Valvoline VR1 10w30

Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Messages
34
Any harm in running Valvoline VR1 10w30 in a 3.8 Jeep JKU? Been running 5w30 Valvoline full synthetic since rebuilt motor. I change it every 3k anyways so being conventional doesn't bother me.
 

Attachments

  • 16727754921232182004019043592043.jpg
    16727754921232182004019043592043.jpg
    98.7 KB · Views: 50
There's no harm, but likely no benefit either. VR1 is essentially the same base oil blend and add pack as their conventional white bottle Valvoline just with ~80% more ZDDP tossed in. Your engine doesn't need the additional ZDDP.

I would personally stick with the synthetic Valvoline over VR1. Why was the engine rebuilt? Is that engine notorious for any common problems like ring coking, PCV clogging, lifter failures, timing chain wear, etc...?
 
There's no harm, but likely no benefit either. VR1 is essentially the same base oil blend and add pack as their conventional white bottle Valvoline just with ~80% more ZDDP tossed in. Your engine doesn't need the additional ZDDP.

I would personally stick with the synthetic Valvoline over VR1. Why was the engine rebuilt? Is that engine notorious for any common problems like ring coking, PCV clogging, lifter failures, timing chain wear, etc...?
It was rebuilt due to spun rod bearing on number 4. Common issue with early JK Jeeps. The 3.8 when built correctly in America is a good motor for regular use. Says to use 5w20 but I've ran 5w30 since the new motor.
 
Given the common bearing issue, I would probably look into an ACEA A3/B4 5W-30, which requires an HTHS ≥3.5 cP. That'll give the bearings more protection. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-30 and Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 would be good choices off the shelf.
What about API or HPS RP 5w30?
 
What about API or HPS RP 5w30?

The API SP rated RP is almost a mirror image of Valvoline Advanced synthetic in terms of both ICP analysis and performance tests. Aside from the dye, they're essentially the same formula. HPS mirrors Valvoline VR1 synthetic. RP hasn't been a boutique brand the past decade. After the founder died and Calumet took over, things started going downhill. The dye is my biggest issue with them. Too many engines running RP end up with the engine internals looking like it purred Barney's corpse.

Ford Cyclone engine with ~80,000 miles total, ~60,000 miles on RP. All of that is from the dye.

279956717_1421945688256441_3366390756405569611_n.jpg
 
The API SP rated RP is almost a mirror image of Valvoline Advanced synthetic in terms of both ICP analysis and performance tests. Aside from the dye, they're essentially the same formula. HPS mirrors Valvoline VR1 synthetic. RP hasn't been a boutique brand the past decade. After the founder died and Calumet took over, things started going downhill. The dye is my biggest issue with them. Too many engines running RP end up with the engine internals looking like it purred Barney's corpse.

Ford Cyclone engine with ~80,000 miles total, ~60,000 miles on RP. All of that is from the dye.

View attachment 134064
Dang. Glad I always passed on their overpriced oil.
Now get some HPL in there to clean that garbage up.
 
The API SP rated RP is almost a mirror image of Valvoline Advanced synthetic in terms of both ICP analysis and performance tests. Aside from the dye, they're essentially the same formula. HPS mirrors Valvoline VR1 synthetic. RP hasn't been a boutique brand the past decade. After the founder died and Calumet took over, things started going downhill. The dye is my biggest issue with them. Too many engines running RP end up with the engine internals looking like it purred Barney's corpse.

Ford Cyclone engine with ~80,000 miles total, ~60,000 miles on RP. All of that is from the dye.

View attachment 134064
Wow! Thanks for info.
 
Given the common bearing issue, I would probably look into an ACEA A3/B4 5W-30, which requires an HTHS ≥3.5 cP. That'll give the bearings more protection. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-30 and Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 would be good choices off the shelf.
This. Go by the ACEA Sequence or the manufacturer approvals that demonstrate real-world performance.
 
Yeah the Vasoline VR-1 is probably not needed. I wood just do the Napa Synthetic and change it every 3-4k. I wood say wait for it to go on sale but everything is going up and you might not get a great dill on it. Have you looked into Walmart online? Lots of QS synthetic at a fare price.
 
