VWB for Turbo application!

Pennzoil motor oil
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Bailey28

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New 2015 Hyundai Veloster 1.6 GDI Turbo. 2,000 miles on the factory fill now.

At 2,500 miles I plan on changing the oil and using a new Hyundai factory filter.

Here is what I am looking at and why for oil:

Valvoline 5w30 conventional. Why? Consider this:

I drive the car on weekends only, and I go about 6,000 miles per year. Oil changes will be once every 6 months. 3K OCI's.

I discovered many research papers being written about LSPI, and how calcium levels plays a major role in the occurrence of LSPI events. In other research papers and articles, engineers believe the oil in GDI cars needs to be changed more frequently to prevent intake valve deposits.

After looking at the 5w30 PQIA comparisons, I think Valvoline conventional with its low calcium levels and excellent used oil analysis here on bitog, would serve well with the 6 month OCI's and low calcium it should minimize any LSPI events. I see no reason to waste more money on synthetic when I am going to change it every 3,000 miles.
 
Re LSPI, better cooling and higher octane will help but not cure a feature inherent to the design.

Re calcium - its only a problem if you burn considerable amounts of oil.

Re valve deposits, map out/delete PCV and EGR.
 
No harm in using Valvoline conventional, I think Valvoline is one of the most underrated oils on here. But I think you're over analyzing the whole calcium thing. But like I said, there's no harm in using Valvoline conventional for your vehicle. Unless the manufacturer specifically says to use synthetic, use the Valvoline with confidence because it's a very good oil.
 
Sources?

If your weekend trips are longer trips, with the engine running hard and the oil staying at temperature for long periods of time, then I'd use a good synthetic and change it per the OM (disregarding time.)
 
Guys, I'm not modifying the car in ANY way. No catch cans, no tune out the egr (has no egr), no PCV removal, etc. Two reasons, one the car warranty is 10 years and Hyundai is very strict on warranty coverage.

Second, the same studies I am referring to also state that a catch can and/or removal of the PCV system did not increase or decrease intake valve build up. I know, I was shocked when I read this too...I've seen the yucky goo that ends up in the catch cans. But apparently they are saying the goo doesn't contribute to valve deposit build up, oil in-service time does.

The biggest point the studies made were to change your oil more frequently due to particle contamination.

I found multiple sources of information regarding LSPI in GDI engines just by searching with google.

The Veloster does not have an oil life monitor. It is up to the consumer to change the oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: sicko
No harm in using Valvoline conventional, I think Valvoline is one of the most underrated oils on here. But I think you're over analyzing the whole calcium thing. But like I said, there's no harm in using Valvoline conventional for your vehicle. Unless the manufacturer specifically says to use synthetic, use the Valvoline with confidence because it's a very good oil.


^^This
 
6month/3k is fine for any sn/gf5 convetional....just keep a weekly oil level and check.

I would use synthetic but your interval should work fine for conventional oil

Premium fuel should seriously the considered, unless you don't mind castration by knock sensor
 
I have tried 87 89 and 93 Octane. Strange thing, 87 Octane Sunoco runs the best. I get a tad more in the upper rpm range with 93, but fuel economy goes down by 1-2 mpg with 93. Low and midrange power is peppier with 87. Go figure...

I wouldn't mind running synthetic if I was confident in leaving the oil in for longer than 3k. Even Hyundai says 3,750 miles is the change interval on the turbo car.

If it were a port injected engine, I would do 5-7k oci and not worry about the valve deposits.
 
I am not a fan if dino in a turbo'd engine. Period.

My girlfriend has a turbo'd Volvo that does not "require" synthetic, but you should see how dino looks coming out of the engine.

An A3/B3 oil would be a good choice and even run it 5k+.
 
Originally Posted By: Bailey28
I have tried 87 89 and 93 Octane. Strange thing, 87 Octane Sunoco runs the best. I get a tad more in the upper rpm range with 93, but fuel economy goes down by 1-2 mpg with 93. Low and midrange power is peppier with 87. Go figure...

I wouldn't mind running synthetic if I was confident in leaving the oil in for longer than 3k. Even Hyundai says 3,750 miles is the change interval on the turbo car.

