Want bypass for my Cummins ISB

[Olaf]

Brand spankin' new here. Done some searching, but so far haven't found just what I'm looking for.

I have a '99 Dodge with Cummins ISB and I want to install a bypass oil filter. A few big questions come to mind:
1. Is it ok to tap into the test port on the stock filter head to supply my bypass filter?

2. If I do that, should I incorporate some kind of restrictive fitting to limit a) what the pressure at this location tries to force into the bypass filter and b) the amount of oil diverted from the turbo?

3. What should I look for in a filter in terms of Beta ratio, gpm, and any other important factors.

4. I'm leaning toward tapping my return line into the oil fill cap in the valve cover. Is this fine, or is there a better easy way?

I'm just a beginner with this stuff, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Shaman]

Well, the easiest way, is to put a sandwich adapter on your current filter mount and run a bypass adapter that way, if you have room for one.

 

[msparks]

The Amsoil Single system is pretty easy to mount on a cummins. Same goes with the Dual Remote. I've seen some mount it on the support that is below the radiator. Of coarse it will be mounted Horizontal.

 

[md_lucky_13]

You should check out my thread "I can't be the first."

1: Yes, you can tap directly into that port. That is where I will be taking my oil draw from.

2: From what I understand, no oil is diverted from the turbo. If you are using a bypass filter that does not already have the restriction, then you will need a restrictor. If you are using a filter that has the restriction (Wix 51050 for example) then you can take directly from there.

3: The best you can afford. For spin on, Amsoil has the competition beat hands down. But, you will be paying $30 every time you change the filter, compared to $7 for Wix 51050 or 50 cents for a roll of toilet paper

4: Even easier is to order a cap from motorguard that already has the cap tapped and all fittings in place. They are expensive, but worth it as far as construction is concerned.


I should have my bypass system done by Tuesday next week, and I will put up as many pictures as possible. You can build an identical system to mine, with all the brackets I have had built, the oil cap, the filter base, filter, lines, etc. etc. etc. for around $100, and you will have a spin on filter (little mess) that can be found at any wix dealer for only $7.

 

[md_lucky_13]

motorguard.. that is the TP elements

My bad..

OIL guard:

http://www.oilguard.com/Merchant4/m...roduct_Code=EPS-OFCSW-DC&Category_Code=dodge1

 

[Olaf]

Thanks for the helpful responses. I printed up the long "I can't be the first" thread for a little bedtime reading.

 

[Filter guy]

Use a Luberfiner 750.

It takes 3 1/2 gallons of oil to fill. You'll have the benefits of all the additional oil package. There are two filter element options the 3845 which is a 10 micron filter and the 2122 which is a 7 micron oil filter.

They've been around for ages. Any truck dealer should be able to sell one to you. If not pm me and i'll help you locate one near you.

 

[Gary Allan]

Just to let him know what proportions that he's dealing with here

 

[Filter guy]

Ahhh but that's a Fleetguard by-pass unit. You can tell by the flat top. The Luberfiner has about a 5 inch dome to the top.

And as for size....it's been used on Cummins and all heavy duty engines since the 1936..

It's the industry standard.

The Fleetguard element pictured is actually made by Luber-finer and private labelled for them. As is the Donaldson, Baldwin, and i believe Wix..

And I should know I was on the element production line and had to build those when I was a rookie salesman. To bad they don't do that any more with new sales guys they might understand filtration a bit better...lol

The Luber-finer 750 still is available as option at all the truck manufacturers. The part number for a complete unit is 5234. It can be mounted upright, horizontal or inverted. That Fleetguard unit can't ..

The usual mounting place is on the frame rail by the battery box with todays aerodynamic trucks. In the "old" days it would be mounted where you could see it outside the engine hood.

Typically you can extend your drain interval at least 30% with a "Luber-finer". With oil analysis it's more like 50%.

 

[Olaf]

I sure appreciate the help here. I like the Luberfiner 750's track record, and something that size would look pretty cool alongside my Fleetguard 19037 air filter. However, I was hoping for something a little more like the
Obviously, I'm new to all the secondary filtration stuff, eager to learn all I can about it, so feel free to tell me if what I'm aiming for is overkill. Also, I'm curious about the TP setups. It sounds like they get even the tiniest stuff out of the oil, with the tradeoff that the "element" needs more frequent replacement. Apart from that, I really know nothing about them...but I'd like to!