The API SP rated RP is almost a mirror image of Valvoline Advanced synthetic in terms of both ICP analysis and performance tests. Aside from the dye, they're essentially the same formula. HPS mirrors Valvoline VR1 synthetic. RP hasn't been a boutique brand the past decade. After the founder died and Calumet took over, things started going downhill. The dye is my biggest issue with them. Too many engines running RP end up with the engine internals looking like it purred Barney's corpse.

Ford Cyclone engine with ~80,000 miles total, ~60,000 miles on RP. All of that is from the dye.

View attachment 134064
I wonder what the oci's were? Looks really varnished up. Has that red tint to it that varnish has in the light.
 
The API SP rated RP is almost a mirror image of Valvoline Advanced synthetic in terms of both ICP analysis and performance tests. Aside from the dye, they're essentially the same formula. HPS mirrors Valvoline VR1 synthetic. RP hasn't been a boutique brand the past decade. After the founder died and Calumet took over, things started going downhill. The dye is my biggest issue with them. Too many engines running RP end up with the engine internals looking like it purred Barney's corpse.

Ford Cyclone engine with ~80,000 miles total, ~60,000 miles on RP. All of that is from the dye.

View attachment 134064
lets not blame the failure on Ford having crappy engines......
 
lets not blame the failure on Ford having crappy engines......

I have the same engine in my Mustang, with more than double the mileage, and it looks nothing like that. That case isn't unique. I've seen the internals of a GM LS6 and a Nissan KA24DE that had the same purple coating inside after using RP for a while.
 
Does VR1 still have less cleaning agents than normal oils like it used to? I know it's a stout oil otherwise with additives. I don't know if it's still the darling it used to be, but I still use Pennzoil 10w30 in the yellow bottle for applications that call for that. Snow blower and mower still get this with every change. I always remember that one having low NOACK and a solid add pack. Easy to come by for a reasonable price too.
 
I have the same engine in my Mustang, with more than double the mileage, and it looks nothing like that. That case isn't unique. I've seen the internals of a GM LS6 and a Nissan KA24DE that had the same purple coating inside after using RP for a while.
I am with you, but why was the engine apart was my point...........a failure.................due to what? Likely not the oil
 
Does VR1 still have less cleaning agents than normal oils like it used to? I know it's a stout oil otherwise with additives. I don't know if it's still the darling it used to be, but I still use Pennzoil 10w30 in the yellow bottle for applications that call for that. Snow blower and mower still get this with every change. I always remember that one having low NOACK and a solid add pack. Easy to come by for a reasonable price too.

VR1 is 98% the same oil as it's API Valvoline counterpart just with ~80% more ZDDP top treatment. The detergent content is the same API SP DI pack. As far as I know, VR1 has always had the same DI additive content as the standard Valvoline.
 
Does VR1 still have less cleaning agents than normal oils like it used to? I know it's a stout oil otherwise with additives. I don't know if it's still the darling it used to be, but I still use Pennzoil 10w30 in the yellow bottle for applications that call for that. Snow blower and mower still get this with every change. I always remember that one having low NOACK and a solid add pack. Easy to come by for a reasonable price too.
Hendrick Motor sports runs VR1 100% known fact....................but they are a racing team, I do not think it is recommended to run long intervals though.
 
I am with you, but why was the engine apart was my point...........a failure.................due to what? Likely not the oil
My best hunch is that the owner was like, "Uber expensive high end oil, surely can go 10,000+ miles per oil change", and varnished up his engine doing extended oil change intervals.
 
My best hunch is that the owner was like, "Uber expensive high end oil, surely can go 10,000+ miles per oil change", and varnished up his engine doing extended oil change intervals.
could be......................but i think that there was likely something else wrong with the engine...............no oil manufacturere would want that failure getting out. Cant say that i have ever seen an engine fail due to lube, that was properly serviced, using a quality oil..........................but i may be wrong..............
 
Back
Top