And even moreso, there is no API grade that would be "too" thick as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the starting temperatures. You may not need a 50-grade in terms of film thickness but it's not going to harm the engine.Nope, the difference between a 40 grade and 30 grade at operating temps is very minor, especially when compared to the difference in viscosity between a cold 20 grade and an operating-temp 20 grade. Your engine won’t even notice; the manufacturer makes all recommendations in the US based off of CAFE credits, not engine longevity.
Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)
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That makes sense, but what about during the warmup phase? The 40 grade is quite a bit thicker than 20 grade when cold, correct?Nope, the difference between a 40 grade and 30 grade at operating temps is very minor, especially when compared to the difference in viscosity between a cold 20 grade and an operating-temp 20 grade. Your engine won’t even notice; the manufacturer makes all recommendations in the US based off of CAFE credits, not engine longevity.
And engine clearances are correspondingly larger when the engine is cold. If it’s really cold, that’s where the winter rating of the oil comes in.
Snake oil comes in different flavors.
What makes you say that? Just curious. I've seen a lot of marketing claims over the years. This could very well be just that.
I'd like to know more about this test - modified IIIH. 1a to 4b I'm assuming was the result of the test. I'd like to know the interval they used and what is this new proprietary additive they're using.
Buster, can you provide that specific link with the pic in it? Those are at least 3 different types of pistons (top left 2, top right 2, and all 4 on the bottom appear to be different sets), so I’d like to read the wording attached to those claims. Thanks!
I see some ridges on the lower ones but not the top. They look different.
Look at the balance pads and the wrist pin bore diameters also
They look very different.
You don't really have anything to restore yet. Ask again in 300,000 miles
You can find documentation for that test via google search.
https://www.astmtmc.org/ftp/docs/ga..._ils/IIIH/Archive/Seq IIIH_Oct 3 2016 (2).pdf
As far as I understand the test would be looking at a clean new piston and evaluating any additional deposits.
The fact that its modified means it started from a piston that already had deposits.
Thanks. That's what they are claiming. They ran an engine from 100k to 300k miles and compared results.
I don’t mean to sound cynical, it’s motor oil in a new flavor. My guess is that this it for those that have issues with newer motors with sticky piston rings. This jogs my memory back to when I heard radio ads for motor honey or friction proofing. At first I’m thinking this is for neglected motors or with newer DI motors where this is common, it’s not our fault. So far my Mazda is not having this problem. Actually I thought that changes made to SP were take care of this. Maybe I’m naive?
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Waiting for post 675
Anything special for #676?Here ya go.
By your logic, that would make HPL oil the, even less special, purple haired cousin of the red haired mermaid.
Jedi mind tricks don't work on all of us.
You have just been convinced of something you should NOT do.
The Valvoline R&P 5w-30 will be fine in your engine. You've already invested in it, wanted to try it, now CONTINUE to use it and see what results you get. If you next switch to QS 5w-40 you won't know anything.
Where did anyone tell him NOT to use the R&P he’s already poured in? They haven’t. If you actually read the detail, his car is burning a quart every thousand miles, which means the R&P will be gone from his sump before his next OCI in 4k.
I read the details. He should continue using R&P and making sure it's full WITH R&P only, no additives.
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