Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)

[SubieRubyRoo]

I'm new here. What oil do you run in subarus? I've got a 22 wrx

I assume you’re still under warranty, so for now for ease of mind I’d run one of the top shelf 0w20s from WM if warranty is a concern.

If it’s not, or you don’t trust Subaru, you could run M1 0w40 for shelf availability, or run HPL or Amsoil 0w30s, and change based on UOA results for oil staying in grade.

 

[Fa24wrx]

I assume you’re still under warranty, so for now for ease of mind I’d run one of the top shelf 0w20s from WM if warranty is a concern.

If it’s not, or you don’t trust Subaru, you could run M1 0w40 for shelf availability, or run HPL or Amsoil 0w30s, and change based on UOA results for oil staying in grade.

I've been running motul 0w20. I'm about to switch to the valvoline restore and protect 0w20

 

[350Rocket]

I've been running motul 0w20. I'm about to switch to the valvoline restore and protect 0w20

Why not stick with Motul? You don't have anything to restore on a 2022....if you bought Motul, it's obviously because you want to keep it for a long time so other options in that top shelf range are HPL, Redline, Amsoil. At least those are the ones I group up there with Motul.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Why not stick with Motul? You don't have anything to restore on a 2022....if you bought Motul, it's obviously because you want to keep it for a long time so other options in that top shelf range are HPL, Redline, Amsoil. At least those are the ones I group up there with Motul.

From my understanding, valvoline is really good too. And while it's relatively new, it has 21k miles and there's bound to be some carbon deposits, etc. My thought is to run it to "restore" (if they really do as claimed. And run it a cycle or two and do a UOA. Also, with their deal, I got 15qt for $63 and free shipping. That's $21 per jug. I don't mind paying for premium oil but that's pretty good considering it's also a high quality oil.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

From my understanding, valvoline is really good too. And while it's relatively new, it has 21k miles and there's bound to be some carbon deposits, etc. My thought is to run it to "restore" (if they really do as claimed. And run it a cycle or two and do a UOA. Also, with their deal, I got 15qt for $63 and free shipping. That's $21 per jug. I don't mind paying for premium oil but that's pretty good considering it's also a high quality oil.

From a guy with direct insider knowledge re: Restore & Protect:

It’s a wonderful piece of Valvoline marketing.

But I can say with complete confidence it’s a group 3 product with a slightly tweaked additive package. Nothing game changing or anything special.

Depending on which Motul you were using, there’s little doubt that it was at least as good as anything in the Restore & Protect jug.

 

[Fa24wrx]

From a guy with direct insider knowledge re: Restore & Protect:


Depending on which Motul you were using, there’s little doubt that it was at least as good as anything in the Restore & Protect jug.

I hope it does what's claimed but, if nothing else, it's a really good oil that I paid less than $5/qt.. sorry, what does group 3 mean?

 

[Fa24wrx]

From a guy with direct insider knowledge re: Restore & Protect:


Depending on which Motul you were using, there’s little doubt that it was at least as good as anything in the Restore & Protect jug.

Motul 0w20 eco lite I believe

 

[I<3oil]

From a guy with direct insider knowledge re: Restore & Protect:


Depending on which Motul you were using, there’s little doubt that it was at least as good as anything in the Restore & Protect jug.

That guy owns his family’s oil company. You could say “direct insider knowledge” lol

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Valvoline you purchased is not an equal to the Motul Eco Lite used prior..... not after 4 oil changes or 14.

There's more to what comprises a motor oil than it's cleaning power in an already somewhat clean engine.

 

[350Rocket]

I hope it does what's claimed but, if nothing else, it's a really good oil that I paid less than $5/qt.. sorry, what does group 3 mean?

In my opinion 21k miles is basically brand new still. I'm driving a 254k mile 19 year old Silverado with over 11,000 hours, basically equivalent of 500k miles of easy highway driving...I just can't imagine having a 21k mile engine and worrying about deposits unless you only did one oil change so far, but that seems unlikely since you're here worrying about it.
This discussion is about whether or not this oil might be a bargain if you need to do some cleaning over some short oil change intervals, but IMO any Valvoline oil is not on par with Motul, Redline, Amsoil, HPL, etc. they just aren't targeting the same audience. If you were using Motul (not sure which Motul) chances are you have nothing to clean or worry about. Use the Valvoline you bought and switch back to Motul or go with Amsoil, HPL, redline, whatever.

 

[buster]

I think it’s an interesting take on actually doing something slightly different. And actually doing (a bit modified) real testing on it.

I’m curious what compromise they made in the formulation to be able to get it done. But, that’s for them to know and me not to. Trade secrets and all.

