Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
VW 504 Oil Experiment Your Opinion Counts!
- Thread starter Jeffs2006EvoIX
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Doug, certainly one of the "old school guys" with half a century of experience in the industry would say to run an approved lubricant. End of story. He'd probably recommend M1 0w-40.
And, I bet he'd say follow the OEM OCI recommendations. That's a broad hint, too.
Doug, certainly one of the "old school guys" with half a century of experience in the industry would say to run an approved lubricant. End of story. He'd probably recommend M1 0w-40.
And, I bet he'd say follow the OEM OCI recommendations. That's a broad hint, too.
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Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
Thank you UG Passat that info was helpful
Thanks
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
Thank you UG Passat that info was helpful
Thanks
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,663
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Why don't you just PM your "old school guys" since you're not getting their attention here?
Quote:
It's like you guys are upset with me because I'm curious if 504 would be better to use than 502 and I get all this?
You keep asking the same question over and over hoping to get a different answer? This forum has dispensed all the advice there was. You just refuse to take it.
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Why don't you just PM your "old school guys" since you're not getting their attention here?
Quote:
It's like you guys are upset with me because I'm curious if 504 would be better to use than 502 and I get all this?
You keep asking the same question over and over hoping to get a different answer? This forum has dispensed all the advice there was. You just refuse to take it.
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
And any oil meeting MB 229.5 has a NOACK limit of 10%. This includes the populars such as M1 0w-40 and GC.
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
And any oil meeting MB 229.5 has a NOACK limit of 10%. This includes the populars such as M1 0w-40 and GC.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
And any oil meeting MB 229.5 has a NOACK limit of 10%. This includes the populars such as M1 0w-40 and GC.
Yep, but we mentioned that on both treads like 100 times, and we come back again full circle!
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Lower NOACK is better.
504/507 limit is 11% max
502/505/505.01/503.00/503.01 is 13%
And any oil meeting MB 229.5 has a NOACK limit of 10%. This includes the populars such as M1 0w-40 and GC.
Yep, but we mentioned that on both treads like 100 times, and we come back again full circle!
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
He can run Motul X-Clean. It meets 502.00/505.01, it is Mid-SAPS, meets MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, has good HTHS of 3.64. I am actually thinking to try it after winter.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
He can run Motul X-Clean. It meets 502.00/505.01, it is Mid-SAPS, meets MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, has good HTHS of 3.64. I am actually thinking to try it after winter.
in the other thread, one of you guys has it wrong about 504.00 specification.
504.00 (/507.00) was created as a "one-all" specification for gas and diesel oil specs, which included both fixed and flexible intervals.
In the past, (and still current for our market), 502.00 is the fixed interval spec. The flexible interval is 503.00/503.01 in Europe.
For the TDI side of the house, 505.00/505.01 is the fixed interval and 506.00/506.01 was the flexible service interval.
when 507.00 was initially released, VWAG then found it was not suitable for the 2.5L I5 and 5.0L V10, as it was shearing too much due to the geartrain used in lieu of a timing belt or timing chain. So, 506.01 was still recommended, even with DPF's, until the spec got updated to make it suitable.
Now, the other caveat is with the R8 with the V10 engine, VW resurrected and updated 501.01, which is now a 10w60 oil.
And... to keep things interesting since Jeff mentioned esters... does the 8100 X-clean have esters in its additive package? Probably why Jeff mentions Redline euro 5w30.
It is easy enough to ignore Jeff's threads... don't click on it or respond to it.
504.00 (/507.00) was created as a "one-all" specification for gas and diesel oil specs, which included both fixed and flexible intervals.
In the past, (and still current for our market), 502.00 is the fixed interval spec. The flexible interval is 503.00/503.01 in Europe.
For the TDI side of the house, 505.00/505.01 is the fixed interval and 506.00/506.01 was the flexible service interval.
when 507.00 was initially released, VWAG then found it was not suitable for the 2.5L I5 and 5.0L V10, as it was shearing too much due to the geartrain used in lieu of a timing belt or timing chain. So, 506.01 was still recommended, even with DPF's, until the spec got updated to make it suitable.
Now, the other caveat is with the R8 with the V10 engine, VW resurrected and updated 501.01, which is now a 10w60 oil.
And... to keep things interesting since Jeff mentioned esters... does the 8100 X-clean have esters in its additive package? Probably why Jeff mentions Redline euro 5w30.
