What would everyone think of mixing valvoline vr1 synthetic with valvoline vr1 dino in a 50/50 blend, the analysis from the company are pretty much identical, same zinc/phos, tbn, calcium etc. Doing this would save a couple bucks if you have more than one bike, what do you think?
valvoline vr1
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I have that mix in my K75C right now because I had it handy. 2qts 20W-50 dino and 2qts 10W-30 Syn....Running fine.
Depends on what you're trying to do.
The conventional VR-1 is a good oil. There are a couple of UOA's around here in Harleys and maybe some other bikes. Translation: Why not just use the VR-1 conventional oil.
Certainly, it will not hurt anything to mix the two.
The conventional VR-1 is a good oil. There are a couple of UOA's around here in Harleys and maybe some other bikes. Translation: Why not just use the VR-1 conventional oil.
Certainly, it will not hurt anything to mix the two.
oh brother!
fuel dilution will cause more negative effects on the flashpoint than synth can ever hope to increase.
considering that i have a uoa from exxon superflo 40wt with a flash of 440 and another from quakerstate highhorsepower 20w50 that was 455 i ask you how you would come to that conclusion?
was it the M1 oil in the frying pan commercial? btw, 390 flash
was it advertisement by amsoil? 365, 390 and 415 flashes
maxima 4 extra at 385 or 420?
or motul at also 385?
probably not from pennzoil's yellow bottle hd30 with its flash of 430.
or maybe blackstone cant really determine flashpoints even when they say there is no fuel?
or do you feel that conventional vr-1 will incur thermal breakdown and cause issues?
fuel dilution will cause more negative effects on the flashpoint than synth can ever hope to increase.
considering that i have a uoa from exxon superflo 40wt with a flash of 440 and another from quakerstate highhorsepower 20w50 that was 455 i ask you how you would come to that conclusion?
was it the M1 oil in the frying pan commercial? btw, 390 flash
was it advertisement by amsoil? 365, 390 and 415 flashes
maxima 4 extra at 385 or 420?
or motul at also 385?
probably not from pennzoil's yellow bottle hd30 with its flash of 430.
or maybe blackstone cant really determine flashpoints even when they say there is no fuel?
or do you feel that conventional vr-1 will incur thermal breakdown and cause issues?
That used to be somewhat true - a few years ago, maybe.
Here are the data from the Valvoline website. In this instance, the conventional VR-1 20W-50 oil has a higher flash point than the synthetic.
Very high flash points, don't you think?
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Synthetic - Flash point (230°C) = 446 F
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Conventional - Flash point (248°C) = 478 F
Source:
Valvoline Synthetic PDF file
Valcoline VR-1 Conventional PDF
Here are the data from the Valvoline website. In this instance, the conventional VR-1 20W-50 oil has a higher flash point than the synthetic.
Very high flash points, don't you think?
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Synthetic - Flash point (230°C) = 446 F
Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Conventional - Flash point (248°C) = 478 F
Source:
Valvoline Synthetic PDF file
Valcoline VR-1 Conventional PDF
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Originally Posted By: 2bike
Most synthetics handle high temps better than conventional oils so the thought was if I get stuck in stop and go traffic and it's 95 degress out maybe the oil would hold up better if using a blend.
and again i ask....where did you come up with this?
Most synthetics handle high temps better than conventional oils so the thought was if I get stuck in stop and go traffic and it's 95 degress out maybe the oil would hold up better if using a blend.
and again i ask....where did you come up with this?
Originally Posted By: 2bike
Most synthetics handle high temps better than conventional oils so the thought was if I get stuck in stop and go traffic and it's 95 degress out maybe the oil would hold up better if using a blend.
There is a Uoa for regular VR1 on this board that was used for 5000 miles on a Harley 96" twin cam. The entire life of that oil change was full Midwest summer bloom. Even saw 300+ oil temps. The oil didn't fail. Synthetic is a waste of money. VR1 at 5k intervals is a proven winner.
Those that report the exciting benefits of syns would consider VR1 syn inferior to Mobil Vtwinn and Amsoil anyway. I believe it's group III.
Brad Penn racing 20/50 is a winner also. Just not as readily available.
Most synthetics handle high temps better than conventional oils so the thought was if I get stuck in stop and go traffic and it's 95 degress out maybe the oil would hold up better if using a blend.
