Valvoline Restore and Protect

[Rand]

Unfortunately, didn't take any pics prior. Bought this car used, I am not the first owner.

So how do you know valvoline R&P did anything?

While the engine picture looks clean..
Not sure how you can declare its condition is from VRP?

 

[ChrisD46]

An important thing learned from this VRP thread is before I thought of a clean internal engine without considering oil ring / piston ring carbon coking . *You can have an otherwise clean engine free of varnish and sludge - but if you have carbon coked up or stuck oil control rings then the longevity of the engine will be severely compromised unless action is taken to free up rings to do their job as originally intended .

 

[Glenda W.]

An important thing learned from this VRP thread is before I thought of a clean internal engine without considering oil ring / piston ring carbon coking . *You can have an otherwise clean engine free of varnish and sludge - but if you have carbon coked up or stuck oil control rings then the longevity of the engine will be severely compromised unless action is taken to free up rings to do their job as originally intended .

Exactly what happened to me.

 

[tired]

I Have. Not until recently in this Accord, since I've only owned it since January. But in other vehicles, yes.

Chicago isn't cold enough to need anything more than a 5w, but I'd run a 0w anyway just to get better base oils.

The I'm only running 15w-40 because it's HPL 15w-40, and buying HPL is one of the few ways to ensure that the tighter number spread doesn't just give you really cheap base oils.

If I wasn't running HPL, I'd be running a 0w-40 Euro that's either Castrol Edge or M1 Euro FS.

Is that because they're full SAPS?

If you just have a regular North American gas vehicle with a catalytic converter, is there any reason to use a low SAPS oil?

 

[vegdude1515]

I think people need to read the name... "Restore & Protect" does not mean "Repair & Protect".
It can restore your 100k-200k+ mile engine that has regular usage (not been abused) and regular buildup from use. It's not meant to fix your leaking engine, you might get lucky but it's not the aim of the product. It's for enthusiasts exactly like us I would say, who want to keep their car running at peak performance.

 

[vegdude1515]

I saw somebody mention it earlier in this thread but didn't see anybody with a definitive answer... how does using MoS2 with this effect the "restoring" aspect of the R&P ??? Should it effect it at all?

 

[Hohn]

An important thing learned from this VRP thread is before I thought of a clean internal engine without considering oil ring / piston ring carbon coking . *You can have an otherwise clean engine free of varnish and sludge - but if you have carbon coked up or stuck oil control rings then the longevity of the engine will be severely compromised unless action is taken to free up rings to do their job as originally intended .

Exactly what happened to me.

INDEED. Not only can you have a surgically overhead with stuck piston rings, but you can also have pistons that are relatively OK with a completely nasty looking overhead. While I've posted some dramatic cleaning pics of the overhead of my Odyssey, I can't say that I've seen much change in consumption whatsoever-- this van never really used any noticeable amount even at 200k.

That said, it sure does seem to run smoother and better now and I'm seeing better mileage by 1-2mpg pretty consistently. So it's almost certain the pistons are cleaner.

But the valuable point here is that piston cleanliness and overhead cleanliness can have zero relationship to each other, or even run in opposite directions. Recall that K20c4 teardown with stuck oil control rings and literally every other part of the engine was surgically clean, top to bottom.

 

[buster]

An important thing learned from this VRP thread is before I thought of a clean internal engine without considering oil ring / piston ring carbon coking . *You can have an otherwise clean engine free of varnish and sludge - but if you have carbon coked up or stuck oil control rings then the longevity of the engine will be severely compromised unless action is taken to free up rings to do their job as originally intended .

Prior to HPL and VRP that is what I thought LOL. I can't believe I was that dumb for all those years.

 

[Jetronic]

Could be. I planned to pull the screen and verify when I replace the soleniods.

Continued use might clear the screen again.

 

[Jetronic]

I Have. Not until recently in this Accord, since I've only owned it since January. But in other vehicles, yes.

Chicago isn't cold enough to need anything more than a 5w, but I'd run a 0w anyway just to get better base oils.

The I'm only running 15w-40 because it's HPL 15w-40, and buying HPL is one of the few ways to ensure that the tighter number spread doesn't just give you really cheap base oils.

If I wasn't running HPL, I'd be running a 0w-40 Euro that's either Castrol Edge or M1 Euro FS.

You just described why I bought Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W-30 back in 2013. And why I now also use Ravenol 10W-30 full synthetic.

Moderate amounts of detergents (8.8 tbn for total, 7.9 for ravenol), with a fairly high ratio of zddp to calcium (1:2.5 for total, 1:2 for ravenol) were other reasons to pick those specifically. The total also was MB 229.5 approved.

 

[ChrisD46]

Like most all of us , early in 2010 I was always shopping the synthetic deal of the day , hoarding , etc. (mostly vanilla group III synthetic oils) like QSUD , some Castrol Magnatec and the like before mainly running M1 5W30 EP / M10W30 ESP and always with a 4,000 mile max OCI in Kia / Hyundai engines . The OCI interval probably helped no matter the oil - now running VRP 5W30 in same vehicles for at least a few more OCI’s to clean the rings , optimize VVT passageways , etc. before a possible return to M1 0W30 ESP .

 

[Mainia]

Exactly what happened to me.

Exactly what happened to me too, and jammed rings happened early on my Hyundai. Go figure, “ It’s a Hyundai”.