Valvoline Restore and Protect 2AZ-FE Observations & Questions

[50yr Street Mech]

Awww. No fair..Nice and clean. I got globs of oil on one valve. You never told me the year of the 2AZ-FE ???? I didn't know PEA could leave a mess on a piston head. Thanks for the heads up

 

[NITester]

Adding the PEA is the only thing I had done differently when that shot was taken. My 2AZ-FE is a 2006 which isn't supposed to have the ring problem, but I bought it used at 50,000 and don't know how it was treated. I've always changed the oil between 3-4000. It runs good. The Valvoline has made a difference in how it runs too, quiet cold starts, smoother idle.

I'm looking for the BG EPR locally. Maybe a shop can sell me a can. I can either wait out the 4 oil changes with the Valvoline (I'm sticking with it no matter what), do a soak with Berryman's, or try the EPR.

 

[panthermike]

If it were mine, I would do a Piston soak at the end of current interval. Then keep running VRP and go from there. It's entirely possible that VRP alone will continue to improve the consumption. Impressive results so far, love seeing the before/after compression testing.

 

[panthermike]

Adding the PEA is the only thing I had done differently when that shot was taken. My 2AZ-FE is a 2006 which isn't supposed to have the ring problem, but I bought it used at 50,000 and don't know how it was treated. I've always changed the oil between 3-4000. It runs good. The Valvoline has made a difference in how it runs too, quiet cold starts, smoother idle.

I'm looking for the BG EPR locally. Maybe a shop can sell me a can. I can either wait out the 4 oil changes with the Valvoline (I'm sticking with it no matter what), do a soak with Berryman's, or try the EPR.

Another note I forgot to make on my last post: sometimes EPR can help with consumption but not always. My Corolla is at 260k miles now, uses about 1/2- 2/3 of a quart every 3000 miles. I ran EPR at 247k for 25 minutes. It didn't make any difference on the consumption. This isn't very high usage, I'm not concerned. But sometime in the next 1-2 thousand miles I'll be putting VRP in it to see how it does.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

You can get BG EPR PN 109 anywhere. Just type it into google. I usually get mine from E-Bay or Scamazon, whoever is runnin the better deal. Cleaned up my 13' Honda CRV in just 2 OCI's !!!! The thing was blowing blue smoke out the tail CONSTANTLY. The more gas you give it, the more smoke. Coked rings. I use it EVERY oil change now. Oil level never drops in between OCI's. 614, 909 miles. The 06' 2AZ-FE DOES NOT have the piston ring issue. That started in 2007.,,,they switched to low tension rings due to CAFE standards.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in my Toyota with the 2AZ-FE and I'm almost 3000 miles into the second interval. I changed the first at 3000 miles and I'm questioning whether to change again at 3000 miles or go to 4000. The reason for thinking it can go to 4000 miles is it still looks fresh. The first round, it got dark quickly and 3000 miles looked dark whether I checked it cold or warm. This round, it is light brown when cold and golden yellow when I check it warm.

That it looks cleaner after the same miles is just one observation. I switched to this Valvoline when I saw the first Oil Geek video about it. It had been consuming 1/2 quart of STP 5W-30 synthetic every 800 miles and had some rattle on cold starts. The cold start rattle stopped immediately with the Valvoline. Right before I made the switch, I checked compression, fully warmed up, and got 180 psi on each cylinder and that's exactly spec. About a month ago, I checked compression again, fully warmed up, and got 200 psi. That was hard to believe so I did each cylinder twice and it repeated.

Another observation is the improvement in idle. That engine would visibly shake at idle and I could see it in the battery hold down, wiper arms, hoses. Now, I no longer see the vibrations. I even tried to measure vibration for a before and after, but all I could get with a pulse sensor was that I get even pulses out of the dipstick tube at 25Hz at idle. The dipstick itself is another observation. It wasn't varnished up before, but it is sparkly shiny now. Looking in the oil fill hole and I really haven't seen anything different.

The final observation is the consumption which is really why I switched. 1/2 quart in 800 miles before the Valvoline and 6000 miles later, that has improved to 1/2 quart in 1400 miles. I check it before every cold start and if I go into the grocery store or anywhere it will sit for 10 minutes. This seems to be improving. The first interval I saw it improve to 1/2 quart in 1000 miles. I'd like to see it just stop but I'll take a 43% improvement.

Almost forgot, my driving is mixed highway and country roads some city. On very long trips before the Valvoline I got 35MPG, AC blasting, 70 MPH. That will be hard to beat, but my next long trip will be an opportunity to see. And I'm at 90,000 miles on the odometer.

Say it with us… “color is NOT a valid indicator of oil condition. Color is NOT a valid indicator of oil condition….”

 

[NITester]

Say it with us… “color is NOT a valid indicator of oil condition. Color is NOT a valid indicator of oil condition….”

Ok,thanks, got it, it's time for an oil change then based on time. I'm at 6 months and 3000 miles. I decided on the first interval I'm sticking with VRP as my oil. It just runs buttery smooth on it and I know it's better to stick to one oil. The peaks and valleys will thank me.

 

[rondhol]

I used to buy fuel system cleaner decades ago (Gumout All in one, Redline, 3M, Techron, etc.) and found that it is not necessary, just dump money for my ego and believe to get the placebo "feel good effect". Now, I never buy such producsts anymore since I bought fuel from Top Tier gas station.

 

[tired]

I used to buy fuel system cleaner decades ago (Gumout All in one, Redline, 3M, Techron, etc.) and found that it is not necessary, just dump money for my ego and believe to get the placebo "feel good effect". Now, I never buy such producsts anymore since I bought fuel from Top Tier gas station.

You have Top Tier fuel in Germany?

 

[4WD]

If it were mine, I would do a Piston soak at the end of current interval. Then keep running VRP and go from there. It's entirely possible that VRP alone will continue to improve the consumption. Impressive results so far, love seeing the before/after compression testing.

I4 Four bangers - especially the sidewinders - are just too easy + so effective for a balanced soak - and often need new plugs anyway

 

[rondhol]

You have Top Tier fuel in Germany?

I talked about my past in FL. In Germany, or Western Europe in general, fuel cost almost 3x, or $12 per gallon. Everything is top tier, adding 3-10x more detergent in gasoline is fraction of the fuel and tax we pay here. Especielly diesel fuel, in Europe they have much higher detergent level than the USA diesel fuel (almost no detergent in diesel fuel).

 

[tired]

I talked about my past in FL. In Germany, or Western Europe in general, fuel cost almost 3x, or $12 per gallon. Everything is top tier, adding 3-10x more detergent in gasoline is fraction of the fuel and tax we pay here. Especielly diesel fuel, in Europe they have much higher detergent level than the USA diesel fuel (almost no detergent in diesel fuel).

Ha, yes I remember that now. You keep flipping between your American and European experiences. Not your fault, just wanted to clarify.

I'm not surprised that there is a higher standard for fuel across the board in Germany.