Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W-30 in a Honda 2.4L

Originally Posted by The Critic
EPR is an engine flush additive by BG.

I have not tried soaking the cylinder. Neither Kreen or the old-version of the GM top-end cleaner are not available in CA so the lack of potent chemicals forced me to dismiss the idea.

Use mineral spirits (Stoddard solvent), MMO or Berrymans..do a couple of soak/run cycles (oci's) and see what that achieves? Let it soak for a day or so.. just be sure to change the oil out. Plus I would use a HDEO or some Rislone (abt $5usd) + PCMO during the oil change following a soak..the higher detergency will help clean things out better than an off the shelf PCMO.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
My mom has a 2008 Honda Accord K24 with 52K miles... she rarely drives it.. i change the oil every 5K miles or once a year ...so far no consumption on hers..

If you want an interesting read at some guys trying to solve it with MMO and Carb cleaner take a look here.

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/how-i-cured-my-2010-accord-lxp-from-using-oil.454817/page-4

and here is a thread on AC Delco X66P

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/i-solved-oil-burning-in-my-accord-4-cylinder.539415/

MMO works just fine as it's mostly kerosene and Stoddard solvent (mineral oil). Both will work to dissolve carbon, albeit at slower rate, than some other stuff like Berrymans which is loaded with solvents. Berrymans would be my 1st choice for a piston soak.

Most carb cleaners use acetone and work great for cleaning up oil/grease.. I'm not sure about the efficacy for use on really thick carbon deposits.
 
Last edited:
Look forward to seeing whether this works or not. I think it's worth a shot. My 05 Accord (2.4L) consumed 1/2 qt per 5k up to around 100k miles then slow started to increase at a rate of 1/2qt per 3k miles. Many Hondas will burn regardless of oil used - low tension rings and lots of negative cylinder pressure on overrun.

What's interesting though is my oil consumption went up over the years as well. Whether it's due to wear or dirty piston rings I guess is the question.
 
Obviously the economics of this doesn't work (ie it costs about 6 bucks per OCI to top up).
So I assume you're worried the oil won't get checked and it will blow up?
 
Originally Posted by nascarnation
Obviously the economics of this doesn't work (ie it costs about 6 bucks per OCI to top up).
So I assume you're worried the oil won't get checked and it will blow up?

Catalytic converters are expensive - CA is pretty much OEM only.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by nascarnation
Obviously the economics of this doesn't work (ie it costs about 6 bucks per OCI to top up).
So I assume you're worried the oil won't get checked and it will blow up?

Catalytic converters are expensive - CA is pretty much OEM only.


Hard to believe a quart every 2000 miles bothers a cat. I've got clunkers (admittedly not Cal emissions rated) that have used a quart a thousand for a long time without issues.
 
Originally Posted by painfx
Why 10w30? They dont have 5w?


Because it is a special oil to deal with a special situation. It wasn't made for wide usage and didn't need to have 5 different weights. Its not a normal PCMO, hence the $70 a gallon price.
 
Originally Posted by painfx
Why 10w30? They dont have 5w?


Why would you think you "need" a 5w in summer anyways?

[Linked Image from stikkitnow.com]
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by painfx
Why 10w30? They dont have 5w?


Why would you think you "need" a 5w in summer anyways?

[Linked Image from stikkitnow.com]


Your chart puts 0W16 out at about 77F and a 0W30 out at about 95F, unless I read it wrong, or the conversion table was off, and I apologize in advance. I have my doubts about that chart to be honest.
 
Last edited:
I'm in for the results, as I also have '07 accord 2.4 that uses some oil.

When I bought the car with a little over 90k, I realized it was burning about 1 quart every 2k miles, which made me nervous, because the car had been dealer maintained, and if the previous owner had been going by the maintenance light and not checking, it could have been run somewhat low on oil in the past (maintenance minder says to change around 6k miles with my driving).

