Valvoline Restore and Protect 2AZ-FE Observations & Questions

[NITester]

I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in my Toyota with the 2AZ-FE and I'm almost 3000 miles into the second interval. I changed the first at 3000 miles and I'm questioning whether to change again at 3000 miles or go to 4000. The reason for thinking it can go to 4000 miles is it still looks fresh. The first round, it got dark quickly and 3000 miles looked dark whether I checked it cold or warm. This round, it is light brown when cold and golden yellow when I check it warm.

That it looks cleaner after the same miles is just one observation. I switched to this Valvoline when I saw the first Oil Geek video about it. It had been consuming 1/2 quart of STP 5W-30 synthetic every 800 miles and had some rattle on cold starts. The cold start rattle stopped immediately with the Valvoline. Right before I made the switch, I checked compression, fully warmed up, and got 180 psi on each cylinder and that's exactly spec. About a month ago, I checked compression again, fully warmed up, and got 200 psi. That was hard to believe so I did each cylinder twice and it repeated.

Another observation is the improvement in idle. That engine would visibly shake at idle and I could see it in the battery hold down, wiper arms, hoses. Now, I no longer see the vibrations. I even tried to measure vibration for a before and after, but all I could get with a pulse sensor was that I get even pulses out of the dipstick tube at 25Hz at idle. The dipstick itself is another observation. It wasn't varnished up before, but it is sparkly shiny now. Looking in the oil fill hole and I really haven't seen anything different.

The final observation is the consumption which is really why I switched. 1/2 quart in 800 miles before the Valvoline and 6000 miles later, that has improved to 1/2 quart in 1400 miles. I check it before every cold start and if I go into the grocery store or anywhere it will sit for 10 minutes. This seems to be improving. The first interval I saw it improve to 1/2 quart in 1000 miles. I'd like to see it just stop but I'll take a 43% improvement.

Almost forgot, my driving is mixed highway and country roads some city. On very long trips before the Valvoline I got 35MPG, AC blasting, 70 MPH. That will be hard to beat, but my next long trip will be an opportunity to see. And I'm at 90,000 miles on the odometer.

 

[Elkins45]

I'd like to see it just stop but I'll take a 43% improvement.

If VR&P has made that much of a difference then a Berryman’s piston soak will likely get you to near 100%.

 

[NITester]

If VR&P has made that much of a difference then a Berryman’s piston soak will likely get you to near 100%.

Do I have the time to let it soak? I really should consider it since I've read enough good results. Thanks.

Just for fun, here's a screenshot of the recent pulse sensor in the dipstick tube. She's running like butter.

 

[iCurious]

I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in my Toyota with the 2AZ-FE and I'm almost 3000 miles into the second interval. I changed the first at 3000 miles and I'm questioning whether to change again at 3000 miles or go to 4000. The reason for thinking it can go to 4000 miles is it still looks fresh. The first round, it got dark quickly and 3000 miles looked dark whether I checked it cold or warm. This round, it is light brown when cold and golden yellow when I check it warm.

That it looks cleaner after the same miles is just one observation. I switched to this Valvoline when I saw the first Oil Geek video about it. It had been consuming 1/2 quart of STP 5W-30 synthetic every 800 miles and had some rattle on cold starts. The cold start rattle stopped immediately with the Valvoline. Right before I made the switch, I checked compression, fully warmed up, and got 180 psi on each cylinder and that's exactly spec. About a month ago, I checked compression again, fully warmed up, and got 200 psi. That was hard to believe so I did each cylinder twice and it repeated.

Another observation is the improvement in idle. That engine would visibly shake at idle and I could see it in the battery hold down, wiper arms, hoses. Now, I no longer see the vibrations. I even tried to measure vibration for a before and after, but all I could get with a pulse sensor was that I get even pulses out of the dipstick tube at 25Hz at idle. The dipstick itself is another observation. It wasn't varnished up before, but it is sparkly shiny now. Looking in the oil fill hole and I really haven't seen anything different.

The final observation is the consumption which is really why I switched. 1/2 quart in 800 miles before the Valvoline and 6000 miles later, that has improved to 1/2 quart in 1400 miles. I check it before every cold start and if I go into the grocery store or anywhere it will sit for 10 minutes. This seems to be improving. The first interval I saw it improve to 1/2 quart in 1000 miles. I'd like to see it just stop but I'll take a 43% improvement.

Almost forgot, my driving is mixed highway and country roads some city. On very long trips before the Valvoline I got 35MPG, AC blasting, 70 MPH. That will be hard to beat, but my next long trip will be an opportunity to see. And I'm at 90,000 miles on the odometer.

