valvoline the boss!!!

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Originally Posted By: fmia
Om a serious note I use to use vwb exclusively for years. Never was any sludge or deposits buit up. I did 3k ocis then cuz I thought that was necessary then. I truly have seen few bad uoas of valvoline but never did one. Oh ya and Mobil 1 sucks and my dad can beat up your dad.


I put 354K on a Ford Truck using M1 10-30 all at 10K OCIs and never removed the valve covers. Engine ran great and showed no sign of wear when sold. Now, what is a UOA going to tell you about Valvoline that impresses you so much?
 
I will play along too. I drained out all of my blood and replaced it with VWB. The Dr said my sodium was too high and iron was too low so I replaced it with M1. All is well now.
 
Valvoline is definitely an underrated oil on here. Puts up good UOAs, and I've never seen any reasons why someone should hesitate to use it. When i use up my current stash I think I'm going to switch over to Valvoline MaxLife and be perfectly happy with it.
 
I am all about suertech syn5/20. It the best bang for the buck. I never said the best oil though.just all I need for 7500. And as good as any for that. Valvoline is great to and soo is sopus
 
Originally Posted By: Carbon12
I will play along too. I drained out all of my blood and replaced it with VWB. The Dr said my sodium was too high and iron was too low so I replaced it with M1. All is well now.


You must have seen the old "Airplane" movie. In it, there was a scene in a hospital ward where one of the patients has a old can of motor oil hanging in place of the IV.
 
We don't compare lubricants via UOAs, really. UOAs are to determine lubricant suitability for continued use, not to determine whether Brand A is better than Brand B, within specified motor oils.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: fmia
Wow valvoline = trolling? Ok lets say it does yet u responded.whats that say about you.


I too am a Valvoline fan so no, Valvoline does not equal trolling. You=trolling. Then there's your 'what that say about you' response. Lol...as if we're in 5th grade or something.

Nice try but far fetched...



I see what you did there.



Sneaky.

New same,same diatribe.

What are we betting he's banned right shortly
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
We don't compare lubricants via UOAs, really. UOAs are to determine lubricant suitability for continued use, not to determine whether Brand A is better than Brand B, within specified motor oils.




That concept seems to go right over many members heads. They believe they can track wear via a used oil analysis and higher metals means more wear when the reality is much different.
Some people are beyond learning though
Sad really.
 
Another Valvoline fan here! I don't run full synthetics because they are overkill in my situation and the price isn't justified.
I always run blends and have tried all sorts in the past few years from practically every brand available. First time I used Valvoline was their cheapest 10w30 and my engine was much smoother and quieter straight away. I then stepped up to Durablend 10w30 and the improvement was better still so I just stuck with Valvoline ever since.
Maxlife was the only thing to almost stop oil consumption in an old Mitsubishi we had which worked better than a thicker oil with LM oil saved added.
My car was really hard to start for nearly a year and I tried all sorts to fix it. I tried some expensive fuel additives which didn't work and gave up and was about to change the fuel pump. I found some valvoline injector cleaner really cheap so i bought some and chucked it in and after a few days the hard start had gone!

Basically every experience I've had has been good, and much better than other brands I used previously

Everyone has a certain experience that leads them to one brand and away from some others
 
As for UOAs not showing wear, they kind of do. I've seen high wear numbers in a UOA and then the engine have a part fail or wear out. UOAs with low wear metal numbers means a healthy engine in most cases but there might be exceptions.
I ran cheap Valvoline 10w30 in my engine for 10k hard driven KMs and on the UOA iron was 4ppm, Aluminum and copper 2ppm and lead 1ppm. Most would say that's a good result
 
I've come to the brilliant conclusion that there is no API certified oil that is bad.
Everyone has to select for themselves based on many things.
What their Dad used
What is on sale
The color of the bottle
The name of oil
Bottom line is just use a namebrand in your specd wt and move on to slay bigger dragons.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Garak
We don't compare lubricants via UOAs, really. UOAs are to determine lubricant suitability for continued use, not to determine whether Brand A is better than Brand B, within specified motor oils.




That concept seems to go right over many members heads. They believe they can track wear via a used oil analysis and higher metals means more wear when the reality is much different.
Some people are beyond learning though
Sad really.


+1000
 
Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
Another Valvoline fan here! I don't run full synthetics because they are overkill in my situation and the price isn't justified.
I always run blends and have tried all sorts in the past few years from practically every brand available. First time I used Valvoline was their cheapest 10w30 and my engine was much smoother and quieter straight away. I then stepped up to Durablend 10w30 and the improvement was better still so I just stuck with Valvoline ever since.
Maxlife was the only thing to almost stop oil consumption in an old Mitsubishi we had which worked better than a thicker oil with LM oil saved added.
My car was really hard to start for nearly a year and I tried all sorts to fix it. I tried some expensive fuel additives which didn't work and gave up and was about to change the fuel pump. I found some valvoline injector cleaner really cheap so i bought some and chucked it in and after a few days the hard start had gone!

Basically every experience I've had has been good, and much better than other brands I used previously

Everyone has a certain experience that leads them to one brand and away from some others


Well said.
 
Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
As for UOAs not showing wear, they kind of do.

"Kind of" isn't good enough. We've also seen engines go south completely with perfectly normal UOAs. Besides, my point wasn't that UOAs shouldn't be used to measure wear somehow (and they shouldn't, though), but that they're not good to compare one oil to another, except in very limited ways.
 
Valvoline motor oil would be last in my list of the "major" oils brands if I was shopping. Nothing "wrong" with the product, but if I was going to have a sodium addpack, Napa is the same thing (made by Asheland), cheaper, and often you can grab the Syn for the same price as VWB. So it cannibalizes itself. Otherwise, I always see Valvoline as being a quarter-step behind the SOPUS, Mobil, and BP offerings despite the same "premium price". So for me it is a price-point issue. It is not "premium" enough to be chasing PU/PP/PYB or M1 (M5K is often cheaper) for the "best at the top pricepoint" but it is not any better than the other non-premium options. Otherwise, my picks would be Havoline, (... because I am obviously a Havoline Troll/Fanboy/Corporate Operative) or Formula Shell (easily found for $2.50 a quart) if going with conventional.

That being said, Valvoline ML AT Transmission Fluid is epic (IMO) and I run Valvoline Synpower Gear oil in the Diffs and manual transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Valvoline motor oil would be last in my list of the "major" oils brands if I was shopping. Nothing "wrong" with the product, but if I was going to have a sodium addpack, Napa is the same thing (made by Asheland), cheaper, and often you can grab the Syn for the same price as VWB. So it cannibalizes itself. Otherwise, I always see Valvoline as being a quarter-step behind the SOPUS, Mobil, and BP offerings despite the same "premium price". So for me it is a price-point issue. It is not "premium" enough to be chasing PU/PP/PYB or M1 (M5K is often cheaper) for the "best at the top pricepoint" but it is not any better than the other non-premium options. Otherwise, my picks would be Havoline, (... because I am obviously a Havoline Troll/Fanboy/Corporate Operative) or Formula Shell (easily found for $2.50 a quart) if going with conventional.

That being said, Valvoline ML AT Transmission Fluid is epic (IMO) and I run Valvoline Synpower Gear oil in the Diffs and manual transmission.


You mention Valvoline Synpower gear oil,what's your opinion on Valvoline Durablend 80W90 for a rear diff (that requires 80W90 GL 5)?
 
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