There is a Uoa for regular VR1 on this board that was used for 5000 miles on a Harley 96" twin cam. The entire life of that oil change was full Midwest summer bloom. Even saw 300+ oil temps. The oil didn't fail. Synthetic is a waste of money. VR1 at 5k intervals is a proven winner.
Those that report the exciting benefits of syns would consider VR1 syn inferior to Mobil Vtwinn and Amsoil anyway. I believe it's group III.
Brad Penn racing 20/50 is a winner also. Just not as readily available.
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Harley's don't use a shared sump therefore they are easier on engine oil than a motorcycle that has to share the engine oil with the clutch and the gears. Therefore, VR1 conventional is only a proven winner with respect to use in a Harley Davidson with the three independent oil systems.
True Group IV or V or IV/V blend synthetic oil is of value over conventional in a shared sump motorcycle. Amsoil motorcycle oil is a PAO and Polyol Ester blend and is one of the most shear resistant oils on the market if not THE most shear resistant.
True Group IV or V or IV/V blend synthetic oil is of value over conventional in a shared sump motorcycle. Amsoil motorcycle oil is a PAO and Polyol Ester blend and is one of the most shear resistant oils on the market if not THE most shear resistant.
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Harley's don't use a shared sump therefore they are easier on engine oil than a motorcycle that has to share the engine oil with the clutch and the gears. Therefore, VR1 conventional is only a proven winner with respect to use in a Harley Davidson with the three independent oil systems.
True Group IV or V or IV/V blend synthetic oil is of value over conventional in a shared sump motorcycle. Amsoil motorcycle oil is a PAO and Polyol Ester blend and is one of the most shear resistant oils on the market if not THE most shear resistant.
I'm going to have to disagree with the part about Harleys not being hard on oil because they don't have a shared sump.
Also, There are UOA's out here that don't agree with your statement about the shear resistance of the Amsoil product.
Harley's don't use a shared sump therefore they are easier on engine oil than a motorcycle that has to share the engine oil with the clutch and the gears. Therefore, VR1 conventional is only a proven winner with respect to use in a Harley Davidson with the three independent oil systems.
True Group IV or V or IV/V blend synthetic oil is of value over conventional in a shared sump motorcycle. Amsoil motorcycle oil is a PAO and Polyol Ester blend and is one of the most shear resistant oils on the market if not THE most shear resistant.
I'm going to have to disagree with the part about Harleys not being hard on oil because they don't have a shared sump.
Also, There are UOA's out here that don't agree with your statement about the shear resistance of the Amsoil product.
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And I'm going to have to disagree that a shared sump high revving liquid cooled sport bike isn't still harder on oil than a Harley, even though Harley's run at the higher temps they do because of being air cooled.
Gotta throw in my 2 cents, I dont disagree or agree with any one side.
1. All I say, is if someone claims to know an oil more resistant to shearing in a shared sump, show me the UOA. No, better yet, show me many UOAs.
I do/would THINK an Ester (true synthetic) would hold up better but ... I never seen a UOA of one.
I do think there are some out there someplace but bottom line is countless 20/50 conventional oils UOA show fine UOA in regard to Viscosity.
2. If any oil ever produced a problem with wear, it was synthetic on flat tappets.
3. I dont consider wear numbers the tell all and end all. So many variables, such as climate, riding style, condition of the motor, does the rider let the bike warm up before riding, drive gentle until warmed up, local riding, highway riding etc. Many human factors can skew wear numbers BUT the properties of the oil such as viscosity will hold true as far as its durability. I am not saying discount wear numbers, I am saying many variables.
1. All I say, is if someone claims to know an oil more resistant to shearing in a shared sump, show me the UOA. No, better yet, show me many UOAs.
I do/would THINK an Ester (true synthetic) would hold up better but ... I never seen a UOA of one.
I do think there are some out there someplace but bottom line is countless 20/50 conventional oils UOA show fine UOA in regard to Viscosity.
2. If any oil ever produced a problem with wear, it was synthetic on flat tappets.
3. I dont consider wear numbers the tell all and end all. So many variables, such as climate, riding style, condition of the motor, does the rider let the bike warm up before riding, drive gentle until warmed up, local riding, highway riding etc. Many human factors can skew wear numbers BUT the properties of the oil such as viscosity will hold true as far as its durability. I am not saying discount wear numbers, I am saying many variables.
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