I corrected it, VRP (Valvoline Restore and Protect)
Valvoline Restore and Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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90 degrees from HRZ?
- Joined
- May 9, 2023
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I really hadn’t given valve seals much of a thought but that makes sense.
No. You can safely run a 3000-6000mi oil change interval with VRP. I’ve run some pretty dirty Hyundai GDI engines with VRP for 6500mi OCIs with no issues. Some build-up in the filter, yes, but nothing to be alarmed about.
Valvoline Restore and Protect Oil Filters Cut Open
Some people suggest to change only your filter after 500-1,000 miles with VRP, but I think that is only valid if your engine has a lot of sludge like the guy on the video below.
If you have just varnish, you don't need to change the filter earlier than the oil. However, I'm planing on changing mine VRP at 4,000 miles.
Here is another video of much cleaner engine where after 5K miles there is no debris in the filter:
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@Hohn didn't have any sludge actually. That is all varnish that broke down and was caught by the filter. Tagging so he can correct me if necessary, but he wasn't burning oil nor had sludge IIRC.
@Mav123 - as mentioned by others, some do a filter change at 500-1000 miles, but completely plugged filters are pretty rare with VRP. The cleaning is designed to be gentle and slow.
I didn't mean to post this video.
I watched another video (you posted somewhere on here) about 30 min. long, where one guy with 98-00 Civic does two oil changes with VRP and cut his oil filter apart. His engine was full of sludge below the valve cover and he showed pictures.
I cannot find that video on youtube now. It is quite interesting.
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I just re-listened to the video with the Valvoline engineer saying VRP will every so slightly possibly help back of valve carbonizing. Then he mentioned they have OEM "professional products" that may even go the next step in reducing this carbon.
Does anyone have a link to these OEM "professional Valvoline de-carbonizing products"? I want to do some testing.
Does anyone have a link to these OEM "professional Valvoline de-carbonizing products"? I want to do some testing.
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- Joined
- Apr 13, 2025
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- 375
I first tried VRP about two months ago after reading some pretty impressive posts on this and other forums.
After about 1000 miles in two vehicles using it, I removed my valve covers on one of them today to change injectors and do some other work.
I must say, the insides were cleaner than I have ever seen them.
That said, I did a compression check on an engine with 300k miles and one cylinder was a bit low. I did an inspection with my new borescope and the crown of the piston looked pretty bad with carbon deposits so maybe it's better than it was or that cylinder could have a problem.
Still, I'm a believer because the valve covers and heads and rocker assemblies were so clean inside.
After about 1000 miles in two vehicles using it, I removed my valve covers on one of them today to change injectors and do some other work.
I must say, the insides were cleaner than I have ever seen them.
That said, I did a compression check on an engine with 300k miles and one cylinder was a bit low. I did an inspection with my new borescope and the crown of the piston looked pretty bad with carbon deposits so maybe it's better than it was or that cylinder could have a problem.
Still, I'm a believer because the valve covers and heads and rocker assemblies were so clean inside.
Impressive considering the oil you normally use. In my experience all the Valvoline oils start off very quiet.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2025
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- 84
Just did second R&P oil change. 2013 Buick LaCrosse 2.4 with 50k miles. We also cleaned the PCV orifice.
Draining R&P from first change, old oil with 5k miles was jet black but filter didn't have any visual particles.
Engine idles quieter and smoother after oil change. I thought other oils were quieter on this car.
Can't say if the Valvoline R&P is snake oil or doing anything. But given the 2.4s problem with piston rings, it is not a terrible bet for us. YMMV.
OT - This engine is notorious for clogged PCV orifice, clogged low-tension oil control rings, and oil consumption (seemingly the cause of blown rear main seals and wrecked timing chains). I suspect a clogged PCV system is the primary problem but nobody knows. GM had a replacement program for some pistons and rings plus a PCV cleaning service note. There are a lot fewer 2.4s on the road these days.
Draining R&P from first change, old oil with 5k miles was jet black but filter didn't have any visual particles.
Engine idles quieter and smoother after oil change. I thought other oils were quieter on this car.
Can't say if the Valvoline R&P is snake oil or doing anything. But given the 2.4s problem with piston rings, it is not a terrible bet for us. YMMV.
OT - This engine is notorious for clogged PCV orifice, clogged low-tension oil control rings, and oil consumption (seemingly the cause of blown rear main seals and wrecked timing chains). I suspect a clogged PCV system is the primary problem but nobody knows. GM had a replacement program for some pistons and rings plus a PCV cleaning service note. There are a lot fewer 2.4s on the road these days.
Exactly correct. No sludge at all that I could see. Nor was there any noticeable consumption. But my oh my was there ever a LOT of varnish! I say “was” because it’s a mostly gone now! Here’s the “before” and “after” for a year, although the “before” is actually a month into the VRP run and you can see the first hints of cleaning.
It looks like the VRP has the highest levels of Boron of all other Valvoline oils at about 188 ppm. That definitely matters. The closest oil to the VRP regarding the Boron is the Valvoline High Mileage/MaxLive Syn about 157 ppm (info in the link and the video below).
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-restore-and-protect-5w-30-voa.394716/
Additionally to the cleaning properties, the Boron supposedly keeps the TBN high for longer period of time and don't allow the oil to oxidate quickly.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boric_acid
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-restore-and-protect-5w-30-voa.394716/
Additionally to the cleaning properties, the Boron supposedly keeps the TBN high for longer period of time and don't allow the oil to oxidate quickly.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boric_acid
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax
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This morning was the first relatively cool morning (53F) we've had in quite some time. The 3.6L in the Colorado isn't super loud to begin with, but you do get that injector/piston slap sound occasionally on cold starts. Completely absent with VRP. Truck has never been as quiet on a cold start. I'll be curious how it changes over time with even colder weather and fuel dilution.
I've noticed the same in my Subaru, the slap is there but less so and more dull sounding. How much of the slap is cold ring sticking noises is unknown
I've only got ~100 miles on my first VRP fill, but it sure seems like my N* is quieter than it was on the Castrol 5w-40. I have a cheap Amazon decibel meter, and meant to take a completely unscientific readings in my closed garage before and after changing the oil but I was too excited in the moment.
Well after two runs of just over 4K miles on VRP on my Highlander, apart from the fact that the 5w30 is not being consumed at a faster rate than the 40 grade I was using previously, I'm not seeing any decrease in consumption. It is still about 2/3 quart in around 4000 miles, which was the same rate as the Mobil 40 grade I had in it prior to using VRP. I have one more jug that I'll pour in. Probably one reason I'm not seeing a big decrease is that the consumption wasn't that great to begin with.
I'm trying it now. Just bought my Son a 2003 5.4 F150 with 200K on the clock and the PO said it used a Qt every 2500 miles. The PO was the original owner and had always ran some sort of Pennzoil 5-30 in it, gave us a partial jug of Pen 5-30 high milage. So I'm gonna run the VRP for 5K and see if there is any difference.
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