VW Oil Help, Again

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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Indeed it does I was simply looking in the wrong place.

So would this be better to use than the M1 0w40? While I was at the store I saw the M1 ESP 5W40. Maybe for my TSI engine it would be a good choice though is not VW approved.

Jeff


Define "better" ? GC has proven to be a shear-stable lubricant and has performed well in application from what I've heard. However, M1 0w-40 is a more modern, high VI formula that in its current SN iteration is also proving to be a shear stable and excellent performing product.


Better as is ability to stable over its use. I have M1 in my car now and will see.i do know PU 5w40 sheared to a 30w in 3000 miles will see if the M1 does the same thing. if it does I might as well usea 30w that at least stays consistent throughout its use.. Or are we assuming the M1 is VI and is a better choice because of that. Do we even know if M1 is still VI after its reformulation?

Jeff


VI = Viscosity Index
confused.gif


I think you are thinking PAO? The new (SN) M1 0w-40 has a lot of (shear stable) VISOM as part of its base, which is a GIII+ product. I'm interested to see how it holds up in your application. You can check out my UOA of the SM formula to see how it held up in my (fuel diluting like crazy) one.
 
Yes I thought you meant PAO. My next oil change will be at the dealer for my free castrol 5w40 but will have a sample of the M1 taken at that time of which the M1 will have about 5k miles on it. If it sheared to a 30w like the PU did then my in between oil change from the dealer I will try the GC


Jeff
 
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I'm certainly no expert, but here's my experience.
I have a 2011 GTI that I am doing annual oil changes on because I only do 7000km annually and so my one year interval comes up before my 15,000km interval does.

The first year was on ff (presumed Castrol 5W040). Things ran fine. For the first change, at the first annual interval, I put in CG. I thought it ran smoother and winter start up seemed easier.

Next year (last Sept) I decided to see how a boutique would work. So I put in Motul 0W-30. I can't say I see any difference. Perhaps the CG was a bit smoother.

Influenced by these forums I am putting in M1 OW-40 next month and will see. I am hoping for better engine protection from a more modern add pack. But what I really want is smooth winter start up. For that, GC served me really well.

I'll see how M1 does.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Indeed it does I was simply looking in the wrong place.

So would this be better to use than the M1 0w40? While I was at the store I saw the M1 ESP 5W40. Maybe for my TSI engine it would be a good choice though is not VW approved.

Jeff



For street driving (and considering that your car isn't tuned), I think those would all perform identically in service and should see minimal (if any) shearing.

It doesn't really matter if any of those drop viscosity slightly, as they all still meet VW 502 00.
 
I own a 2013 GTI myself and researched this issue before buying the car.

I looked into cleaning the valves when and if.
People who've done it say it's not that bad.
You need a triple square driver, can re-use the intake gasket but should get new injector O rings and need something for the valves like GM top engine cleaner. It's a cheap, sucky but doable process for the average shade tree mechanic.

I also wanna use the best oil to offset this as much as possible.
 
Or just keep the RPMs up 20+min every now and then and don't clean them at all.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Indeed it does I was simply looking in the wrong place.

So would this be better to use than the M1 0w40? While I was at the store I saw the M1 ESP 5W40. Maybe for my TSI engine it would be a good choice though is not VW approved.

Jeff





For street driving (and considering that your car isn't tuned), I think those would all perform identically in service and should see minimal (if any) shearing.

It doesn't really matter if any of those drop viscosity slightly, as they all still meet VW 502 00.


And if I get a tune one day then what? My previous car was a tuned Evo pushing 26psi at WOT and I ran redline 5w30 with no issues for years. These German cars are just blowing my mind with tedious pickinesd that I'm not used to.

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Or just keep the RPMs up 20+min every now and then and don't clean them at all.


My problem with this is where do the deposits go? Remember these are intake valves and gunk comes off guess where it's going?? So who is to say that won't be another possible problem in itself.

Jeff
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Is it all ethanol blended in your state, or are there other options? Obviously, the cleaner the fuel, the easier it is for one to use a low SAPS oil without having to do an OCI ridiculously early.

That's awful. They have nice, clean, low sulphur gas and then add a bunch of ethanol to ruin European extended OCIs. Go figure.
 
[/quote]
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
I own a 2013 GTI myself and researched this issue before buying the car.

I looked into cleaning the valves when and if.
People who've done it say it's not that bad.
You need a triple square driver, can re-use the intake gasket but should get new injector O rings and need something for the valves like GM top engine cleaner. It's a cheap, sucky but doable process for the average shade tree mechanic.

I also wanna use the best oil to offset this as much as possible.


