Very confused newbie!

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Good question. The Chevron oil is almost clear, one would think that it is more "pure"!? Suppose it has to due with different base stocks and additives but wish all oils were closer to being clear so it would be easier to see the amount of contaminants in suspension. [Razz]
 

91grandam

Thread starter
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9
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Ottawa Ontario Canada
I also remember hearing somewhere that certain oils can't be mixed together (can't use brand B in motor that already has used brand A). Is that true? Would it be a problem if I switched to Castol GTX? Is that the oil you guys recomend? Thanks again!
 
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233
Location
Pullman WA
Honestly if your changing your oil very frequently(every 3,000 miles) any SL rated oil would be sufficient. The benefit of going with a synthetic oil would be a better oil with an extended drain interval, so in theory your getting the best oil at the same price as a conventional oil because you don't change it as often. But sense you have an older car (91) I'd stick with conventional oil, castrol GTX is a good oil, better than valvoline IMO, I suggest trying it for your next oil change (or chevron supreme).
 

driven2services

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quote:
Originally posted by 91grandam: I also remember hearing somewhere that certain oils can't be mixed together (can't use brand B in motor that already has used brand A). Is that true? Would it be a problem if I switched to Castol GTX? Is that the oil you guys recomend? Thanks again!
All the oils are compatible...but, it's best to keep one brand of oil in the engine at a time. Each brand of oil, and each line within that brand might have a specific package of additives and they work best when they're not mixed with other additives. (I'm referring to the additives that the refiner adds to create the final oil product, not to stuff you buy off the shelf to add--but don't use that stuff either.) When you change your oil you can change brands with no problem. Ken
 

Patman

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Oakville, Ontario
Chevron Supreme isn't available here, however Havoline is, and last time I heard they may be the same oil (things change quickly though, so who knows now?) Another good choice would be Pennzoil. Those are pretty low kilometers for a 1991 vehicle! The previous owner didn't drive it too much. I'd be worried about that, somewhat, as it may have been used to drive very very short trips. It's nice to see more and more people from Ontario joining up too! Us Canadians are taking over! [Wink]
 

MolaKule

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Iowegia - USA
Chris, "Good question. The Chevron oil is almost clear, one would think that it is more "pure"!? Suppose it has to due with different base stocks and additives but wish all oils were closer to being clear so it would be easier to see the amount of contaminants in suspension." The primary reason for the color in an oil is the color of the dye. The secondary reasons are the addtive packages tend to darken or color the oil. I have a selection of pure base oils in the lab from Group I, II, III dinos and synthetics, and they are all clear as water. Some additive packages tend to discolor the oil, depending on the additive makeup, but even most additive packages are almost clear as well. However, I have yet to see any contaminants in any formulated oil because the oils are usually filtered before they reach the packaging area.
 

91grandam

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9
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Ottawa Ontario Canada
Hey guys, how's it goin? I own a 1991 Grand Am LE with the 2.3 L Quad 4, auto tranny and 50 000km on it. The car is in GREAT shape and was maintained VERY well by the previous owner. I have changed the oil like clock work EVERY 5000 km. I've been reading posts on the site for a little while (great site BTW!) and I must say I'm confused as to which oil I should be using in my car. I am currently using Valvoline 5-30 oil. I read in a post NOT to use that oil..... why? I would also like to know what oil I should use/switch too?? I DO NOT want to use synth. oils. I know they are better, but I drive quite a bit and change my oil VERY frequently, and can not afford it! Any info you guys could give me would be a GREAT help! Thanks in advance! Paul.
 
Messages
233
Location
Pullman WA
A lot of posters have commented on Valvoline's poor additive packages in their full line of oils (including maxlife). There are lots of threads on this subject, try using the search feature. Most people who have done oil analysis on the oils they have used in their cars agree that castrol GTX is a good choice for non-synthetic, I also believe that chevron supreme and havoline are good choices. I've recently switched from maxlife to chevron in an older car of mine and have been happy.
 

Patman

Staff member
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Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by csandste: Totally clear oil isn't a big plus IMHO. Makes it hard to see on the dipstick.
I know this is slightly off topic, but I really hate checking the oil with a dipstick. Half the cars I own have been a pain to check, you can't always get an accurate reading (unless the stick has holes in it, and then that makes it way better) I really wish more cars came with an oil level gauge, I believe some Porsche 911s used to come this way.
 
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Location
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"The primary reason for the color in an oil is the color of the dye." MolaKule, What is the dye for? To look deeper and richer? [stretch]
 

MolaKule

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Location
Iowegia - USA
Chris, There are basically three reasons for dyes: 1. Oil Distinction, 2. Identification (red for PSF or ATF's), 3. Some people have the mindset that darker oils are "richer" or more robust oils, whatever that means. This is not true. Clear oils do not imply "purer' oils, BTW.
 
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