I'm sure I'm asking stuff that's been asked a thousand times. Sorry for that. What brought me here was good luck, and the desire to build a budget-conscious bypass filtration system that keeps my oil as clean as possible. Whether I buy replacement elements from a truck shop or from the grocery store doesen't matter to me. Any further information, or directions to relevant threads, would be happily received. Thanks.

 

[Filter guy]

The Luberfiner is a 4 micron filter, and a 3 micron and a 2 micron and a 1 micron. It just depends on how efficient we are talking.

Even Mercedes Benz couldn't believe how good the Luber-finer was. They offer it as well as an option worldwide for their diesel heavy duty engines.

Btw..the filter itself takes about 7 pounds of contaminant to plug...and your toilet paper rolls?

 

[Gary Allan]

Olan, Amsoil spin-ons are a 3um absolute. What Mel is saying is that all size particles will be trapped in the 750 ..just not as many as they get smaller. As Mel hinted, as you go lower in size .. the % of efficiency goes down. It will still be great.

If you don't go for the big boy, you may consider either a the Amsoil Dual Guard or a pair of Motor Guards. With the tp, you would still be servicing one every 3-5k, I imagine, but would probably have the finest filtration. I would change out one prematurely (about halfway) for the first tp change. I would then alternate which unit I serviced at the change out mark. You're then assured that you have at least one filter that is in the prime of its life on line ..and not two that are nearly saturated when it comes time to change them both out.

I'd do the same if I chose a Dual Guard ..except I would probably save the half spent BE110 in a plastic bag for use later on since it's so expensive.

 

[Olaf]

I thought I'd decided upon a Baldwin B164, but now its filtration capabilities just don't seem worth the bother. Now I'm leaning toward getting an Amsoil BP80 mount and the BE100 filter. I'll put the rest together on my own.

I'm having trouble, though, learning just how well these filters work. Amsoil says they filter down to <1 micron, but as I've learned from some of you all, that's not the most reliable measurement; accidentally snagging something that small could, by some definitions, make it a submicronic filter. Does anyone know how well these filters actually do their job, in terms of Beta ratio, absolute and nominal ratings, or some other reliable, accepted method of measurement? And one more thing, how long do they last, generally? Thank you!

 

[Filter guy]

50% efficiency = nominal = Beta 2

98.7% efficiency = absolute = Beta 75

As oil filter companies define test results.

Amsoil and every filter will filter down to
The question is at what efficiency. Don't hold your breath that they will give you actual testing info at small micron ratings.

All i can say is Cummins is well aware of the effectiveness of the Luberfiner style by-pass.

It will hold upwards of 7 pounds of contaminant.

It will filter the 5-25 micron size particles much more effectively and efficiently than a full flow filter or combo filter will.

One of the reasons for this is the lower flow rate so that the filter media can have the "time" to remove the particle from the oil. The higher flow rates of full flow filters don't allow for the same effectiveness of removing particles from oil.

There's a lot of snake oil selling when it comes to by-pass filters. It is better to ask those who do oil analysis on their big rigs to explain what they themselves have found out over time when using by-pass filtration.

As you drive around and see others with by-pass units on their rigs..ask them.

PS: Caterpillar sends a Luber-finer by-pass unit with every stationary engine they ship overseas to China. I'm sure you've seen their tv ads about what they are doing in China. < or they did when I was there. As I had to answer some questions for a Chinese distributor.>

 

[Gary Allan]

The Amsoil BE line is allegedly 3um absolute.


I agree with Mel on the velocity issue. That's why you have silt at deltas in every river. The velocity of the flow can no longer support the debris contained within it. It sinks out ..or gets "snagged" by something that it would just flow by otherwise by the force of the flow.

That 750 sure would look impressive under the hood. I wonder what service length you could get out of it and if it would outlive the oil in terms of additive depletion

 

[msparks]

FYI,

The Current bypass elements are 3um absolute and 1 micron nominal (50%)

In the very near future the bypass elements will be using the NANO technology from the FF filter and are said to be 2um absolute.

 

[Olaf]

That Luberfiner is still an interesting option; not sure where I'd shoehorn the thing in, though.

The nominal and absolute ratings of the Amsoil BE bypass filters are pretty much in line with what I'm aiming for. Do you know, msparks, what the change intervals are (I know this depends on several factors; I'm just looking for a general estimate, or even a guess...1k, 5k, 10k miles?

Thank you all for the ongoing help!