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Has anyone done a VIA on Pennzoil L 5w30 lately?
Euro L? Yes, yes I have. :)
 
Euro L? Yes, yes I have. :)
Do’h! My dumb self didn’t look hard enough. Thank You sir 👍😍
 
Updated to add Castrol Edge HM 5W30 D1G3, M1 EP HM 5W30 Triple Action Plus, and BMW TwinPower Turbo 0W30.
 
I don't think it's necessary to have that much metallic additives in your oil. The oil will eventually oxidize and have to be changed anyway. High TBN and TBN in general is no longer considered relevant. It's like paying for expensive vitamins that will only give you expensive urine. It's just not necessary and seems like a waste.
 
I don't think it's necessary to have that much metallic additives in your oil. The oil will eventually oxidize and have to be changed anyway. High TBN and TBN in general is no longer considered relevant. It's like paying for expensive vitamins that will only give you expensive urine. It's just not necessary and seems like a waste.

When you take your argument down to its logical bottom, there is then no need to run any expensive oil. Just grab the cheapest junk off the shelf and change it early. Right? Why are we all here on this forum?
 
When you take your argument down to its logical bottom, there is then no need to run any expensive oil. Just grab the cheapest junk off the shelf and change it early. Right? Why are we all here on this forum?
Not necessarily. My point is in the year 2023 with GDI engines found in most cars, this formulation approach is not required, necessary or effective. You can purchase premium oils that are not using such high amounts of metallic additives.

HPL is a very fine oil and ultra-premium. No argument there. Superior in many aspects. But I would not run this oil in a GDI engine. That much moly it may not even pass GM's turbo test. Who knows.

I prefer the HPL Euro chemistry.
 
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Very good info that I haven't been able to find anywhere on some oils listed. I was very curious about the Kirkland Signature oil, since we just got a Costco membership.

After some digging, and a final decision to abandon 0w-20, I got my wife's '20 Mazda CX-5 on PUP 5W30. Glad to see it's on the lower viscosity side of the xW-30 oils. As for my '12 CR-V, my summer oil this year is currently PP 10W30. I'd love to see how that compares to the other PP oils. Winter oil is going to be the same as the wife's oil.

What I find very interesting though, is that the viscosities of 0W30 actually make them better candidates for summer oil than winter oil. I'm seeing that 5W30 viscosities are for at least the old I'm looking at, better winter oils. We are in central Virginia. We see 90+ F temps in summer and as low as 15F temps in winter.
 
Not necessarily. My point is in the year 2023 with GDI engines found in most cars, this formulation approach is not required, necessary or effective. You can purchase premium oils that are not using such high amounts of metallic additives.

HPL is a very fine oil and ultra-premium. No argument there. Superior in many aspects. But I would not run this oil in a GDI engine. That much moly it may not even pass GM's turbo test. Who knows.

I prefer the HPL Euro chemistry.

I ran that exact oil/sample in my hemi. It's still port injection, but the premium plus formula meets/exceeds the ms6395 that the hemi "requires", except that I ran the 0w-30 which is not part of the spec but available in HPL anyway.

I'm now running 5w-30 no-vii euro. I won't pretend to be smart enough to know what the difference between the euro and premium plus is in terms of additives and which one is better or not. I just know the "no vii" is supposed to be more sheer stable and was highly recommended for towing applications.
 
I ran that exact oil/sample in my hemi. It's still port injection, but the premium plus formula meets/exceeds the ms6395 that the hemi "requires", except that I ran the 0w-30 which is not part of the spec but available in HPL anyway.

I'm now running 5w-30 no-vii euro. I won't pretend to be smart enough to know what the difference between the euro and premium plus is in terms of additives and which one is better or not. I just know the "no vii" is supposed to be more sheer stable and was highly recommended for towing applications.
They're all great oils.
 
One of my favorite oils to use. Had great results
Same here.. Apparently it is touted as the best oil if you have a v8 Hemi with that dreaded lifter tick. Doesn't cure it, just quietens the engine down so much that you think its cured.
 
I don't think it's necessary to have that much metallic additives in your oil. The oil will eventually oxidize and have to be changed anyway. High TBN and TBN in general is no longer considered relevant. It's like paying for expensive vitamins that will only give you expensive urine. It's just not necessary and seems like a waste.

Uhh, what? TBN is definitively the most important aspect when someone is considering a long OCI of 20k or more. Now, if you change at 10k, then sure, it really doesn't matter much.
 
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