Wagner E-coated drums are no longer coated on the inside

[slacktide_bitog]

I ordered Wagner coated drums because they were supposed to be coated on the inside, but the ones I received weren't coated on the inside! They came from Factory Motor Parts in Concord, NC.

Non-coated drums will rust in hours! If I install these drums, they will freeze to the hub overnight

If you don't need the drums to be coated on the inside, get DFC drums instead, as they claim to be machined on drum-specific machines. In fact, the Wagner drums I got have a rough finish on the outside, almost like DFC's drums

So it seems now the only drums still coated on the inside are Powerstop

Here's what I ordered

Here's what I got:

 

[JeffKeryk]

Dumb question: Can you coat them? Quality is becoming a DIY deal nowadays.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Dumb question: Can you coat them? Quality is becoming a DIY deal nowadays.

I don't know how well that will actually hold up

 

[Snagglefoot]

Yes, I’ve seen this. Not only are they not coated they’re not even machined on part of the inside. You can try an anti-rust brand of engine paint.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Yes, I’ve seen this. Not only are they not coated they’re not even machined are part of the inside. You can try an anti-rust brand of engine paint.

I found Rust-Oleum engine paint that might work, but it's too cold to paint now, as they say it has to be 50-90-F. It has been 40 or below recently, and it probably won't get any warmer for awhile

 

[Hall]

I don't know how well that will actually hold up

Get the proper paint, put on multiple coats, and bake it.

Not only are they not coated they’re not even machined are part of the inside.

It's a waste of labor, material, and tools to machine surfaces that aren't critical for fit. Cast surfaces will rust slower than machined surfaces too.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I am not trying to be snide, but your likely not getting coated anything for $25.

Are OEM still available?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Too late to edit the OP, but yes, I did my homework and looked at Amazon reviews on Wagner coated drums, and ALL of them DID have coated inner hats! Some Ebay listings are open box items, and for those, they show you photos of the drums, and they were ALL coated on the inside.

Get the proper paint, put on multiple coats, and bake it.

It's a waste of labor, material, and tools to machine surfaces that aren't critical for fit. Cast surfaces will rust slower than machined surfaces too.

What paint is that? Would caliper paint work? Or the rustoleum engine enamel?

I am not trying to be snide, but your likely not getting coated anything for $25.

Are OEM still available?

OEM drums may or may not be available, and if they are, they're $100 each

 

[SC Maintenance]

OEM drums may or may not be available, and if they are, they're $100 each

Unless thats all the budget you have - so worth it. I hate drum brakes and I hate replacing them more.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Unless thats all the budget you have - so worth it. I hate drum brakes and I hate replacing them more.

If I were to return the Wagner drums, I'd get Powerstop coated drums, which should still be coated on the inside. Those would be $100 for both, including shipping.

I also found Uquality coated drums on Amazon for about the same price as Powerstop

 

[slacktide_bitog]

If I return them, I'll have to pay return shipping and then buy the Powerstop or UQuality drums, which are close to $100, less the $40 I'll get back from RA (after taking the return shipping out of my refund), so still $50 or so net. They cost almost twice as much as the Wagner drums

I could paint the drums I already have, if I can find a paint suitable for cold weather. There might be one that works, so $20 for the paint.

And of course, I could wait 3 months when it gets warmer to paint them, then I can use cheaper paint (most of them require 50F or higher, and it's in the 30s now)

Would anti-seize work? Like the stuff in the plastic jar with the brush in the cap? I'd brush it on the outer lip and the inner surface where it contacts the hub and wheel. I don't think any of it would get on the shoes

Hopefully I'll hear back from Wagner. I asked them why the got so cheap and stopped coating the inner drum surface

Unless thats all the budget you have - so worth it. I hate drum brakes and I hate replacing them more.

The OE drums are NOT worth it! Also, they won't be coated on the inside like the Powerstop or UQuality drums

 

[PF52]

Could you use something like Fluid Film or Surface Shield on them? I suppose it depends if the stuff might eventually migrate to the braking surface or not. I don't know what kind of temperatures you're supposed to spray that stuff at (Surface Shield has no mention of temperatures on the can) but you could always bring them inside and spray them in the basement if the smell doesn't bother you (you'll spend the next few days wondering why the house smells like manure).

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Could you use something like Fluid Film or Surface Shield on them? I suppose it depends if the stuff might eventually migrate to the braking surface or not. I don't know what kind of temperatures you're supposed to spray that stuff at (Surface Shield has no mention of temperatures on the can) but you could always bring them inside and spray them in the basement if the smell doesn't bother you (you'll spend the next few days wondering why the house smells like manure).

I'd prefer not to spray oil on the brakes

Anti seize is thicker, so less of a chance of it getting on the shoes. If I did use some kind of oil, there are enough products that aren't a spray can and could be applied cold.

And of course, paint dries

 

[PF52]

I'd prefer not to spray oil on the brakes

Anti seize is thicker, so less of a chance of it getting on the shoes. If I did use some kind of oil, there are enough products that aren't a spray can and could be applied cold.

And of course, paint dries

Yeah that would be my worry too. I'm not sure how long the Surface Shield needs to "cure" before the risk of having it sling everywhere goes away.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Being in the Salt Belt, I always paint the drums with engine paint, and use anti-seize where it mates to the hub. They last forever using this method.

 

[Hall]

And of course, I could wait 3 months when it gets warmer to paint them, then I can use cheaper paint (most of them require 50F or higher, and it's in the 30s now)

Do you have a garage, basement, shed ?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Being in the Salt Belt, I always paint the drums with engine paint, and use anti-seize where it mates to the hub. They last forever using this method.

Yeah, that's what I would do, but the paints require temperatures to be 50-90F, and it's in the 30s and will probably not go above 50 for months

Do you have a garage, basement, shed ?

I have a basement, but no garage or shed

As a last resort, I could use Low Odor paint, but they still want a well-ventilated area, but if you open the windows, it will get cold below 50F

 

[Hall]

As a last resort, I could use Low Odor paint, but they still want a well-ventilated area, but if you open the windows, it will get cold below 50F

You're really overthinking this. Crack a basement window and get a fan to blow any fumes out.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

I figured out a better idea

Put them in a plastic bin or styrofoam cooler or insulated bag, maybe some of those hot hands warmers, and close it! I can use one of a koozies or can insulator for the paint itself

 

[lbhsbz]

Biggest reason behind the insides not being coated anymore (at least e-coated) is the e-coat line is a pretty big operation. Most of the factories that offer e-coat require the part be sent off to another location for e-coating, then come back to get finish machined.

Even if the e-coat does occur in-house....it still requires multiple extra operations, the most problematic of which is re-fixturing and machining the friction surface while NOT machining other datum features after the coating process...this creates concentricity errors on a drum.

Ideally, we want the friction surface, the hub mating surface, and the center pilot hole all machined in the same fixturing, so they all end up with the correct relationship.

The non-coated drum, while some still might machine them "wrong" in multiple fixturings, have a better chance of being right.

It's also a much more cost effective coating process, but not as durable....which is only really an issue when we're dealing with a vented brake rotor, since it's not really possible to spray coat 100% inside the vanes, while e-coat is an immersion process which DOES coat 100% of the part.