It is easy enough to ignore Jeff's threads... don't click on it or respond to it.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
M1 0w40 is in the 10-13% NOACK range.
What is the source of this info?
AFAIK, it's around 8.8%.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3119552#Post3119552
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
M1 0w40 is in the 10-13% NOACK range.
What is the source of this info?
AFAIK, it's around 8.8%.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3119552#Post3119552
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,663
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
He can run Motul X-Clean. It meets 502.00/505.01, it is Mid-SAPS, meets MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, has good HTHS of 3.64. I am actually thinking to try it after winter.
I was looking into the Motul actually.
At least this group 5 oil is certified unlike redline. For warranty purposes.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I can't mail some of the "old school" guys any longer they have passed. If you have been here long enough you will know who I'm talking about Quattro Pete
Some of them are still around. If you have been here long enough, you will know who I'm talking about.
Please forgive that the quality of our responses is not up to your satisfaction. I will once again repeat what I would do in your situation: I would run a low SAPS, low NOACK oil that still meets the car's warranty requirements, still realizing that it will not prevent DI deposits completely and factor in the cost of occasional valve cleaning into the maintenance budget.
He can run Motul X-Clean. It meets 502.00/505.01, it is Mid-SAPS, meets MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, has good HTHS of 3.64. I am actually thinking to try it after winter.
I was looking into the Motul actually.
At least this group 5 oil is certified unlike redline. For warranty purposes.
MOtul X-clean 5w30 or 5w40 doesn't claim to be a Group V basestock oil.
the 8100 Eco-Lite is, but it is not a suitable oil.
http://www.motul.com/us/en-us/fluidsearch?utf8=%E2%9C%93&fluidsearch%5Bq%5D=ester
If the X-clean was, you'd think Motul would actually advertise it.
the 8100 Eco-Lite is, but it is not a suitable oil.
http://www.motul.com/us/en-us/fluidsearch?utf8=%E2%9C%93&fluidsearch%5Bq%5D=ester
If the X-clean was, you'd think Motul would actually advertise it.
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
MOtul X-clean 5w30 or 5w40 doesn't claim to be a Group V basestock oil.
the 8100 Eco-Lite is, but it is not a suitable oil.
http://www.motul.com/us/en-us/fluidsearch?utf8=%E2%9C%93&fluidsearch%5Bq%5D=ester
If the X-clean was, you'd think Motul would actually advertise it.
They say it is 100% synthetic, so I would say PAO based.
MOtul X-clean 5w30 or 5w40 doesn't claim to be a Group V basestock oil.
the 8100 Eco-Lite is, but it is not a suitable oil.
http://www.motul.com/us/en-us/fluidsearch?utf8=%E2%9C%93&fluidsearch%5Bq%5D=ester
If the X-clean was, you'd think Motul would actually advertise it.
They say it is 100% synthetic, so I would say PAO based.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
M1 0w40 is in the 10-13% NOACK range.
What is the source of this info?
AFAIK, it's around 8.8%.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3119552#Post3119552
Yup, as per Mobil, it is 8.8%.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
M1 0w40 is in the 10-13% NOACK range.
What is the source of this info?
AFAIK, it's around 8.8%.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3119552#Post3119552
Yup, as per Mobil, it is 8.8%.
Hello all, been a long time since I've checked these forums. Good to see my beloved GC still reigns supreme (in VW apps at least).
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
Originally Posted By: turbodevil
Hello all, been a long time since I've checked these forums. Good to see my beloved GC still reigns supreme (in VW apps at least).
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
Hey neighbor,
My TSI does not use a drop of GC, and I really push it to the limit very often.
I put 5qt, take out 5qt!
Hello all, been a long time since I've checked these forums. Good to see my beloved GC still reigns supreme (in VW apps at least).
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
Hey neighbor,
My TSI does not use a drop of GC, and I really push it to the limit very often.
I put 5qt, take out 5qt!
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,663
Originally Posted By: turbodevil
Hello all, been a long time since I've checked these forums. Good to see my beloved GC still reigns supreme (in VW apps at least).
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post my fellow GTI brother.