I keep saying it but I will again.
Try a top end oiler I bought 2 of them. They are a can that holds mmo(or whatever fluid you put in it) and there is a control valve that limits the intake.
You hook it up to a vacuum line into the intake. It sucks in whatever fluid you've got in the can at a variable rate based on an adjustment screw.
I use mmo in mine. They keep the top end spotless,the light layer of oil seals the valves better,the mmo keeps the ring lands clean on the top side.
I love them. And because you control the flow there isn't any possible overdose creating vapour lock.
Its great with seafoam too. Turn the valve open and drive er hard.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX

And if I get a tune one day then what? My previous car was a tuned Evo pushing 26psi at WOT and I ran redline 5w30 with no issues for years. These German cars are just blowing my mind with tedious pickinesd that I'm not used to.

Jeff



They're actually less picky than you're making it out to be. There are at least five VW 502.00 oils available at every auto parts store:


Mobil 1 0w40
Castrol Edge 0w30
Castrol Edge 0w40
Castrol Edge 5w40
Valvoline SynPower 5w40


I think that any of those will stand up fine to a tuned motor, too. The dealer put Castrol Edge 5w40 in my Stasis/Revo-tuned S4 (430hp, about 30% more than stock) and it did okay for 5k. I wouldn't make it my first choice, but the changes were free.

If you're not concerned about VAG approval, you've also got Royal Purple 0w40, Royal Purple 5w40, Shell Rotella T6 5w40, and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 (among others) available off-the-shelf. You can also get Pennzoil Ultra 0w40 at Chrysler dealers too, or Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5w40 at Mercedes dealers. Or visit NAPA for Liqui-Moly TopTec/Synthoil Premium/Synthoil Energy. Or get Amsoil or Redline at select auto parts stores.

See? I've just rattled off a dozen different readily-available synthetic oils, give of which carry the necessary approvals.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
These German cars are just blowing my mind with tedious pickinesd that I'm not used to.

Jeff

Pickiness? If anything, you're the one being picky in this thread.
smile.gif
Stop overanalyzing things and use any readily available VW 502.00 oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
These German cars are just blowing my mind with tedious pickinesd that I'm not used to.

Jeff

Pickiness? If anything, you're the one being picky in this thread.
smile.gif
Stop overanalyzing things and use any readily available VW 502.00 oil.



Bingo. Your car won't know the difference.
 
You guys are missing the point...yes I know there are 502 vw oils out there that's not the issue really. The issue is to prevent the crud on the intake valves. People were saying low saps oil may help.

The top end oiler sounds like an idea but not now under warranty. Even though it would be easy to remove. If WMI doesn't help then I'm not sure the oiler will help.

Intake crud prevention is what I'm looking at here guys.

I guess I should just let it be and in 50k miles pay to have the valves scraped. I should have researched this engine before the purchase. Lesson learned.

Jeff
 
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OFF TOPIC (sort of). You guys have cured me of any desire to get a GTI which was one of the two possibles for my next car (btwn GTI and Volvo C30). I don't want to buy a car that almost guarantees me an "issue" at 30K unless I take extra measures (e.g. Italian tune ups, top end oilers etc). Thanks for the warning.
 
Yeah I love the GTI don't get me wrong but like all cars there are always quirks. Trust me Volvo has them too. It's just what your willing to put up with. Coming from an Evo any car is kinda a let down in the performance area but the GTI is a great car in its own right despite is mechanical flaws.

Jeff
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Yeah I love the GTI don't get me wrong but like all cars there are always quirks. Trust me Volvo has them too. It's just what your willing to put up with. Coming from an Evo any car is kinda a let down in the performance area but the GTI is a great car in its own right despite is mechanical flaws.

Jeff


Then you just need to drive a car with more HP
wink.gif
Seriously, I'm sure a 1000HP Terminator or Shelby GT1000 would vanquish those Evo longings
grin.gif


*note, I have no idea how much power your Evo was making, so I guessed high and assumed a 1000HP car would probably best that mark by a good margin. If it was below 500HP, then I can think of a pile of other cars that would work equally as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
You guys are missing the point...yes I know there are 502 vw oils out there that's not the issue really. The issue is to prevent the crud on the intake valves. People were saying low saps oil may help.

The top end oiler sounds like an idea but not now under warranty. Even though it would be easy to remove. If WMI doesn't help then I'm not sure the oiler will help.

Intake crud prevention is what I'm looking at here guys.

I guess I should just let it be and in 50k miles pay to have the valves scraped. I should have researched this engine before the purchase. Lesson learned.

Jeff



So run a low SAPS oil or something with a low NOACK value, like Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 (which has a NOACK of 6% and is VW 502).

I don't think the buildup is as bad as you think it will be. The current generation of VAG TFSI is showing very slow buildup; I just saw a photo of the Audi 3.0TFSI and even at 60k the buildup was fairly low.
 
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