- Joined
- Oct 19, 2025
- Messages
- 229
Menards online is at least for the moment showing quaker state FS for 18.66$ with the 11% rebate
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Walmart oil prices - Ah!
- Thread starter kitchbow
- Start date
I know many people that did run out but that was because others stocked up (hoarded?). I was able to shop at different hour and "took advantage" of getting what I could BUT used that to help friends, family, co-workers, fellow firefighters. They paid whatever that store price was and I delivered it to their house.
Some I know bought the bidet seats, some jumped in shower with handheld shower head.
Actually wasn’t.
60% of TP is the stuff you buy at Walmart.
40% is those giant rolls you see in public toilets.
The two supply chains don’t mix. Completely different manufacturers. Everyone staying home caused the issue.
The oil gets delivered from your local Walmart. Zero chance of counterfeit oil.
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2025
- Messages
- 228
Great minds think alike, we posted the same thing at the same time
Have you ever considered the detrimental effects of extending your oil changes? All this nonsense of using EPA driven reminder systems in vehicles and other lies to extend oil life are unrealistic. These 7k-10 oil chances on a short trip vehicle are just asking for problems down the road. And with a lot of direct injection vehicles carbon buildup and excessive oil consumption are common.
How about instead of so called "data" using some common sense that you were born with?
My small vehicle (Honda Passport) is a daily driver with a lot short trips. I do oil changes between 3k - 5k, 10K diff fluid, 25K transmission fluid, biannual brake fluid/coolant and just completed a timing belt kit/valve check. While I was in there I found a leaking motor mount and changed it out as well.
My Data? At about 60K (just shy of me replacing my timing belt) I had my local shop do a bore scope to check for carbon buildup and possible walnut blasting. Also did a leak down and compression check. I had less than 3% loss and compression check showed 187 psi on highest cylinder (front of engine) and 183 psi on hottest cylinder. I also had them do a complete diagnostic to see if I overlooked anything. For a cost of less than 250 bucks well worth it to find out my motor is in excellent health.
The shop that did my work sees these vehicles day in day out and technician commented on my vehicle being the best of the best regarding engine health. That's data enough for me.
My L5P equipped truck is used for towing mostly and long trips. It's pretty new. Did my first oil change at 188 miles then again along with fuel filter at 2K miles, then 5K complementary oil change at dealer. 5K oil and fuel filter changes moving forward will be my routine. at 10K Ill do both diffs and transfer case then again along with transmission service at 25K. Then every 25K for all of them. Of course biannual brake fluid/coolant service regardless of miles.
Point being I tend to keep my vehicles for hundreds of thousand of miles. And for a cost of less than 50 bucks for service it's cheap insurance.
Patman
Staff member
I switched from doing 3000 mile oil changes over twenty years ago and calculated that I’ve saved at least $3000 by doing this. I haven’t had any engine troubles ever. That’s good enough for me to know that I’m doing it right. I follow the oil life monitors in my cars. The manufacturers put a lot of research into them and I have also done used oil analysis to verify the safety of those higher intervals. I drive a lot and don’t want to be under my cars every 3000 miles anymore. That’s a lot of wasted time, especially since these days I need to drive 90 minutes round trip for each oil change I do (I live in a condo and so I have to change my oil in my father’s driveway)
Those of you who just blindly stick with 3000 miles because Jiffy Lube has drilled it into your heads for decades, enjoy your lighter wallets. Because that’s really all that it’s accomplishing.
Your “data” of that shop telling you how good your engine is actually means nothing. You really don’t know if it could have had the exact same results if you had been doing 6 to 10k oil changes.
You should really add up how much more it costs you over hundreds of thousands of miles with doing shorter intervals. With the rising costs of oil and filters that number becomes even more eye opening
Agreed. . . I've always been conservative with oil changes, even with OLM's, but this possible shortage may induce me to follow the OLM in the truck going forward. I've also backed it up with a recent baseline Blackstone test that indicated that the OLM was tracking appropriately for my use. If nothing else it should be an interesting experiment, and possibly will make me a TRUE believer in the OLM.I switched from doing 3000 mile oil changes over twenty years ago and calculated that I’ve saved at least $3000 by doing this. I haven’t had any engine troubles ever. That’s good enough for me to know that I’m doing it right. I follow the oil life monitors in my cars. The manufacturers put a lot of research into them and I have also done used oil analysis to verify the safety of those higher intervals. I drive a lot and don’t want to be under my cars every 3000 miles anymore. That’s a lot of wasted time, especially since these days I need to drive 90 minutes round trip for each oil change I do (I live in a condo and so I have to change my oil in my father’s driveway)
Those of you who just blindly stick with 3000 miles because Jiffy Lube has drilled it into your heads for decades, enjoy your lighter wallets. Because that’s really all that it’s accomplishing.
