Hyundai Veloster Turbo 1.6 GDI oil

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Olas, I don't think the Veloster Turbo has an EGR valve from what I've found. An OCC would be nice to separate vapors from the oil.
 
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BUT.. what about parking a hot car?

What does the owners manual say?
I used to have a Focus ST and there was no defined shut down procedure. But I always allowed it to idle for a minute or two before shutting it down if I had just performed a hard pull.
 
Check recent Castrol Edge UOAs. The Edge in black bottles at least is no longer a low-calcium oil; its levels are on par with Valvoline and SOPUS products. The extended drain gold bottle Edge may be different, but the only mass-market oil maker with low calcium in all synthetic products seems to be Mobil.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
It's not the DI that's causing deposits, and it's not the lack of a good air filter either.

Those IVDs are 100% attributable to dry soot from EGR mixing with oily vapour from PCV. Map out or block off EGR and VTE or VTA on the PCV, you'll never see another deposit ever again.


This study, page 14, disagrees with you.
 
Crimeny... now Castrol Edge has calcium on par with most other synthetics?

This is driving me nuts.. So the Amsoil test conducted in 2013 was relevant for only a few months until all of the companies change their blends??

If that's the case, how do we know what we are pouring into our engines every 6 months or so when we buy new oil with the same packaging?

This $hit changes like the wind.

I looked at Mobil 1 and when PQIA tested it in January of 2013 it had 1,161 Calcium. Going to the M1 site it doesn't list Calcium in the PDS but it does state the 5w30 is an HTHS 3.1.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bailey28
If that's the case, how do we know what we are pouring into our engines every 6 months or so when we buy new oil with the same packaging?

For the majority of drivers/engines it makes no difference.

And for those that are really curious, there is always the option of doing a VOA.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Bailey28
Crimeny... now Castrol Edge has calcium on par with most other synthetics?

This is driving me nuts.. So the Amsoil test conducted in 2013 was relevant for only a few months until all of the companies change their blends??

If that's the case, how do we know what we are pouring into our engines every 6 months or so when we buy new oil with the same packaging?

This $hit changes like the wind.

I looked at Mobil 1 and when PQIA tested it in January of 2013 it had 1,161 Calcium. Going to the M1 site it doesn't list Calcium in the PDS but it does state the 5w30 is an HTHS 3.1.


I agree. But maybe it doesn't matter: Ford has probably adopted GTDI technology as aggressively as any manufacturer and its MotorCraft synblend is neither low calcium nor low Noack. One would like to think if it really mattered they would have gone in a different direction.
 
Originally Posted By: BitterShard
Originally Posted By: Olas
It's not the DI that's causing deposits, and it's not the lack of a good air filter either.

Those IVDs are 100% attributable to dry soot from EGR mixing with oily vapour from PCV. Map out or block off EGR and VTE or VTA on the PCV, you'll never see another deposit ever again.


This study, page 14, disagrees with you.


I disagree with that study for the reasons that I don't think the test was carried out correctly to simulate real world. There are varying engine types that suffer differently, varying conditions that determine the amount of oil that passes through the PCV system, watch this entire video Catch can in use because I don't think they tried enough RPM variations. There are different qualities and configurations of catch can. The length of the pipe from the tappet cover even makes a difference because oil can condense in the pipe and flow 'as a liquid' into the catch can...which is good. I've collected 1/2 a teaspoon of oil in 500km with mine. I think the test wasn't carried out long enough to conclusively prove that correctly collecting oil from the PCV system doesn't affect inlet valve carbon build up.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Bailey28
If that's the case, how do we know what we are pouring into our engines every 6 months or so when we buy new oil with the same packaging?

For the majority of drivers/engines it makes no difference.

And for those that are really curious, there is always the option of doing a VOA.
smile.gif




Bingo!
 
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
... I don't think they tried enough RPM variations.


They varied between 6 tests until they found "The lower engine load, the more deposit formed"

Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
There are different qualities and configurations of catch can. The length of the pipe from the tappet cover even makes a difference because oil can condense in the pipe and flow 'as a liquid' into the catch can...which is good. I've collected 1/2 a teaspoon of oil in 500km with mine. I think the test wasn't carried out long enough to conclusively prove that correctly collecting oil from the PCV system doesn't affect inlet valve carbon build up.


They tried a "catch can" that removed 100% of the PCV system oil. "By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines" to outside the engine and ".. intake port was sealed by caps"

The only "oil from the PCV system" that would "affect the value carbon build up" would therefore have to come from outside the engine.

As far as running long enough, they pulled the valves and cylinders after each test and weighed them. The numbers they reported are in milligrams (0.000035 ounces).
 
Originally Posted By: BitterShard
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
... I don't think they tried enough RPM variations.


They varied between 6 tests until they found "The lower engine load, the more deposit formed"

Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
There are different qualities and configurations of catch can. The length of the pipe from the tappet cover even makes a difference because oil can condense in the pipe and flow 'as a liquid' into the catch can...which is good. I've collected 1/2 a teaspoon of oil in 500km with mine. I think the test wasn't carried out long enough to conclusively prove that correctly collecting oil from the PCV system doesn't affect inlet valve carbon build up.


They tried a "catch can" that removed 100% of the PCV system oil. "By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines" to outside the engine and ".. intake port was sealed by caps"

The only "oil from the PCV system" that would "affect the value carbon build up" would therefore have to come from outside the engine.

