug around the tree), not so much after that. The freaking tree was dense and sappy.
I need to sharpen that chain now...
This particular model (CMECS600) isn't well suited to cutting dense stuff thicker than 6" (not enough power), but it slowly got the job done.
As you can tell I'm still alive... and no property damage beside the chain.
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