Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)

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Moly is not even necessary to formulate a perfect and a balanced oil. In fact, some of the Mercedes approved oils don't utilize Moly at all.
That’s kinda my point. I actually agree that I generally agree more moly (in the right form) generally indicates a higher-quality oil, but if it costs more because of the moly content, there’s almost zero hard evidence to justify the expenditure if you’re comparing two otherwise equally certified oils. 👍🏻
 
are there not different types of moly for engine oils as manufactures/blenders use, that have a effect on how much is blended in? ,also in correlation with the type of base oils, boron etc along with sulfurized esters ? and other proprietary ingredients,,,so does Vavoline have a different combination?? ,just need to see in the long run with more sophisticated lab testing
 
That’s kinda my point. I actually agree that I generally agree more moly (in the right form) generally indicates a higher-quality oil, but if it costs more because of the moly content, there’s almost zero hard evidence to justify the expenditure if you’re comparing two otherwise equally certified oils. 👍🏻
But

My tried and true Redline with high Moly performs better by EAR and by UOA
So yes I’m high moly fan !👍😳
 
@Foxtrot08 Amongst Energy Conserving motor oils, how is High Mileage oil different than the regular synthetic motor oil? Is it just the addition of more or a more aggressive seal sweller, or is there more to it. I don't think that the marketing department at any of the major blenders does a very good job of explaining what High Mileage motor oil really does. Thank you.
 
@Foxtrot08 Amongst Energy Conserving motor oils, how is High Mileage oil different than the regular synthetic motor oil? Is it just the addition of more or a more aggressive seal sweller, or is there more to it. I don't think that the marketing department at any of the major blenders does a very good job of explaining what High Mileage motor oil really does. Thank you.

There’s such a variation of high mileage motor oils, that, “it depends.”

There are certain products that are formulated from the ground up. These products will have the seal swell additives, they might also include a different base oil blend, changing the viscosity a bit.

…. Or it could literally be the “high mileage” additive dumped into the blend of your normal product. And called a day.

There’s no real “standard” for high mileage products. It’s more a marketing thing and (presumably) the seal swell additive(s). So it’s hard to say.

I will say, I had one blender, literally just dump buckets of their “high mileage” additive into my trailers as it was being loaded. And that was the difference between their normal product and their high mileage product.

I don’t do business with them anymore.
 
There’s no real “standard” for high mileage products. It’s more a marketing thing and (presumably) the seal swell additive(s). So it’s hard to say.
I got an engine that has some funny CVVT seals that will shrink with pretty much any ILSAC motor oil, and then the engine will rattle at startup. If I use an A3/B4 oil, they seem to shrink less, so there is less drainage when the engine is off, especially in winter. If I use Mobil 1 EP High Mileage 5W-30 (it calls for 5W-30 or 5W-40), there is no drainage, as I never hear it rattle at startup, regardless if it's summer or winter.

I guess my question is: what else is special (or different when compared to regular add packs) about a "High Mileage" additive package, beside the seal swellers? Thank you.
 
I got an engine that has some funny CVVT seals that will shrink with pretty much any ILSAC motor oil, and then the engine will rattle at startup. If I use an A3/B4 oil, they seem to shrink less, so there is less drainage when the engine is off, especially in winter. If I use Mobil 1 EP High Mileage 5W-30 (it calls for 5W-30 or 5W-40), there is no drainage, as I never hear it rattle at startup, regardless if it's summer or winter.

I guess my question is: what else is special (or different when compared to regular add packs) about a "High Mileage" additive package, beside the seal swellers? Thank you.

I had an answer. But honestly I’ve been up for a while. So I started writing it out and became a space cadet rambling about solubilizing additives and such.

I’ll get back with you when it’s not midnight and I can actually formulate a thought. (I’m punny.)
 
I had an answer. But honestly I’ve been up for a while. So I started writing it out and became a space cadet rambling about solubilizing additives and such.

I’ll get back with you when it’s not midnight and I can actually formulate a thought. (I’m punny.)

Thank you, looking forward to it. :)
 
That’s kinda my point. I actually agree that I generally agree more moly (in the right form) generally indicates a higher-quality oil, but if it costs more because of the moly content, there’s almost zero hard evidence to justify the expenditure if you’re comparing two otherwise equally certified oils. 👍🏻

Aren't you an HPL guy? HPL uses extremely high amounts of moly relative to other brands in all their blends, except for the Euro line which has almost nothing.
 
Aren't you an HPL guy? HPL uses extremely high amounts of moly relative to other brands in all their blends, except for the Euro line which has almost nothing.
There is zero cost difference between their oils based on moly level, so refer to my post you quoted. And while we don’t know which type of moly are in some of the OEM’s oils, HPL moly levels are not excessive at all when looking at most factory fills these days.

Besides, I don’t buy HPL for the moly levels. I buy it because their products are formulated without compromising quality to hit an arbitrary price point in order to be able to compete.
 
There is zero cost difference between their oils based on moly level, so refer to my post you quoted. And while we don’t know which type of moly are in some of the OEM’s oils, HPL moly levels are not excessive at all when looking at most factory fills these days.

Besides, I don’t buy HPL for the moly levels. I buy it because their products are formulated without compromising quality to hit an arbitrary price point in order to be able to compete.
I thought Moly helped quiet a noisy engine?
 
There is zero cost difference between their oils based on moly level, so refer to my post you quoted. And while we don’t know which type of moly are in some of the OEM’s oils, HPL moly levels are not excessive at all when looking at most factory fills these days.

Besides, I don’t buy HPL for the moly levels. I buy it because their products are formulated without compromising quality to hit an arbitrary price point in order to be able to compete.

I've never seen factory fills in the 700 to 800 ppm range. 100 to 200 seems high for most other oils, RL is up there to in the 500s.
 
Got a pretty good deal with valvolines discount plus subscribe and save. I'll cancel the subscription too
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[QUOTE="I Mazda is one...I think ~600-700'ish

Toyota is another
[/QUOTE]
Pretty sure some of the Subaru FF UOAs have been in the 700-900ppm as well

Idemitsu has at least one of their 0w20 shelf oils in the 780s on VOAs here IIRC
 
Yeah, I know, it’s been mentioned several times. I was just sharing that if one didn’t own a Subaru they could still easily get a 700+ppm moly oil if they really wanted to. 👍🏻
I'm new here. What oil do you run in subarus? I've got a 22 wrx
 
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