Hey sir You stole my punchline Redline to the house !!
Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)
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Burla?? Is that you??
Obviously you DIDN’T read the details, or else you would have already known he added RP and Gumout fuel additives, and BG EPR into the oil, along with using a can of intake valve cleaner. No way to separate them now. Let it burn off as usual and then move to the heavier grade, less expensive oil.
I want to see how it performs before I decide to stay with it or switch to something else. Seriously, the car runs magnificently. No issues other than it burn oil, at a rate that's actually within Hyundai's limits.
BG EPR was added to the oil before I changed it. My fill before the Restore and Protect was Valvoline EP High Mileage. It was very clean on the dipstick with about 2000 miles on it. So instead of waiting for my oil change to come up I did it early. Because I read that the BG EPR works significantly better on fresh/clean oil than it does on broken down and dirty oil. And I wanted to switch anyways. I was being impatient.
And the CRC was sprayed into the Throttle body while the EPR was cleaning the engine. I did this so there would be effectively less contamination in the fill oil. I was originally going to "rinse" with oil (fill and run for 100 miles or so) but time and money didn't make that practical. I figure any residual chemicals can help the R&P break down deposits
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Would the real Burla please stand up
I wasn’t knocking your choices; I know you’re trying the best you know how. Your investment in the car is clear… somehow somebody thought I meant for you to purposely drain new oil which was clearly not the intent. Let your current fill run its course.I want to see how it performs before I decide to stay with it or switch to something else. Seriously, the car runs magnificently. No issues other than it burn oil, at a rate that's actually within Hyundai's limits.
BG EPR was added to the oil before I changed it. My fill before the Restore and Protect was Valvoline EP High Mileage. It was very clean on the dipstick with about 2000 miles on it. So instead of waiting for my oil change to come up I did it early. Because I read that the BG EPR works significantly better on fresh/clean oil than it does on broken down and dirty oil. And I wanted to switch anyways. I was being impatient.
And the CRC was sprayed into the Throttle body while the EPR was cleaning the engine. I did this so there would be effectively less contamination in the fill oil. I was originally going to "rinse" with oil (fill and run for 100 miles or so) but time and money didn't make that practical. I figure any residual chemicals can help the R&P break down deposits
Since you’re “all-in” on this car, have you considered reading the thread on HPL Engine Cleaner?
I wish we knew how many of these 2.4 theta 2 engines blow up because of running low on oil. I know one guy who is the service manager where I take my truck (I used to work with him) and his Santa Fe blew up. As far as he said it was not low on oil but he may not have wanted to admit if he did let it get low because he got a warranty engine replacement.
Based on the number of people who don't check oil these days and no low oil warning on these vehicles, the number could be somewhere near 100% of failures were caused by low oil level.
My wife's 2013 is near 100k miles now and still doesn't use any oil. It used to smell like fuel when she short tripped it and it would turn black immediately after a change. Now it stays as clean as I can imagine a GDI engine staying and no real fuel smell. I should eventually send a UOA out.
I never really trusted it but I'm starting to think it might be one of the ones that goes 200k. Especially with our 3-5k mile synthetic oil change regimen. And I do the changes so it gets an extra long drain.
My final thoughts on this oil are we simply don't know enough about it to say one way or the other. On the one hand, the claims they make about it being "revolutionary" or "groundbreaking" or "only motor oil that can clean" are derived from their own testing done on the modified IIIH test. Maybe it's true, maybe it's not. Only they have access to that data. Keep in mind they're talking about off the shelf products not the high solvency higher end oils like Amsoil SS/HPL.
We know their Premium Blue Restore Gen2 is a PAO/V based oil that can clean in one change. That's actually a more potent oil for cleaning. The Restore & Protect is likely less aggressive and accomplishes this at a slower rate over time (hence 4 oci's). Looking at a VOA won't tell you much as they could be using some new additive.
We know their Premium Blue Restore Gen2 is a PAO/V based oil that can clean in one change. That's actually a more potent oil for cleaning. The Restore & Protect is likely less aggressive and accomplishes this at a slower rate over time (hence 4 oci's). Looking at a VOA won't tell you much as they could be using some new additive.
I'm on the Hyundai forums as well, and most threads are people having trouble codes (CEL) for something related to that stupid knock sensor or oil consumption/seized engines.
Most of them find out they were just negligent, and weren't topping off the oil. Some of them didn't even know their car burned oil.
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A brother of my sister in law had a 2.4 that went south, and this guy is meticulous when it comes to maintenance. Not a chance he ran that out of oil. Anecdotal of course.
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It's proprietary, and since there isn't a patent filing for it, the trade secret will never come out.
I understand, I didn't think you were knocking my choices. I appreciate your thoughtfulness.
