Guys I have a 2005 Toyota Tundra 4.7 L motor with 5,000 miles on it. Live in NC . I have ran Havoline 5w 30 dino in it to date. Did the only oil change at 1,000 K's. I change the oil just once a year with the amount of miles I put on it. LOw amount . I use it for trips and exploreing really. I want to switch to synthetic. Wallyworld has Mobile 1, Penzoil Platnium and Castrol syntec (spelling ,sorry ) . Im no oil geek so all these post about the different groups makes my head spin. Out of the 3 ea mentioned and cost not being an issue out of the three, which would the the choice. I know that is an loaded question for this site ..LOL.... I know the Havoline has been good oil and all but a friend of mine just had issues with his Toyota camry 4 banger with about 60 K's on it and we pulled the valve cover and it was sludged up bad. He claimed to have changed the oil very 5000K's. So while I know the partcular engine has had this sort of problem from Yota, I was wanting to step up and give my nice Tundra a better oil for protction ( in therory ) and go with synthetic oil. Thanks in advance, WarDawg
WalMart synthetic oil choices. Tundra 4.7
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go get the pennzoil plat. thats on sale at advance autoparts buy one get one
Pennzoil Platinum will be fine. $18.97 5 Qt jug at WalMart or Buy One Get One Free at Advance Autoparts.
However seriously the Toyota 4.7L is a potential 500,000 mi engine if cared for. The Havoline will do fine in that application.
I suspect the Camry had a lot of short trips where it did not reach full operating temp, a malfunctioning thermostat, or a internal coolant leak.
The 4 cylinder Camry is not as prone to sludge as the 3.0 V-6 although it was occurring with a lot of short-trippers and 7500 mi OCI.
However seriously the Toyota 4.7L is a potential 500,000 mi engine if cared for. The Havoline will do fine in that application.
I suspect the Camry had a lot of short trips where it did not reach full operating temp, a malfunctioning thermostat, or a internal coolant leak.
The 4 cylinder Camry is not as prone to sludge as the 3.0 V-6 although it was occurring with a lot of short-trippers and 7500 mi OCI.
If the engine was mine I would just buy a 5 Qt Jug ($10) of Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend and change it every 5000 mi.
Pennzoil Platinum is no longer on sale at AAP. Sale ended Nov 25, 2006.
Wardawg,
Your Tundra motor is no way near the same as your buddy's 4 banger. The 2UZFE engine in your Tundra is extremely easy on oil. They are also some of the lowest wearing motors according the used oil analysis on this site. You won't have problems with sludge on conventional at 5K OCIs on this motor. I've put cheapo Chevron 5W30 in it and it performed extremely well.
I have the same motor, I do about the same mileage as you and I do use a synthetic. I will change it once a year at about 5K (I was changing it at 6 months but it was really a waste). Even I will admit that the Chevron Supreme 5W30 would have made it a year. I just wanted to put synthetic in it because I felt that it was going in for a year and I have very severe service (5 mile trips, 4 times a day. The engine oil never gets to temp - ever!).
My oil of choice is the Amsoil 0W30 series 2000 oil. But, honestly, ANY oil is going to do just fine in that motor. Don't worry about sludge, it's not even close to the same technology as the 4 cylinders.
Oh and
Your Tundra motor is no way near the same as your buddy's 4 banger. The 2UZFE engine in your Tundra is extremely easy on oil. They are also some of the lowest wearing motors according the used oil analysis on this site. You won't have problems with sludge on conventional at 5K OCIs on this motor. I've put cheapo Chevron 5W30 in it and it performed extremely well.
I have the same motor, I do about the same mileage as you and I do use a synthetic. I will change it once a year at about 5K (I was changing it at 6 months but it was really a waste). Even I will admit that the Chevron Supreme 5W30 would have made it a year. I just wanted to put synthetic in it because I felt that it was going in for a year and I have very severe service (5 mile trips, 4 times a day. The engine oil never gets to temp - ever!).
My oil of choice is the Amsoil 0W30 series 2000 oil. But, honestly, ANY oil is going to do just fine in that motor. Don't worry about sludge, it's not even close to the same technology as the 4 cylinders.
Oh and
Any oil will work well in the 4.7L.
