Varnish Removal

BUBBA0420 · Jan 23, 2006

I have 1998 Nissan Maxima with 84,000 Miles on
it and I notice what looks like varnish when
I take off the oil cap. (Kind of like a brown color) on the cam even though I change the oil
every 2000 miles and have never used anything
except Castrol GTX or Havoline. What would
be the best thing to use to clean this up ??
It's not bad but I like a clean motor.

AndyH · Jan 23, 2006

I'd give Auto-RX a try...lot's of positive first-hand experiences with this product here on BITOG.

BUBBA0420 · Jan 23, 2006

Thank You Andy. I will

ALS · Jan 23, 2006

I bought a 97 960 Volvo (66K) that had dino oil changes. The valve area was a nice dark chocolate color. I Auto-Rxed the engine and today the same area is the color of a brand new shinny penny.

unDummy · Jan 23, 2006

With frequent 2k OCI's, I wouldn't worry about the varnish. Its just visual.

Try a 5-10 minute OTC engine flush. Or, use an ounce of Seafoam per quart at every OCI!

I only worry about sludge, crud, and caked on carbon deposits.

I'd also recommending using a synthetic with a 5k OCI to prevent spending so much time under the car!

And, replace the PCV valve.

Mud · Jan 23, 2006

Auto-Rx is great, but I have had very good results with removing most, but not all, the varnish with 8 oz of lube control at every fresh/oil filter change. Takes a while, but as noted, varnish is really not that big of a deal as long as there is no sludge in there.

Of course, cleaner is better inside the engine, but the LC is very effective and safe, just takes a while. However, the effects are noticeable over time.

Some engines seem to have the discoloration no matter what, though. Our audi has the discoloration, but no sludge/deposits, but my 4.6 ford is spankin' clean.

shavenstringer · Jan 23, 2006

Dont use seafoam in the engine. Or an OTC engine flush. There have been many post here on the dangers of using either of these types of products in the crankcase.

thooks · Jan 24, 2006

I'd try some Marvel Mystery Oil. I know people get tired of reading that, but I've had good results with it.

Change the oil and substitute a quart for a quart of oil. It will darken the oil quickly also. I'd run it for about 1500 miles, then dump it.

tensecondz1 · Jan 24, 2006

I agree with the above that AutoRx is not effective on just varnish. I think even Frank has alluded to this.

Volvohead · Jan 24, 2006

ARX for sludge and other deposit removal.
LC for varnish removal and oxidation control.

It's as simple as that.

ALS · Jan 24, 2006

quote:

ARX for sludge and other deposit removal.
LC for varnish removal and oxidation control.

Ditto the 960 is presently running LC20 along with 10W30 M1.

glennc · Jan 24, 2006

In contrast to those comments I've been using Auto-RX on my varnished-but-not-sludged older BMW and have seen so little cosmetic difference under the valve cover that if varnish removal is the goal, I'd look for something else. I'm almost through the second "rinse" phase.

- Glenn

shavenstringer · Jan 24, 2006

Give lube control a try I had lots of varnish in my 96 BMW and it removed most all of it. Lube control will turn the oil black very quickly if you have sludge or varnish.

Rich21 · Jan 25, 2006

ALS,
So ARX got the valve train shiney clean like a penny? Now you are using LC to try and keep it that way?

ALS · Jan 25, 2006

Yes and No. The LC is in there since the car is used exclusively on the highway. I only want to change the oil once a year since the car see's about 6K miles per year. I have no plans on dumping the M1 every 6 months or 3K miles.
Also the LC is there to help clean the rest of the varnish and keep it clean. The Auto-Rx did clean up the valve train very well. As I said it looked like a brand new penny when I drained the rinse oil.

JohnBrowning · Jan 26, 2006

Buy a gallon of Lube Control and your varnish will be gone in no time! I would do the intial flush per old lable instructions then follow the maintence dose per instructions. I think LC is like $32 a gallon or something like that and depending on how you use it you can get anywere from 40,000-90,000 miles of cleaning out of a gallon.

Pablo · Jan 26, 2006

quote:

Buy a gallon of Lube Control and your varnish will be gone in no time!

This is simply not true. I used up my gallon of LC in my old Volvo 245. Varnish is still there. This is following an AutoRx treatment a few years back and many years of synthetic use. The "original" varnish is still there.

I have come to the conclusion that visual varnish means nothing. OTOH keeping the rings clean is everything.

Terry · Jan 26, 2006

Pablo raises a good point and one that will drive you nuts if you are a anal retentive BITOG'er ( are there any other kind?)

What deposit or discoloration is the key. If you are looking at a surface that is very porous and is actually activated EP adds it may never come out ( Volvo brick cars).

If it is real varnish deposit then BOTH adds will address the problem.

LC probably faster but cannot deeply clean the way Auto-RX will.

Volvohead · Jan 26, 2006

You've probably got a better chance with difficult varnish if you double up the currently recommended LC dosage. It won't hurt anything at that concentration.

If ARX and then LC doesn't remove it, I wouldn't worry too much about it. A little varnish tinting is no big deal, and that's all it is.

Ken2 · Jan 27, 2006

"Varnish" is actually a thick-ish, brown, transparent build up on parts. This is removed by Auto-Rx and likely LC20. A brown stain of no apparent thickness, especially in the pores of cast aluminum, isn't going away.

Ken

Varnish Removal

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