I too am staying out of the forums for the mk6 to not get tempted. Personally I don't find this platform to be very mod friendly for one and 2 VW won't cover nothing if you do. I was considering a APR stage 1 tune and that would be it, but with the horror stories I have heard about lack of VW support even for basic bolt on mods? Forget it not worth the issue. In my Evo's all of which had around 360-400 awhp I would go to the dealer only for stuff I couldn't do. Even with my mods Mitsubishi never questioned anything. They even noticed my Brembo brakes had started peeling (probably from excessive heat from track duty) they replace ALL my calipers no questions asked. I even had a Mitdubishi engineer test drive my car because he wanted to see how the driving dynamics were of the car. He saw my tune on his laptop asked me about it said whoever tuned it did an excellent job and handed my keys back. Where as VW tries to give you lip over an intake or an exhaust. Though I didn't buy this car to mod I always felt being a "hot hatch" with a turbo 2.0 would be crying for mods. Now though I'm not too sure.
As for oil I have heard almost every VW owner say they LOVE GC even though it's not green any more ha ha. I have been using the M1 0w40 because it's easily found and has approvals I need. Maybe I will try the GC next time around. Is the NOACK around the same as the M1? The info I found on M1 was from a euro vw site and must be old info. If the current M1 NOACK is 8.8% that's better than I thought by far.
Is there some other reason why the GC would be a better choice for the TSI? Of course it would be opinion but still would like some insight on that.
And Quattro Pete if you read this I apologize for coming off as a jerk didn't mean to. Just taking things too seriously here and I shouldn't.
Thanks everyone for your help and input.
Jeff
Hello all, been a long time since I've checked these forums. Good to see my beloved GC still reigns supreme (in VW apps at least).
I found these threads after researching the same general concept as the OP: which oil will cause the least amount of carbon buildup in a VAG 2.0T. I am also interested in preventing cam and follower wear (FSI engine).
Background: I got interested in oil while owning a 97 A4 1.8T. I bought the car used right around the time the sludge issues were brought to light. Ran auto-rx, rotella flush, GC green->good to go. Used GC for the rest of the time I owned it and had 0 oil related problems.
I currently own a 2008 GTI (BPY FSI), bought new in 08. I moved to a place where I couldn't work on my car anymore and started taking it to a VW/Audi repair shop for maintenance. I wanted to keep the car stock through warranty at least and dropped off the forums (vortex, golfmkv) so as not to tempt myself. I knew that 10k oci was ridiculous, and had 502 oil changed at 5k. I often supplied my own GC, but sometimes I didn't and got Total, Motul, or (gasp!), even Castrol 5w40.
The car now has 75k miles. I get 32 mpg mostly highway, accelerating rapidly (not WOT) up to cruising speed. It's time for plugs (again) and coilpacks, but that's about it (piston DV too).
Why am I researching this stuff now, after I've owned the car for 5 years? Because I started checking forums again and saw that there were known issues with the engine that I haven't encountered. And why not? Who knows. What I do know is that I followed the manufacturer's advice: always at least 91 octane, 95+% of the time it's Shell V-Power; got the PCV fix a few years back; use 502 oils only; check the oil at the pump; use techron or similar one tank before an oil change; drive the [censored] car like it's meant to be driven.
My advice to you: follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. Change the oil in between 10k service with an approved oil and oem filter (receipts). If/when something wears out (like the cam follower in FSI's), you'll show you took proper care of the engine and the TSI might get a warranty extension on that part like the FSI did with the cam follower (120k miles). If you start throwing brand X awesome oil in to prevent carbon buildup, VW could say the unapproved oil lead to whatever part failure and then you're SOL. Stop worrying about the carbon build up. It's allegedly inevitable. If you own the car after 4 years and want to treat yourself, clean it out or pay to have it done.
And 1 more thing: GC vs M1 0w40: back in the day I understood GC to be a thick 30, while M1 was a thin 40. People said their 1.8T's ran quieter and had better mileage with GC. It was also green and made in Germany (like the car!). Now it is gold and still made in Germany and my FSI loves it. The car also starts at -15F.
Oops: 1 more: You bought the car for some reason or another. VW's have quirks, especially 100HP/liter ones. VAG considers 1000 mile consumption normal. Deal with this or buy a different car.
Good luck to you OP. If you want to test your theory, stick with the (502) oil you think will lead to the least amount of carbon buildup and check the valves every xxx miles. If yours are better than others at similar mileage, you win!
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post my fellow GTI brother.