I have the same engine and using 5W30, it does feels smoother for sure. I am changing it at every 3K to see if it helps with the oil consumption.

 

[NITester]

I have the same engine and using 5W30, it does feels smoother for sure. I am changing it at every 3K to see if it helps with the oil consumption.

How much does yours burn?

The owners manual even has something about oil consumption and suggests that driving it hard will burn more. If I remember right, I think Toyota says 1 quart in 1000 is normal. That blows my mind.

 

[AKhan87]

I have rebuilt a few 2AZ-FE engines, a big issue that I saw with 2AZ-FE was that the oil capacity was listed at 4.0 quart with an oil filter...

my 1zzfe was updated (03+ Celica and 05+ Corolla) to 4.4 quarts with an oil filter (I run 4.5 quarts)

In the Camry:
2002-06 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine was 4.0 quarts with oil filter

2007-09 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine was 4.5 quarts with oil filter

I would highly recommend that people run 4.5 quarts in all 2AZ-FE engines, and because they can easily get carbon build up in their rings, also run XW30 weight oil instead of the XW20 weight used in the 07-09 2AZ-FE engines.

This engine is not easy on oil, so use high quality synthetics, when taken care of, these engines can easily get 35 mpg, even better then Corollas from that era.

 

[buster]

I've been using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in my Toyota with the 2AZ-FE and I'm almost 3000 miles into the second interval. I changed the first at 3000 miles and I'm questioning whether to change again at 3000 miles or go to 4000. The reason for thinking it can go to 4000 miles is it still looks fresh. The first round, it got dark quickly and 3000 miles looked dark whether I checked it cold or warm. This round, it is light brown when cold and golden yellow when I check it warm.

That it looks cleaner after the same miles is just one observation. I switched to this Valvoline when I saw the first Oil Geek video about it. It had been consuming 1/2 quart of STP 5W-30 synthetic every 800 miles and had some rattle on cold starts. The cold start rattle stopped immediately with the Valvoline. Right before I made the switch, I checked compression, fully warmed up, and got 180 psi on each cylinder and that's exactly spec. About a month ago, I checked compression again, fully warmed up, and got 200 psi. That was hard to believe so I did each cylinder twice and it repeated.

Another observation is the improvement in idle. That engine would visibly shake at idle and I could see it in the battery hold down, wiper arms, hoses. Now, I no longer see the vibrations. I even tried to measure vibration for a before and after, but all I could get with a pulse sensor was that I get even pulses out of the dipstick tube at 25Hz at idle. The dipstick itself is another observation. It wasn't varnished up before, but it is sparkly shiny now. Looking in the oil fill hole and I really haven't seen anything different.

The final observation is the consumption which is really why I switched. 1/2 quart in 800 miles before the Valvoline and 6000 miles later, that has improved to 1/2 quart in 1400 miles. I check it before every cold start and if I go into the grocery store or anywhere it will sit for 10 minutes. This seems to be improving. The first interval I saw it improve to 1/2 quart in 1000 miles. I'd like to see it just stop but I'll take a 43% improvement.

Almost forgot, my driving is mixed highway and country roads some city. On very long trips before the Valvoline I got 35MPG, AC blasting, 70 MPH. That will be hard to beat, but my next long trip will be an opportunity to see. And I'm at 90,000 miles on the odometer.

I'd probably push it to 4-5k with VRP. Your results are consistent with the majority of VRP users.

 

[NITester]

Do I have the time to let it soak? I really should consider it since I've read enough good results. Thanks.

Just for fun, here's a screenshot of the recent pulse sensor in the dipstick tube. She's running like butter.

Ooops, got the firing order wrong. It should be 1342, so on my overlay it should be 4 2 1 3.

 

[Elkins45]

How much does yours burn?

The owners manual even has something about oil consumption and suggests that driving it hard will burn more. If I remember right, I think Toyota says 1 quart in 1000 is normal. That blows my mind.

Translated what that really means is more than one quart in 1000 miles is so bad Toyota can't ignore it. What vehicle is yours in?

I've owned three of them now, all in Scion xB's. My wife had a 2004 Solara with the same engine but that was before the ring "upgrade" debacle. It didn't burn a drop of oil even on the way to the scrapyard.

 

[Elkins45]

I have the same engine and using 5W30, it does feels smoother for sure. I am changing it at every 3K to see if it helps with the oil consumption.

I'm a big advocate for solvent soaking these engines because of the video The Car Care Nut did on them. He says if the rings stay stuck for too long they eventually scuff the cylinder liners and then the block is ruined, so unvarnishing the rings may do more than save on oil consumption. It might save the block.