Your “data” of that shop telling you how good your engine is actually means nothing. You really don’t know if it could have had the exact same results if you had been doing 6 to 10k oil changes.
You should really add up how much more it costs you over hundreds of thousands of miles with doing shorter intervals. With the rising costs of oil and filters that number becomes even more eye opening
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2026
- Messages
- 31
I asked Amsoil what the shelf life of their oil was. The Amsoil tech rep told me 2 years.
If I follow MM in my Accord which uses oil, technically I might not need to change it, just reset it. I use about 1/2qt every 1300 miles, for 6 years and 80k. That means every 7500 miles I've added 3 quarts I've done all the PCV and cleaning things (except piston soak), currently on 3rd VRP run to try that.
Many subject to use, testing, experience and what keeps us happy. Most oil and vehicle manufactures give a mileage with the caveat of "or 1 year". Road warrior users, Fleet users, it can often be tracked very well on what and extra 1-2k miles provides in other maintenance costs.
If I did as many miles as @Patman and others, longer OCI may be a huge benefit. In my vehicles, 5k is 1-3 changes per year depending which one. I do think that MM's have gotten better and are great for those that are not car people. At least they get a display reminder that it needs to be done. My neighbor ignores the 5k intervals on his 4Runner and just does when he feels like it after that and has some time. The 2 Hyundai's I maintain is straight time/miles setting and you can change that on display. No adjusting for drives.
The MM in father-in-laws Renegade is supposed to adjust. His was always about 7500 miles but he does a lot of idling. Started burning oil early and 82k got a new motor under warranty. I now keep that at 4k interval with what I consider to be good oils I would use in any of my vehicles.
Many subject to use, testing, experience and what keeps us happy. Most oil and vehicle manufactures give a mileage with the caveat of "or 1 year". Road warrior users, Fleet users, it can often be tracked very well on what and extra 1-2k miles provides in other maintenance costs.
If I did as many miles as @Patman and others, longer OCI may be a huge benefit. In my vehicles, 5k is 1-3 changes per year depending which one. I do think that MM's have gotten better and are great for those that are not car people. At least they get a display reminder that it needs to be done. My neighbor ignores the 5k intervals on his 4Runner and just does when he feels like it after that and has some time. The 2 Hyundai's I maintain is straight time/miles setting and you can change that on display. No adjusting for drives.
The MM in father-in-laws Renegade is supposed to adjust. His was always about 7500 miles but he does a lot of idling. Started burning oil early and 82k got a new motor under warranty. I now keep that at 4k interval with what I consider to be good oils I would use in any of my vehicles.
I emailed Amsoil tech support last year, and they told me a shelf life of 5 years sealed, and two years opened. Same as Mobil. This was for the SS 0W-40. I'm looking at the email right now.
Valvoline says there is no shelf life when "properly stored," but that agitation may be necessary.
SOPUS says four years for sealed oil, and offered no other guidance.
Well, I ordered 2 jugs of Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 0W-20 from Walmart then cancelled. I ended up getting 2 for the same price before Amazon S&S. After discount and tax it was under $50 plus 5% on Amazon card. Seemed like the better deal. I have no need for this oil in the next 3 years but figured, what the hell. I have always wanted to try it. I still have 2 jugs of Castrol EDGE to get through. They are older than my VRP so I am left wondering if I should use those first before I get to the others. We'll see...
As a long-time Honda owner, I've found the OLM is merely an algorithm. The spoiler is low initial viscosity oils, direct injection, turbo charged small displacement engines and a lot of typically short trips. On my wife's 2020 Honda CRV EX-L 1.5t, using Mobil1 EP 0w-20, I took an oil sample at 2,200 miles. UOA showed 5% oil dilution, viscosity thinned significantly below grade, all this with the OLM showing 70% oil life remaining. The OLM tells you NOTHING about actual oil condition. I begin using Mobil1 5W-30 EP and 4k changes as long as we had that car. Yes, I learned that Blackstone Labs testing method for oil dilution is not accurate, however when my dealers Honda Certified Master Technician tells me that virtually every CRV with the 1.5t comes in for service using the MM with oil level high on the stick and strong fuel smell, that's a big warning flag. All engines using DI will have some degree of dilution, you just need to be proactive with knowledge and willing to not assume you can trust the OLM unless you do at least occasional UOA's. Yes, I am a Toptier user and believe it does make a difference. JMHO.
Patman
Staff member
That’s far too short, the actual shelf life is much longer
Just bought a set. Now to decide if it goes in the lawnmowers or a vehicle that's using 5w.
Japanese
$50 site donor 2026
Two years when the oil is already in the engine.
Second page, last paragraph of left column Service Life:
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2883.pdf
"As a general service guideline, the maximum drain interval for Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil should not exceed 5,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first."