If it were a port injected engine, I would do 5-7k oci and not worry about the valve deposits.


If your engine's ECU can and does change timing and fueling to account for up to 91 or 93 octane, then I can't think of a single reason why 87 would perform better under anything other than low-load conditions. More timing and/or boost = more power. It might be that 87 provides more peaky power that may provide a false impression of being more powerful, though it isn't.

The initial tunes for my previous car, an '08 STI, were peaky and provided a violent onset of boost that knocked you back in your seat and felt amazing. Later revisions to the tune provided a more usable power band that was faster, but did not feel nearly as exiting. Even though I was accelerating more quickly, I kind of missed the peakiness of the earlier revision.
 
Yeah, Hyundai tuned these cars to be adaptable. In the face of logic, the Veloster actually makes more power on 87 down low. Check out this link. The dyno graph is the first post:

http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/velos...rent-fuels.html

I do like the "hit" that makes the car seem faster. On 87, the delivery is very smooth, and with 93 just a tad smoother. I keep it under 3,500 rpm most of the time. Highway rpm at 70 is 2,500.
 
I see nothing wrong with the OP's plan. As for the his sources...


http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf

http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/

Link info
Supercharged direct-injection engines are known to have a tendency toward abnormal combustion such as spontaneous low-speed pre-ignition and strong knock because they operate under low-speed, high-load conditions conducive to the occurrence of irregular combustion. It has been hypothesized that one cause of such abnormal combustion is the intrusion of engine oil droplets into the combustion chamber where they become a source of ignition. It has also been reported that varying the composition of engine oil additives can change susceptibility to abnormal combustion. However, the mechanisms involved are not well understood, and it is not clear how the individual components of engine oil additives affect autoignition.

In this study, abnormal combustion experiments were conducted to investigate the effect on autoignition of a calcium-based additive that is typically mixed into engine oil to act as a detergent. The experiments were performed with a single-cylinder 4-cycle gasoline engine using a primary reference fuel (PRF 50) into which the calcium salicylate (CaSa)-based detergent was mixed at various ratios.

The experimental results showed that autoignition occurred increasingly earlier with a higher concentration of the CaSa-based engine oil additive, giving rise to severe abnormal combustion. This indicates that the addition of a CaSa-based detergent to engine oil tends to promote autoignition and abnormal combustion.
_________________________
 
LOL... you'll be fine, im sure.

thumbsup2.gif
 
I linked an paper awhile back supporting the use of dino in GDI as it may create less deposits through its being more volatile and burning off the valves easier. Mazda also proved nearly 20 years ago water cooled turbos do not coke with conventional. So OP you will be fine if not better off with Valvoline 5w30 conventional.
 
Originally Posted By: Bailey28
Yeah, Hyundai tuned these cars to be adaptable. In the face of logic, the Veloster actually makes more power on 87 down low. Check out this link. The dyno graph is the first post:

http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/velos...rent-fuels.html

I do like the "hit" that makes the car seem faster. On 87, the delivery is very smooth, and with 93 just a tad smoother. I keep it under 3,500 rpm most of the time. Highway rpm at 70 is 2,500.


I appears that he used a tool that SIMULATES a dyno, but is not, in fact, an actual dynamometer, do I have that right?

Also:

1. Temperature was much higher for the 93 AKI run.

2. He did not record humidity, but stated a value of 60-80% RH

3. It appears that he's displaying and you're drawing conclusions from one run each. Or did I miss where the displayed graph is of multiple runs, all averaged?

So, based on the above I'm going to say that nothing can be inferred and that 87 AKI most likely does not produce more power at any load when compared to 93 AKI, all conditions equal.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am not a fan if dino in a turbo'd engine. Period.

My girlfriend has a turbo'd Volvo that does not "require" synthetic, but you should see how dino looks coming out of the engine.

An A3/B3 oil would be a good choice and even run it 5k+.



Could not agree more. The price of a good synthetic is so close to a good conventional - why not.
 
If ever an application cried out for a synthetic oil, it would be a GDI turbo.
I'd be more worried about heat resistance and NOACK than I would about calcium.
Valvoline conventional isn't stellar in either regard.
ATM, M1 after MIR is also cheaper than Valvoline conventional.
 
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