I rarely see people comment about Valvoline regular conventional oil. What does everyone think? I do oil changes at 4,000 so I would think it would be good.
Valvoline Conventional??
- Thread starter qwerty1234
- Start date
- Status
Everything is application dependent, of course. Assuming the Valvoline conventional meets the specifications required by your vehicle, VWB should do absolutely fine over the OEM interval.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
My fave dino oil!
If there's a NAPA in your location, head over there and get their house brand. Made by Ashland and the VOAs show formulation is within measuring error % on NAPA brand and Valvoline. NAPA brand is especially cheap when on sale.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Fine conventional.
I used to run Valvoline, and nothing but Valvoline for decades, and then Motorcraft oil for a few years, until engine oil prices went wacky the last 4 years or so.
These days I'm very price conscious and shop for the best value which currently in my area is TropArtic Synthetic Blend at $1.79 to $2.19 when on sale at my local farm store.
However, Valvoline conventional oil is an excellent product, if it meets your needs. Buy and use with confidence.
These days I'm very price conscious and shop for the best value which currently in my area is TropArtic Synthetic Blend at $1.79 to $2.19 when on sale at my local farm store.
However, Valvoline conventional oil is an excellent product, if it meets your needs. Buy and use with confidence.
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Originally Posted By: 285south
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
My fave dino oil!
+1
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 285south
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
Yeah, yeah, yeah Robin! (varnish is from using 10w40 and not 10w30)
My fave dino oil!
+1
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 285south
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
Yeah, yeah, yeah Robin! (varnish is from using 10w40 and not 10w30)
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
How did you come to that conclusion?
My conclusion is that I used 10w-40 instead of the recommended 30, in my car from the beginning (minus 2 cases of Castrol). Second I drove mostly city than highway mileage. Third 40 is thicker than 30, which stayed on the metal longer. Fourth my car never used synthetic for the first 100k. 5th, if I drove 8k a year that is only 22 miles a day, so it sat on pavement more than I drove it.
How did you come to that conclusion?
My conclusion is that I used 10w-40 instead of the recommended 30, in my car from the beginning (minus 2 cases of Castrol). Second I drove mostly city than highway mileage. Third 40 is thicker than 30, which stayed on the metal longer. Fourth my car never used synthetic for the first 100k. 5th, if I drove 8k a year that is only 22 miles a day, so it sat on pavement more than I drove it.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: 285south
Yeah, yeah, yeah Robin! (varnish is from using 10w40 and not 10w30)
Varnish is from the oil not being able to suspend additional contaminants and those contaminants falling out and baking onto the surface. Contaminants can be a variety of different things, even broken down polymers (and other components) from the oil itself, but the point is that the oil couldn't no longer hold them in suspension so they dropped out. It had nothing to do with it being 10w-30 or 10w-40.
Yeah, yeah, yeah Robin! (varnish is from using 10w40 and not 10w30)
Varnish is from the oil not being able to suspend additional contaminants and those contaminants falling out and baking onto the surface. Contaminants can be a variety of different things, even broken down polymers (and other components) from the oil itself, but the point is that the oil couldn't no longer hold them in suspension so they dropped out. It had nothing to do with it being 10w-30 or 10w-40.
Time for someone to attend our online University!
I dunno with the 10w30 having far fewer VII's it may not have left quite as much varnish, BUT the main problem in those pics IMO is continued use of dino at 8k intervals. I doubt we'd see the same result if it had been run 5k instead.
Essentially cosmetic anyway.
Essentially cosmetic anyway.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 285south
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
That yellow is Valvoline`s trademark. Nothing wrong, a fine Conventional oil.
Originally Posted By: 285south
It is good oil, as you can see with the photos I posted: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3132705#Post3132705
Holy varnish Batman!
That yellow is Valvoline`s trademark. Nothing wrong, a fine Conventional oil.
- Status
Similar threads