I'm guessing most of the off-the-shelf oils can't actually do this. They can prevent deposits, but not clean piston deposits. They can clean sludge but that's likely where it stops. They're dry and don't contain enough of the higher end base oils that have the solvency needed to do this (HPL/AmsoilSS/RL etc.). Hence the cost of those oils. Even their own Premium Restore oil was expensive and built on high POE content.

This was from jobbersworld.

 

[demarpaint]

I'm guessing most of the off-the-shelf oils can't actually do this. They can prevent deposits, but not clean piston deposits. They can clean sludge but that's likely where it stops. They're dry and don't contain enough of the higher end base oils that have the solvency needed to do this. Hence the cost of those oils. Even their own Premium Restore oil was expensive and built on high POE content.

This was from jobbersworld.

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If true it looks good to me.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Define “extra” moly? I guess that’s the question.

Either way.

https://www.stle.org/files/TLTArchi...bsiteKey=a70334df-8659-42fd-a3bd-be406b5b83e5

Edit:

https://www.stle.org/files/TLTArchi...bsiteKey=a70334df-8659-42fd-a3bd-be406b5b83e5

What off the shelf oil (0w20) would you recommend? Or should I use this one jug of restore and protect then go back to motul?

 

[Fa24wrx]

In my opinion 21k miles is basically brand new still. I'm driving a 254k mile 19 year old Silverado with over 11,000 hours, basically equivalent of 500k miles of easy highway driving...I just can't imagine having a 21k mile engine and worrying about deposits unless you only did one oil change so far, but that seems unlikely since you're here worrying about it.
This discussion is about whether or not this oil might be a bargain if you need to do some cleaning over some short oil change intervals, but IMO any Valvoline oil is not on par with Motul, Redline, Amsoil, HPL, etc. they just aren't targeting the same audience. If you were using Motul (not sure which Motul) chances are you have nothing to clean or worry about. Use the Valvoline you bought and switch back to Motul or go with Amsoil, HPL, redline, whatever.

So it'll be fine to run this oil for 3k-3.5k then go back to motul? Do you recommend the others (amsoil, hpl, RL) over motul? Or is it not a big difference?

 

[350Rocket]

So it'll be fine to run this oil for 3k-3.5k then go back to motul? Do you recommend the others (amsoil, hpl, RL) over motul? Or is it not a big difference?

Yeah it's certainly not going to hurt anything but I'd prefer any of those other options if you're looking for the best possible protection over the long term. I would pick based on price and convenience. HPL is probably the best one but for me it's not an option because of shipping prices. Otherwise they all make different oils for different applications, and some may be better than others but I would put the brands themselves on a pretty level field.

I buy mobil 1 0w40 FS because I consider it the closest in quality to those for half the price when I buy it locally on sale.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

So it'll be fine to run this oil for 3k-3.5k then go back to motul? Do you recommend the others (amsoil, hpl, RL) over motul? Or is it not a big difference?

Motul eco-lite that you had is decent. HPL actually created a top-line 0w20 for a board member (@OVERKILL Supercar 0w20) but ironically enough, that would be overkill for your application. Their PCMO is plenty good, but you could step up to their Premium line if you need low temp capabilities (colder than -40*). Amsoil SS is top notch as well; the Redline oils are generally seen as shorter OCI capable but are still good.

In all reality, in stock form, M1 EP and changed based on UOA results will be plenty, but most here would agree in stepping up to a 30 or 40 grade to maintain sufficient film thickness if you drive it hard. Keep the oil fresh and use good oil and air filters. Once modified, a 30 grade should be considered your new minimum.

In other words, keeping oxidation under control and keeping the oil in grade during use are the most important things to ensure a happy life; you can always spend more on oil if you want but the best way is to find the cheapest oil that maintains protection for your usage and OCI mileage and go with that.

 

[350Rocket]

So it'll be fine to run this oil for 3k-3.5k then go back to motul? Do you recommend the others (amsoil, hpl, RL) over motul? Or is it not a big difference?

Should have asked already, and maybe you already said this but what type of driving and how long between changes?

 

[Foxtrot08]

What off the shelf oil (0w20) would you recommend? Or should I use this one jug of restore and protect then go back to motul?

Whatever you change regularly.

I don’t over think PCEO products. All of them that meet specs are more than good enough.

 

[Foxtrot08]

I'm guessing most of the off-the-shelf oils can't actually do this. They can prevent deposits, but not clean piston deposits. They can clean sludge but that's likely where it stops. They're dry and don't contain enough of the higher end base oils that have the solvency needed to do this (HPL/AmsoilSS/RL etc.). Hence the cost of those oils. Even their own Premium Restore oil was expensive and built on high POE content.

