VWB for Turbo application!

[SR5]

To me GDI + Turbo = Full synthetic oil.
You have fuel dilution and high temps to deal with.

If you want a low Ca oil, that's fine, I would run Castrol Edge 5W30.
According to PQIA it the has lowest calcium levels ( ~ 750 ppm) of all the synthetics they tested. The average is about 2000 ppm for Ca, so this is much lower. Of course the Castrol Edge makes up for it with higher Mg levels, but if you are chasing low Ca, then this has it.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/castroledgesyn.htm

 

[wemay]

3,000 mile OCI? Use the conventional


1. Hyundai requires SM/GF-4 so any SN/GF-5 is an upgrade.

2. Hyundai uses conventional SN/GF-5 as bulk in all its vehicles.

3. There has been no widespread turbo failure or heavily deposited engine issues reported.

4. Any reference to ACEA in U.S. manuals is meant for Euro Hyundai long drain intervals per HyundaiUSA. If not, the dealership would be required to use it.

http://www.gf-5.com/news_and_events/additional-key-additives/

From LINK above:
Wear Protection
Lubrizol has tested our ILSAC GF-5 engine oil additives in the most demanding real world driving in the heat of the deserts of Arizona and the congestion of Las Vegas. Our million-mile plus field trails clearly shows ILSAC GF-5 products are up to the challenge of providing outstanding protection from engine wear. All current and newly introduced engine technologies were tested including the latest GDI (gasoline direct injection) twin turbo charged engine in the 2010 Ford Flex. ILSAC GF-5 will keep your engine running like new and provide protection from wear no matter if you drive an older car or the latest high tech vehicle.

...Many vehicle manufacturers are using turbo charging to improve fuel economy while maintaining or even improving performance. Turbo chargers are powered by your vehicle exhaust which means they are exposed to very high temperatures. Without properly formulated engine oils such as ILSAC GF-5, this high temperature can lead to coking deposits of charred oil in the turbo. Lubrizol’s detergent and antioxidant system maintains cleanliness of critical turbocharger parts under the most demanding conditions to maintain performance and longer engine life.

 

[artificialist]

I would not be using conventional because I have seen what happens in turbo engines. The engine might not develop major sludge, but there will be significant varnish. This happens to people who change that oil every 3000 miles.

That is what happens in Volvo turbo engines, and those are the turbo engine I see the most.

I would use Valvoline MST, since it has lower SAPS and calcium when compared to other syns. Also, having a 5w40 viscosity may be better in a turbo engine: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2405398/1

 

[donnyj08]

OP run synpower and change it once a year. Additive package isn't greatly different and the base oil is superior.

The syn will hold up for 6k miles even in the DI and Turbo engine.

VWB is certainly a good route, however.

 

[Bailey28]

I am set on the 3K OCI. If it were a port injected engine that cleans the intake valves each cycle and didn't have the fuel dilution of GDI, I would entertain running the OCI to 6K miles on a synthetic.

If research shows that the intake valves gather deposits from used engine oil, and that deposits exponentially increase from the 4k mark, I think it is wise to give the engine fresh oil every 3-3.5k.

I just cant see spending the extra $10 on synthetic just to drain it in 3K. I'm not worried that any oil is worn out at 3K, I am worried about the old oil contributing to intake valve deposits. This and the LSPI issue is why I chose VWB with 1,600 calcium.

 

[Swift101]

Honestly I think you have nothing to worry about using an oil with higher calcium levels. I would use a full synthetic oil if I was in your place, I use Castrol or M1 0W-40 in my turbo Sonata.

Although some members don't agree with my choice I feel more comfortable using a slightly heavier oil. My typical OCI is 4-5k, about 60% highway/ 40% city. Call me crazy but the only engine failures I've heard of are with folks using 5W-30. I'm not saying that it was the direct cause the of the engine failures but It could have been a contributing factor.

Take a look for yourself, of course please disregard modded cars.

http://www.turbohkforums.com/f7-problems-issues

 

[stchman]

If you are a Valvoline oil fan, go with Valvoline SynPower and change once a year(every 6K). In the long run it will be less expensive and better for the engine.

VWB is $15 for a 5 quart jug and Synpower is $23 for a 5 quart jug at Walmart.

 

[Brons2]

I would prefer synthetic in a turbo application.

If you are so concerned about calcium, run a low SAPS synthetic such as M1 ESP.

 

[Nederlander75]

Originally Posted By: Bailey28
Can you re post the link? I can't find it now. Thanks!


Here you go. Specifically references lubricants of higher volatility.
http://archiwum.inig.pl/INST/nafta-g...2014-04-04.pdf

There's another one around here from Caltex discussing the superiority of conventional oils if I recall correctly. Some felt this one could be slanted though.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Originally Posted By: Bailey28
Can you re post the link? I can't find it now. Thanks!


Here you go. Specifically references lubricants of higher volatility.
http://archiwum.inig.pl/INST/nafta-g...2014-04-04.pdf

There's another one around here from Caltex discussing the superiority of conventional oils if I recall correctly. Some felt this one could be slanted though.


This is the Caltex one. I posted it earlier. For some reason i couldn't open yours.

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf

 

[Merkava_4]

Why not make it a 6000 mile / once a year OCI with some high end synthetic oil like Amsoil or Redline? You only have to buy it once a year......