Valvoline Restore and Protect 2AZ-FE Observations & Questions

Stick with the VRP and give it the full 4x OCIs. My own yearlong experiment with it was STILL showing cleaning after the 3rd OCI. But this was also in a very varnished old Honda J35a7 with over 200k on it.
How effective was it with the varnish? I imagine that takes some time.
 
You won't really know if the VRP is continuing to clean until you cut the filter or otherwise inspect it (if it's a toyota cartridge filter). VRP cleans and parks the residue in the filter.


VRP can undo deposits, but the long term effects of all the prior miles with deposits cannot be undone. Wear is wear and damage is damage-- they are the eternal entropy of engine life.
Exactly...once engines start to wear, rate of wear only accelerates.

VRP is great, and this story is compelling.

My 2005 Tacoma 2TR-FE 2.7L 4 cylinder consumed oil, but I got 750k miles out of it.

I have adopted a maintenance plan involving consistency and using highest quality synthetic from very early in vehicle life.
 
Stick with the VRP and give it the full 4x OCIs. My own yearlong experiment with it was STILL showing cleaning after the 3rd OCI. But this was also in a very varnished old Honda J35a7 with over 200k on it.
If you were continuing to see cleaning, why did you switch away? Just curious.
 
Before VRP, there really wasn't too much of a choice. BG EPR and Berryman's B12 I suppose, with variable success.
To be fair to TCCN new pistons and rings are absolutely the best solution for these engines. If either of mine qualified for the service campaign I would absolutely have it done. Since they don't I consider myself lucky that the piston soak is so effective because there's no way I'm spending 4K for new pistons on a 5K car with cosmetic issues.
 
If you were continuing to see cleaning, why did you switch away? Just curious.
Because after the 4th drain the cleaning had drastically slowed and frankly I have oil ADHD. I have a lot of oil on hand and honestly I need to start using up some of the older stuff. My SN-rated 0w-40 FS is what's in there now.
 
I own an 03' Solara & an 06' Camry LE. Both have the 2AZ-FE engine. Solara has 128k Camry has 120k. 5W30 synthetic with OEM filters. None of them burn a drop of oil. Since they were used when I got them, I did the EPR 109 2X just to clean up the rings. They run FANTASTIC. And get outstanding gas mileage for such old vehicles. Serviced the tranny's and new plugs. Outstanding engines, until Toyota ruined them in 2007 due to CAFE issues. Solara is a bit uncomfortable for a person my age. Drop down like 30' into it. Tough getting out. Don't like the 2 door- 4 bucket seat set up either. Camry seat is much higher., and 4 door. Tranny's are fantastic too. They don't make cars like them anymore. Those engines are bullet proof. Don't leak a drop of oil either.
 
Here's a shot of one of my pistons. I don't know which and should probably do a systematic exam with the Borescope. I do know it was the peek I took about 10,000 miles ago. I had run some PEA in the gas tank. I said I didn't find anything horrifying, but now I wonder if I actually captured something not so good.

BlackBlob.webp
 
I'm no expert by no means, but that dark area is INSIDE the piston head. Looks more like a drip from a bad valve stem seal. You can see the edge of the piston where it meets the wall is clean. I actually see a little drop of oil at 5:00. Does it give a puff of blue smoke on start up, then go away ??? If so, it's a valve stem seal.
 
I'm no expert either, so that makes two of us. I don't see smoke on cold starts from the front seat looking in the rear view. I could set up the camera and record that.
 
Nah, don't bother. A bad stem seal lets out a nice puff of visible blue smoke on cold start. You would see it in the rear view. Time for the experts to jump in. Sorry. I tried :( There are some REALLY smart guys on this BITOG. You'll find one to help :)
 
Setting up a camera would be easy enough and it would eliminate valve stem seals if it shows nothing. I've run my finger inside the exhaust pipe before to see how much oil is leaving the pipe and I got a smudge not gobs. I didn't feel any misfires either. If it's burning enough to cause misfires, then she's shot and it's not there at this point. No bad Cat codes either. It's still early in the progression of oil burning.

I did a little reading and Darton makes sleeves for the 2AZ-FE. What I can't figure out is if those sleeves require bigger pistons. I'm guessing no. I'm getting a bit ahead of myself there though.

As you mentioned 50yr Street Mech, there are some very smart guys on this here BITOG.

The whole point of this was to lay out what my experience with Valvoline R&P has been. I know that nothing will reverse any damage and slowing it is the best I can expect. A 43% reduction in consumption is what I've seen. The question is whether 4 OCI will stop it or should I just do a soak and possibly see an abrupt stop to the consumption. Four oil changes is a long time.



Another just for fun is this graph of a Volumetric Efficiency test I ran. I did the test with a crude scanner on record and then entered it into a spreadsheet. She breathes good.


VEtest.webp
 
Try BG EPR PN 109 before you're next OCI, That stuff works in one oil change. You're down a 43 % reduction now. Can't hurt to try the EPR. That will get the rest of the gunk out of the rings. What year is you're 2AZ-FE ???? In 2007 , Toyota started using low tension piston rings to conform to CAFE standards. Then they all became oil burners. 2006 was the last year of the great 2AZ-FE 5W30 oil engines. I have an 03' Solara with the 2AZ-FE engine. One valve stem is leaking. Saw it when I changed the manifold due to to rotten exhaust. She still gives out a nice puff of blue smoke on cold start up. Been like that for years. Leaving it alone. 128k. Don't use the car much anymore anyway. No misfires or nothing. Leave it be. Not worth fixing. I throw a bottle a Cataclean and Chevron cleaner in it every now and again to keep the CATS clear. So, I need a year of you're 2AZ-FE when you get a chance.
 
I bought 4 cans of LubeGard on Amazon and have been putting it in the last tank before I change the oil. That's the source of PEA I mentioned before that Borescope image. I'm thinking that black blob could be from that somehow and that's where the BITOG experts might recognize what is going on there.
 
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