As far as running long enough, they pulled the valves and cylinders after each test and weighed them. The numbers they reported are in milligrams (0.000035 ounces).




+1 BitterShard.
 
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Use Mobil 1 5W-30 with confidence.


Geese some people will just shout out their favorite brand in any and all situations like radical paparazzi.
Not the right choice this application. Maybe m1 HDDO. Fuel dilution can wipe m1 5w30 out in a couple thousand miles or less. His car is a turbo di. A turbo tearing up fuel diluted oil is very bad.

Op should consider redline 5w30 or 40 or t6 or valvoline racing 10w40. I dunno about the low calcium though.
 
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Use Mobil 1 5W-30 with confidence.


Geese some people will just shout out their favorite brand in any and all situations like radical paparazzi.
Not the right choice this application. Maybe m1 HDDO. Fuel dilution can wipe m1 5w30 out in a couple thousand miles or less. His car is a turbo di. A turbo tearing up fuel diluted oil is very bad.

Op should consider redline 5w30
or 40 or t6 or valvoline racing 10w40. I dunno about the low calcium though.


Please explain why Red Line 5W-30 would alleviate dilution better than M1 5W-30?
 
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Originally Posted By: BitterShard
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
... I don't think they tried enough RPM variations.


They varied between 6 tests until they found "The lower engine load, the more deposit formed"

Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
There are different qualities and configurations of catch can. The length of the pipe from the tappet cover even makes a difference because oil can condense in the pipe and flow 'as a liquid' into the catch can...which is good. I've collected 1/2 a teaspoon of oil in 500km with mine. I think the test wasn't carried out long enough to conclusively prove that correctly collecting oil from the PCV system doesn't affect inlet valve carbon build up.


They tried a "catch can" that removed 100% of the PCV system oil. "By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines" to outside the engine and ".. intake port was sealed by caps"

The only "oil from the PCV system" that would "affect the value carbon build up" would therefore have to come from outside the engine.

As far as running long enough, they pulled the valves and cylinders after each test and weighed them. The numbers they reported are in milligrams (0.000035 ounces).




Who cares if they found one condition in THEIR test that found the greatest condition of carbon formation! If you checked out the video I posted, the oil presented itself through RPM changes. Does their test cover all engine types and conditions?

Ok they bypassed the catch can entirely. Why did they bother installing a catch can if they were going to by pass it anyway? Did they connect a vacuum pump to evacuate the crankcase at the same inlet vacuum as the engine designer intended. If not I'd imagine there would have been a build up of blow by gases in the crank case which could have altered the out come. Seems counter productive and a bit dodgy if you ask me.

I'll keep my catch can thanks as I believe they help to prevent/reduce inlet valve carbon deposits. I can report that my car feels more responsive and I put it down to the fact I'm seeing the full 98 octane as the fuel is not getting diluted by the oily crud mixed with the inlet air.
 
We can each adopt one of the many theories presented as a way to band-aid any IVD issue, if one exists. No one would be right or wrong.

Lot's of theories out there...

*Using Top Tier fuel and sticking with OEM oil recomendations
*Using GrpIV oils only
*Using low SAPs or Mid SAPs
*Using low TEOST GrpIII
*Using low Noack GrpIII at OEM recommended oci
*Using low Noack GrpIII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using GrpII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using oils containing the least amount of calcium additives (T-GDI)
*Use of Catch-Cans


http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/

http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turb...ig Hurdle.pdf

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf

2015 article:
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2015/...n-engines-.html

BTW: Almost every GDI or T-GDI shows some dilution. I have yet to see a UOA pattern where excessive wear metals increase as a result.
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Use Mobil 1 5W-30 with confidence.


Geese some people will just shout out their favorite brand in any and all situations like radical paparazzi.
Not the right choice this application. Maybe m1 HDDO. Fuel dilution can wipe m1 5w30 out in a couple thousand miles or less. His car is a turbo di. A turbo tearing up fuel diluted oil is very bad.

Op should consider redline 5w30
or 40 or t6 or valvoline racing 10w40. I dunno about the low calcium though.


Please explain why Red Line 5W-30 would alleviate dilution better than M1 5W-30?


I dunno, ask Terry Dyson. He's the one that told me to ditch it because it wasn't any good for fuel dilution in my wrx. He suggested the redline and it didn't shear outa grade like the other.
Ester base i suppose.
 
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Use Mobil 1 5W-30 with confidence.


Geese some people will just shout out their favorite brand in any and all situations like radical paparazzi.
Not the right choice this application. Maybe m1 HDDO. Fuel dilution can wipe m1 5w30 out in a couple thousand miles or less. His car is a turbo di. A turbo tearing up fuel diluted oil is very bad.

Op should consider redline 5w30
or 40 or t6 or valvoline racing 10w40. I dunno about the low calcium though.


Please explain why Red Line 5W-30 would alleviate dilution better than M1 5W-30?


I dunno, ask Terry Dyson. He's the one that told me to ditch it because it wasn't any good for fuel dilution in my wrx. He suggested the redline and it didn't shear outa grade like the other.
Ester base i suppose.


It didn't shear out of grade because it has no VII's and is also massively heavier in the first place having a HTHS similar to most xw-40 oils.

It isn't the oil's ability to "handle the fuel" so to speak but rather the fact that it started out much heavier in the first place and also has nothing to shear in it.
 
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