This was from jobbersworld.

View attachment 200253

So the counter question I will pose to you:

Why would an oil get to that varnish level to begin with?

Here’s some pictures of a 2003 CAT C15 currently getting rebuilt in my shop. It has 1.2-1.3 million miles on it. It has not been rebuilt before, we’ve owned it for approximately ~900,000 of those miles.

Mind you, yes a diesel engine. But, no major varnish build up on any of the parts.

Varnish build up shouldn’t happen if you’re changing your oil regularly, using on spec oil, and keeping your vehicle in decent working order. You might have a little more build up if you’re using super cheap synthetic blends all the time.

However, judging by the posts here, if you’re using basically anyone’s full synthetic and changing it regularly. You’re not going to see varnish happen over the life time of the engine. You’re going to see a metal fatigue issue first, or a contamination issue happen well before you see an oil based failure. That’s why I posted these pictures.

Varnish isn’t an issue in diesel engines, after a million miles. Why would it be an issue for a car after 100k? Or 200k?

That’s why I called this a wonderful piece of marketing. Because it’s making you believe you have a problem, that they’re going to solve.

This is a problem that in reality for most people, doesn’t exist. 6 months ago at your last oil change, using whatever full synthetic, you probably didn’t stop and think “hey, you know what? I bet I have a varnish problem in my engine. I sure wish I had an engine oil to clean this all up.”


Valvoline sells because of marketing. And it’s fine. On the installer side they have great signage and coupon programs, with awful contracts that lock the installer into gallons and years of contracts because of their marketing. On the DIY side, they market a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. Again, not saying this is a bad product. I’m just pointing out they’re a great marketing company. And the way you sell a product, is to solve a problem.

Much like Snickers markets their candy bars, they solve the problem of hunger. But we all know that eating a snickers when you’re hungry isn’t the greatest solution, nor is it the best thing for you. Does it work? Yup. Does this oil work? Yup. Do you actually have a problem? Nope.

If you choose to buy this product, cool. It’s a good product. Won’t do you any harm at all. And you know you’re getting something that’s been looked at by an additive manufacturer and a blender pretty well.

 

[buster]

So the counter question I will pose to you:

Why would an oil get to that varnish level to begin with?

Here’s some pictures of a 2003 CAT C15 currently getting rebuilt in my shop. It has 1.2-1.3 million miles on it. It has not been rebuilt before, we’ve owned it for approximately ~900,000 of those miles.

Mind you, yes a diesel engine. But, no major varnish build up on any of the parts.

Varnish build up shouldn’t happen if you’re changing your oil regularly, using on spec oil, and keeping your vehicle in decent working order. You might have a little more build up if you’re using super cheap synthetic blends all the time.

However, judging by the posts here, if you’re using basically anyone’s full synthetic and changing it regularly. You’re not going to see varnish happen over the life time of the engine. You’re going to see a metal fatigue issue first, or a contamination issue happen well before you see an oil based failure. That’s why I posted these pictures.

Varnish isn’t an issue in diesel engines, after a million miles. Why would it be an issue for a car after 100k? Or 200k?

That’s why I called this a wonderful piece of marketing. Because it’s making you believe you have a problem, that they’re going to solve.

This is a problem that in reality for most people, doesn’t exist. 6 months ago at your last oil change, using whatever full synthetic, you probably didn’t stop and think “hey, you know what? I bet I have a varnish problem in my engine. I sure wish I had an engine oil to clean this all up.”


Valvoline sells because of marketing. And it’s fine. On the installer side they have great signage and coupon programs, with awful contracts that lock the installer into gallons and years of contracts because of their marketing. On the DIY side, they market a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. Again, not saying this is a bad product. I’m just pointing out they’re a great marketing company. And the way you sell a product, is to solve a problem.

Much like Snickers markets their candy bars, they solve the problem of hunger. But we all know that eating a snickers when you’re hungry isn’t the greatest solution, nor is it the best thing for you. Does it work? Yup. Does this oil work? Yup. Do you actually have a problem? Nope.

If you choose to buy this product, cool. It’s a good product. Won’t do you any harm at all. And you know you’re getting something that’s been looked at by an additive manufacturer and a blender pretty well.

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View attachment 200260

Yeah I completely agree that if you're using a good oil and changing when you should be, then it's really nothing of concern. I'm not using it and really don't care for the Valvoline brand for reasons you've stated. But I'll still follow what other companies are doing etc. I enjoy discussing/reading about oil technology so when something new comes along I find it interesting to see what it's about.