I too am staying out of the forums for the mk6 to not get tempted. Personally I don't find this platform to be very mod friendly for one and 2 VW won't cover nothing if you do. I was considering a APR stage 1 tune and that would be it, but with the horror stories I have heard about lack of VW support even for basic bolt on mods? Forget it not worth the issue. In my Evo's all of which had around 360-400 awhp I would go to the dealer only for stuff I couldn't do. Even with my mods Mitsubishi never questioned anything. They even noticed my Brembo brakes had started peeling (probably from excessive heat from track duty) they replace ALL my calipers no questions asked. I even had a Mitdubishi engineer test drive my car because he wanted to see how the driving dynamics were of the car. He saw my tune on his laptop asked me about it said whoever tuned it did an excellent job and handed my keys back. Where as VW tries to give you lip over an intake or an exhaust. Though I didn't buy this car to mod I always felt being a "hot hatch" with a turbo 2.0 would be crying for mods. Now though I'm not too sure.
As for oil I have heard almost every VW owner say they LOVE GC even though it's not green any more ha ha. I have been using the M1 0w40 because it's easily found and has approvals I need. Maybe I will try the GC next time around. Is the NOACK around the same as the M1? The info I found on M1 was from a euro vw site and must be old info. If the current M1 NOACK is 8.8% that's better than I thought by far.
Is there some other reason why the GC would be a better choice for the TSI? Of course it would be opinion but still would like some insight on that.
And Quattro Pete if you read this I apologize for coming off as a jerk didn't mean to. Just taking things too seriously here and I shouldn't.
Thanks everyone for your help and input.
Jeff
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
And Quattro Pete if you read this I apologize for coming off as a jerk didn't mean to. Just taking things too seriously here and I shouldn't.
Hope you find your magic potion.
And Quattro Pete if you read this I apologize for coming off as a jerk didn't mean to. Just taking things too seriously here and I shouldn't.
Hope you find your magic potion.
Castrol Edge LL III 5W-30 Prof UOA on TSI-engine after 6300km / 3700 miles. This was posted on a finnish Volkswagen forum. Lab thought the oil is 30000km+ driven M-1 ESP Formula and was informed after the results came back that it is Castrol. That why it says Mobil ESP on sample data.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ypnjb9gbwho2ztp/Sample_Report%5BKA-2%5D.pdf
Comments from the lab:
"ACTION REQUIRED, LOW TBN: Identify and correct the low TBN value of reason. - Possible low TBN value reasons are: 1 poor combustion, excessive bypass, insufficient oil increase, 2 the lower the value of having a TBN of oil caused by the
mixing / contamination, 3 high water content is too low engine temperature and / or prolonged oil change intervals, 4 use fuel with a high sulfur content, 5 low TBN may indicate that the oil is acidification, and that there is very little alkalinity
left, 6 make sure that the product is in the right (engine / transmission). - Take a new sample to make sure that the problem is fixed"
Any thoughts? Why has the oil thickened to SAE 40 -grade so soon?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ypnjb9gbwho2ztp/Sample_Report%5BKA-2%5D.pdf
Comments from the lab:
"ACTION REQUIRED, LOW TBN: Identify and correct the low TBN value of reason. - Possible low TBN value reasons are: 1 poor combustion, excessive bypass, insufficient oil increase, 2 the lower the value of having a TBN of oil caused by the
mixing / contamination, 3 high water content is too low engine temperature and / or prolonged oil change intervals, 4 use fuel with a high sulfur content, 5 low TBN may indicate that the oil is acidification, and that there is very little alkalinity
left, 6 make sure that the product is in the right (engine / transmission). - Take a new sample to make sure that the problem is fixed"
Any thoughts? Why has the oil thickened to SAE 40 -grade so soon?
Strange results, indeed. TBN of 2.2 isn't alarmingly low yet, however, it is strange that it dropped so much after only 6,400 km (4k miles). This wouldn't be surprising if you used high sulfur gasoline, but I thought Finland's gasoline is of rather high quality and low sulfur content.
The viscosity jump in such a short interval is a bit puzzling, too. Normally we see the viscosity drop some before it starts to go up.
Lastly, I'm not liking the 82 ppm of iron. Where is it coming from?
What are your typical driving patterns? How long (in months) was the oil in service?
Why don't you post it in the UOA section? You should get more feedback on it there.
The viscosity jump in such a short interval is a bit puzzling, too. Normally we see the viscosity drop some before it starts to go up.
Lastly, I'm not liking the 82 ppm of iron. Where is it coming from?
What are your typical driving patterns? How long (in months) was the oil in service?
Why don't you post it in the UOA section? You should get more feedback on it there.
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