I recommend synthetics by habit.
There is nothing wrong with the wallyworld synthetic.
I prefer M1 since most UOA shows excellent long term worthiness, TBN retention, and Toyotas seem to do well with M1.
Since you are changing the oil once a year, look at the toyolexus 4.7/4.3/4.0 UOAs. Some are extended. Most are excellent regardless of oil used.
I not a big fan of yearly oil changes. Intervals should be time(install engine timer), fuel used(total gallons used), or mileage(least accurate) based. A UOA at the end of 6-9 months will give you the data you need to know. Too may people take too many short trips and that will kill any oil too quickly, even if the odometer doesn't show too many miles. You can UOA without an oil change. If it looks bad, you know that you'll have to start more frequent maintenance. If it looks good, then run the oil longer.
And, the 4.7 has room for bigger oil filters. The FL1a/PH8a/L30001 adds oil and filtration capacity which will help that extended OCI.
I recommend synthetics by habit.
There is nothing wrong with the wallyworld synthetic.
I prefer M1 since most UOA shows excellent long term worthiness, TBN retention, and Toyotas seem to do well with M1.
Since you are changing the oil once a year, look at the toyolexus 4.7/4.3/4.0 UOAs. Some are extended. Most are excellent regardless of oil used.
I not a big fan of yearly oil changes. Intervals should be time(install engine timer), fuel used(total gallons used), or mileage(least accurate) based. A UOA at the end of 6-9 months will give you the data you need to know. Too may people take too many short trips and that will kill any oil too quickly, even if the odometer doesn't show too many miles. You can UOA without an oil change. If it looks bad, you know that you'll have to start more frequent maintenance. If it looks good, then run the oil longer.
And, the 4.7 has room for bigger oil filters. The FL1a/PH8a/L30001 adds oil and filtration capacity which will help that extended OCI.
UnDummy,
You make a good point.
Wardawg,
If I could offer another suggestion. If you really want to go all the way and do a Used Oil Analysis, but don't want to go nuts researching and understanding what all the numbers mean, I would highly suggest our resident oil professional Terry Dyson. For a fee he will run a sample and give you top notch analysis and recommendations. I don't want to quote prices, but you can go to his website at Dyson Analysis
He will hold your hand and give you advice on the right combination of air filter, oil filter, and oil for your specific vehicle and driving habits based on a scientific used oil analysis. He really is top notch, and I learned a ton from him. I don't think there is a person here on this board that has used his services that didn't think his services were exceptional. And for what you get, it is a bargain. He is a swell guy too
You make a good point.
Wardawg,
If I could offer another suggestion. If you really want to go all the way and do a Used Oil Analysis, but don't want to go nuts researching and understanding what all the numbers mean, I would highly suggest our resident oil professional Terry Dyson. For a fee he will run a sample and give you top notch analysis and recommendations. I don't want to quote prices, but you can go to his website at Dyson Analysis
He will hold your hand and give you advice on the right combination of air filter, oil filter, and oil for your specific vehicle and driving habits based on a scientific used oil analysis. He really is top notch, and I learned a ton from him. I don't think there is a person here on this board that has used his services that didn't think his services were exceptional. And for what you get, it is a bargain. He is a swell guy too
WarDawg lots of oils come and go with the wind it seems sometimes. Since the Mobil 1 amd Castrol Syntec lines have been in available Pennzoil has offered many different synthetics. You should choose the Mobil or the Castrol because the next time API revises the spec Pennzoil will probably replace Platinum with another line.
Any of them will work just fine in this engine. My prefference would be for M1EP (gold colored cap)we know that it is approved for anual oil changes in spite of the milage up to 15,000.My second choice would be PP only because it has been spoken of highly by Terry Dyson. I do not think we have seen any UOA in your engine from PP and we have not seen how it behaves in long time frame OCI's.
Mobil 1 EP 5w30
Supertech Synthetic. Why spend more when it has shown excellent uoa's?
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=747501
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=748242
Every single recent uoa of st synthewtic i could find looks pretty darn good.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=747501
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=748242
Every single recent uoa of st synthewtic i could find looks pretty darn good.
Pretty much anything.
Great choice! No sense spending more money for an oil that is also made with "synthetic fluids".
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