 

[NITester]

Translated what that really means is more than one quart in 1000 miles is so bad Toyota can't ignore it. What vehicle is yours in?

I've owned three of them now, all in Scion xB's. My wife had a 2004 Solara with the same engine but that was before the ring "upgrade" debacle. It didn't burn a drop of oil even on the way to the scrapyard.

Scion tc 2006. I've owned it for the last 40,000 miles. I've always changed the oil no later than 4000 miles, but who knows about the first 50000 miles since I bought used from a used car dealer. I'd like to avoid scored cylinders. I went in with a borescope about 10,000 miles ago and didnt see any obvious horrors, just black piston tops, cross hatch, some faint bluish vertical lines here and there.

 

[Elkins45]

Scion tc 2006. I've owned it for the last 40,000 miles. I've always changed the oil no later than 4000 miles, but who knows about the first 50000 miles since I bought used from a used car dealer. I'd like to avoid scored cylinders. I went in with a borescope about 10,000 miles ago and didnt see any obvious horrors, just black piston tops, cross hatch, some faint bluish vertical lines here and there.

I'm surprised you're having an issue with a 2006. The bad ring design supposedly didn't start until 2007.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I'm kind of cringing at the thought of doing a compression test when hot. That means pulling plugs when it's hot which all I learned over the years is a bad thing to do. YMMV.

Good that you are getting good results from VRP. Pretty much every manufacturer has the 1qt / 1k miles is acceptable (to them).

 

[tired]

I'm a big advocate for solvent soaking these engines because of the video The Car Care Nut did on them. He says if the rings stay stuck for too long they eventually scuff the cylinder liners and then the block is ruined, so unvarnishing the rings may do more than save on oil consumption. It might save the block.

How did he recommend to save the rings? What's his recommendation? He has always said 5000 miles or 6 months with any high quality synthetic, and you'll never have problems.

 

[NITester]

I'm kind of cringing at the thought of doing a compression test when hot. That means pulling plugs when it's hot which all I learned over the years is a bad thing to do. YMMV.

Good that you are getting good results from VRP. Pretty much every manufacturer has the 1qt / 1k miles is acceptable (to them).

I hear you. Now that I think about it, I remember as a kid being taught the same. I did it that way because I thought compression was supposed to be tested warm and I'm not sure where I got that. I did let it sit some but it wasn't a cold engine.

 

[Elkins45]

How did he recommend to save the rings? What's his recommendation? He has always said 5000 miles or 6 months with any high quality synthetic, and you'll never have problems.

He said replace them. That's how he makes money.

 

[NITester]

I'm surprised you're having an issue with a 2006. The bad ring design supposedly didn't start until 2007.

I watched that car care nut video which brings up more questions like can a 2AZ-FE be honed? He says if the cylinders are scored it's done. I've read before the coating should not be honed but what if it is honed? The engine in the video had 140,000 on it and he said the cylinders were perfect but the camera didn't really give a close look. I thought I saw some shadows that looked like vertical wear. I know he wouldn't ring worn cylinders but I really wanted to see what he says is perfect after 140,000.

Anyway, I'd like to totally avoid all that. I'm getting closer to an oil change which is a chance to do a soak. Hmmmmm.

 

[Hohn]

You won't really know if the VRP is continuing to clean until you cut the filter or otherwise inspect it (if it's a toyota cartridge filter). VRP cleans and parks the residue in the filter.


VRP can undo deposits, but the long term effects of all the prior miles with deposits cannot be undone. Wear is wear and damage is damage-- they are the eternal entropy of engine life.

 

[NITester]

You won't really know if the VRP is continuing to clean until you cut the filter or otherwise inspect it (if it's a toyota cartridge filter). VRP cleans and parks the residue in the filter.


VRP can undo deposits, but the long term effects of all the prior miles with deposits cannot be undone. Wear is wear and damage is damage-- they are the eternal entropy of engine life.

I sent my brother in law, as a gift, a UOA kit from speed diagnostics. He likes his VW's and he said, thanks not sure if I really want to know. I should have bought one for myself instead. I'm only into the second interval and I definitely notice the oil is cleaner than the first interval for the same miles. That seems a good indication the crud is being removed.

Yeah, can't undo wear but slowing it sure got my interest.

 

[Hohn]

Stick with the VRP and give it the full 4x OCIs. My own yearlong experiment with it was STILL showing cleaning after the 3rd OCI. But this was also in a very varnished old Honda J35a7 with over 200k on it.