I'm cautious about these super premium boutique oils. Amsoil SS did better than Quaker State but I was still losing a quart every 1000 miles. I'd be interested to try HPL, if the car starts burning less. The goal is to get it to burn 1 qt or less in one drain interval, about 4000 miles.
I don't know if anything, even an engine rebuild will accomplish that. But that's the goal. And if it takes up to that to accomplish it, so be it.
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1) Have you replaced the PCV valve? It's the easiest thing to do.
2) Have you ever done a CRC Intake Valve cleanup? Try it, and if white smoke comes out the tailpipe than you have a carbon buildup problem. If that's the case, spend some good money on Red Line SI-1 and use two bottles per fill-up, at least the first two tanks, then one bottle. Do this for 4~5 tanks of gas. If nothing else, it will boost the octane rating of the gas and give you some more pep. This process should clean your cylinders.
3) Get yourself a some HPL Engine Cleaner EC30 and put a quart in together with the Valvoline R&P. Engine Cleaner is a fully formulated motor oil using a heavy duty additive package, and it's made mostly of Esters and doesn't gave any VII. So it's as clean as it can be. It will increase the solubility of the Valvoline, so if the R&P breaks carbon deposits loose, Engine Cleaner will dissolve them.
4) Install an Oil Catch Can. It's very easy to do on that engine. Maybe this is the first thing you should do, as it will give you an idea if you have too much blowby or if the PCV valve is shot.
Don’t start with regular HPL; in your case trying to stop oil burning, start with the EC30; you substitute one quart of regular oil with one quart of EC when you do your oil change.
I’d use the EC30 because it’s thicker and will resist evaporation- for the work you’re hoping to accomplish, the longer it’s in the sump the more cleaning it will do. It’s a gentle but effective cleaner that will get to the oil rings and hopefully get them unstuck (if that’s the cause of the burning). Freeing them up and clearing the oil drain holes in the piston is beneficial. It’s also the most cost effective way to try to correct your issue- it’s like $15/quart and you only need one. Plus, its base oils and add pack will be far better than any shelf-stock oil. Go to advlubrication.com and use code BITOG15 in checkout for 15% off!
Side note: there may be some posts after this crying that I’m an HPL “fanboy”, but I like stuff that’s proven and actually works. I think the EC is a much better value for you at this point than their regular oils, since you’re burning quite a bit. Keep the cost low but try a proven way that may help; if you get to the point the burning is greatly reduced, then just move to whatever oil fits your fancy but a thicker grade will definitely help with reducing your engine’s usage.
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I took a more simple pragmatic approach to switch to HPL oils on my vehicle.
Old oil flushed with BG EPR > New retail oil with HPL EC30 > Inspect & replace filter at half the oil service life > Drain oil at end of service life & inspect filter > New HPL oil in.
If I took in a used vehicle, I wouldn't mind doing a double EPR flush with some cheap SuperTech oil before going with a temporary retail oil + HPL EC for the final prep cleaning cycle then move to HPL or any other proven high solvency oil such as Amsoil.
Just sharing my plan of attack.
Old oil flushed with BG EPR > New retail oil with HPL EC30 > Inspect & replace filter at half the oil service life > Drain oil at end of service life & inspect filter > New HPL oil in.
If I took in a used vehicle, I wouldn't mind doing a double EPR flush with some cheap SuperTech oil before going with a temporary retail oil + HPL EC for the final prep cleaning cycle then move to HPL or any other proven high solvency oil such as Amsoil.
Just sharing my plan of attack.
I did the EC30 in 3 vehicles. The 2 higher mileage ones showed a lot more carbon stuff getting cleaned out and caught in filter. They are on their 2nd round of EC30. None of them really burned any oil before and don't now. They all got a BG EPR flush last year also and lots of full synthetic. I'd like to try the R&P maybe at some point but with current stash that won't happen for a long time.
My current attack plan after the current EC30 rounds are done is the PP and M1 I have on hand with 1 qt of HPL PCMO 5W-30 in them.
If I change oil for my neighbor or anything I'll try to steer him toward the R&P as I know he is not great on maintenance. If it works it may help, HPL would be a waste on him.
Accord currently has 1x HPL PCMO 5W-30 and about 4x M1 0W-40. 1200+ miles with 102k on it looks good and still clean to me when I filled up earlier today.
My current attack plan after the current EC30 rounds are done is the PP and M1 I have on hand with 1 qt of HPL PCMO 5W-30 in them.
If I change oil for my neighbor or anything I'll try to steer him toward the R&P as I know he is not great on maintenance. If it works it may help, HPL would be a waste on him.
Accord currently has 1x HPL PCMO 5W-30 and about 4x M1 0W-40. 1200+ miles with 102k on it looks good and still clean to me when I filled up earlier today.
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If someone already answered this my bad. This thread has grown 10 pages im trying to catch up. Idk how you got their euro line barely has moly but they definitely have a lot of it.
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