Hey sir You stole my punchline Redline to the house !!Nah, I was just kidding about his high moly/ Hemi tick comment. If he had mentioned Redline specifically, well, then maybe it would deserve a closer look.
Hey sir You stole my punchline Redline to the house !!Nah, I was just kidding about his high moly/ Hemi tick comment. If he had mentioned Redline specifically, well, then maybe it would deserve a closer look.
Burla?? Is that you??Hey sir You stole my punchline Redline to the house !!
Obviously you DIDN’T read the details, or else you would have already known he added RP and Gumout fuel additives, and BG EPR into the oil, along with using a can of intake valve cleaner. No way to separate them now. Let it burn off as usual and then move to the heavier grade, less expensive oil.I read the details. He should continue using R&P and making sure it's full WITH R&P only, no additives.
I want to see how it performs before I decide to stay with it or switch to something else. Seriously, the car runs magnificently. No issues other than it burn oil, at a rate that's actually within Hyundai's limits.Obviously you DIDN’T read the details, or else you would have already known he added RP and Gumout fuel additives, and BG EPR into the oil, along with using a can of intake valve cleaner. No way to separate them now. Let it burn off as usual and then move to the heavier grade, less expensive oil.
By your logic, that would make HPL oil the, even less special, purple haired cousin of the red haired mermaid.
Jedi mind tricks don't work on all of us.
Would the real Burla please stand upBurla?? Is that you??
I wasn’t knocking your choices; I know you’re trying the best you know how. Your investment in the car is clear… somehow somebody thought I meant for you to purposely drain new oil which was clearly not the intent. Let your current fill run its course.I want to see how it performs before I decide to stay with it or switch to something else. Seriously, the car runs magnificently. No issues other than it burn oil, at a rate that's actually within Hyundai's limits.
BG EPR was added to the oil before I changed it. My fill before the Restore and Protect was Valvoline EP High Mileage. It was very clean on the dipstick with about 2000 miles on it. So instead of waiting for my oil change to come up I did it early. Because I read that the BG EPR works significantly better on fresh/clean oil than it does on broken down and dirty oil. And I wanted to switch anyways. I was being impatient.
And the CRC was sprayed into the Throttle body while the EPR was cleaning the engine. I did this so there would be effectively less contamination in the fill oil. I was originally going to "rinse" with oil (fill and run for 100 miles or so) but time and money didn't make that practical. I figure any residual chemicals can help the R&P break down deposits![]()
I wish we knew how many of these 2.4 theta 2 engines blow up because of running low on oil. I know one guy who is the service manager where I take my truck (I used to work with him) and his Santa Fe blew up. As far as he said it was not low on oil but he may not have wanted to admit if he did let it get low because he got a warranty engine replacement.I wasn’t knocking your choices; I know you’re trying the best you know how. Your investment in the car is clear… somehow somebody thought I meant for you to purposely drain new oil which was clearly not the intent. Let your current fill run its course.
Since you’re “all-in” on this car, have you considered reading the thread on HPL Engine Cleaner?
I'm on the Hyundai forums as well, and most threads are people having trouble codes (CEL) for something related to that stupid knock sensor or oil consumption/seized engines.I wish we knew how many of these 2.4 theta 2 engines blow up because of running low on oil. I know one guy who is the service manager where I take my truck (I used to work with him) and his Santa Fe blew up. As far as he said it was not low on oil but he may not have wanted to admit if he did let it get low because he got a warranty engine replacement.
Based on the number of people who don't check oil these days and no low oil warning on these vehicles, the number could be somewhere near 100% of failures were caused by low oil level.
My wife's 2013 is near 100k miles now and still doesn't use any oil. It used to smell like fuel when she short tripped it and it would turn black immediately after a change. Now it stays as clean as I can imagine a GDI engine staying and no real fuel smell. I should eventually send a UOA out.
I never really trusted it but I'm starting to think it might be one of the ones that goes 200k. Especially with our 3-5k mile synthetic oil change regimen. And I do the changes so it gets an extra long drain.
I wish we knew how many of these 2.4 theta 2 engines blow up because of running low on oil. I know one guy who is the service manager where I take my truck (I used to work with him) and his Santa Fe blew up. As far as he said it was not low on oil but he may not have wanted to admit if he did let it get low because he got a warranty engine replacement.
Based on the number of people who don't check oil these days and no low oil warning on these vehicles, the number could be somewhere near 100% of failures were caused by low oil level.
My wife's 2013 is near 100k miles now and still doesn't use any oil. It used to smell like fuel when she short tripped it and it would turn black immediately after a change. Now it stays as clean as I can imagine a GDI engine staying and no real fuel smell. I should eventually send a UOA out.
I never really trusted it but I'm starting to think it might be one of the ones that goes 200k. Especially with our 3-5k mile synthetic oil change regimen. And I do the changes so it gets an extra long drain.
It's proprietary, and since there isn't a patent filing for it, the trade secret will never come out.What is this new proprietary additive they're using?
I understand, I didn't think you were knocking my choices. I appreciate your thoughtfulness.I wasn’t knocking your choices; I know you’re trying the best you know how. Your investment in the car is clear… somehow somebody thought I meant for you to purposely drain new oil which was clearly not the intent. Let your current fill run its course.
Since you’re “all-in” on this car, have you considered reading the thread on HPL Engine Cleaner?
1) Have you replaced the PCV valve? It's the easiest thing to do.I don't know if anything, even an engine rebuild will accomplish that. But that's the goal. And if it takes up to that to accomplish it, so be it.
Don’t start with regular HPL; in your case trying to stop oil burning, start with the EC30; you substitute one quart of regular oil with one quart of EC when you do your oil change.I understand, I didn't think you were knocking my choices. I appreciate your thoughtfulness.
I'm cautious about these super premium boutique oils. Amsoil SS did better than Quaker State but I was still losing a quart every 1000 miles. I'd be interested to try HPL, if the car starts burning less. The goal is to get it to burn 1 qt or less in one drain interval, about 4000 miles.
I don't know if anything, even an engine rebuild will accomplish that. But that's the goal. And if it takes up to that to accomplish it, so be it.
Aren't you an HPL guy? HPL uses extremely high amounts of moly relative to other brands in all their blends, except for the Euro line which has almost nothing.