I switched to M1 5w30 at my first OC from what I assume had been a steady diet of 5w20 conventional from the dealer, and in the first OCI with M1 the burning dropped to about 1 quart ever 2500 miles. I have since been doing 10k mile OCIs of M1 or M1 EP if on sale, and the burning has continued to drop off slowly to about a quart every 3k miles. The car now currently has about 145k miles on it. FWIW, I drive it like I stole it most days with lots of WOT, high RPM, and engine braking when conditions permit. Not sure how that affects anything.

Also, as someone mentioned previously, it seems to take over 1 quart to go from the low to the full mark on these cars. In my case about 1.25 quarts.
 
[/quote]
Your chart puts 0W16 out at about 77F and a 0W30 out at about 95F, unless I read it wrong, or the conversion table was off, and I apologize in advance. I have my doubts about that chart to be honest.[/quote]


I have to agree with demarpaint. Looking at the temperature scale on the chart, which is does not indicate any units of measure, it only goes up to 50. But 50 what? I would assume it must be Celsius, but even then, 50C is only a little over 120F. Something is off about the chart.
 
That chart gets dragged out from time to time and is just as worthless each time it gets posted. It is from this site:

https://www.stikkitnow.com/

which has additional gems such as:
Quote
A High Mileage oil makes the vehicle to be more fuel efficient because the wear of the engine components that make the performance of the engine to drag causing increased fuel consumption gets handled. Making the consumption rate of the fuel contained those older vehicles to be greatly reduced, and enabling the car to be durable and reliable on the road.

and
Quote
A High Mileage oil also contributes to increasing the stability of your vehicle on the road. Making your vehicle stable is essential as a driver is highly essential to avoid engine damage and a very high possibility of fire outbreak.

and
Quote
A lighter weight oil may not result in better fuel efficiency, unless an engine is designed to sustain thinner, lighter oil. Modern gasoline engines run on 0-weight oil, and return very good efficiency. However, engines that take thinner oil have much closer tolerances, and are much more susceptible to breaking down, if the owner doesn't stay on top of oil changes.

It looks like most of the site was assembled by a bot.
 
I can't speak for this👆 particular chart but viscosity v. temp is nothing new. It's based on API specs. Problem is most interpret it to mean a particular lube is only good for the depicted range..not true. An oil isn't going to spontaneously grenade if operated outside of the range but rather what the chart is meant to tell you is that X lube performs optimally in Y range.

Another variation of the chart from Hemmings
[Linked Image]


Another version from a typical owners manual:
[Linked Image]


Briggs and Stratton
[Linked Image]


Amsoil
[Linked Image]
 
Last edited:
"A High Mileage oil also contributes to increasing the stability of your vehicle on the road. Making your vehicle stable is essential as a driver is highly essential to avoid engine damage and a very high possibility of fire outbreak."

THIS is what quality information looks like. How have we not spread this like gospel?
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Your chart puts 0W16 out at about 77F and a 0W30 out at about 95F, unless I read it wrong, or the conversion table was off, and I apologize in advance. I have my doubts about that chart to be honest.


Gosh, I was just using the chart as a visual indicator that 5Wxx and 10Wxx cover about 95% of the same ground above 32*F, and also why I asked why he "needed" a 5W in summer. Whether or not the illustrated ranges are 100% correct, it was a simple answer to a simple question.

5Wxx and 10Wxx of the same grade are functionally identical as far as viscosity is concerned in typical North American temperatures during the summer season. Better?
smile.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
*MIX*- M1 Euro 0w-40 & Val PB "Restore" 10w-30, 9.3k OCI
Replies
4
Views
329
fantastic
J
M1 FS Euro 0w-40, Val PB "Restore" 10w-30, 5.1K OCI, 07 GMC 6.2L
2 3
Replies
54
Views
2K
Plawan
C
Honda K24 recommendations
Replies
13
Views
7K
Dave P.
buster
Valvoline Restore & Redline Oil - Cleaning Ability
2
Replies
24
Views
6K
classic70
The Critic
  • Locked
Cummins ISX15 OCI
Replies
5
Views
2K
The Critic
Back
Top