Valve clatter at start up

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Engine in question is a Mitsubishi 3.0L 12-valve V6 (6G72), found in my '00 Pajero/Montero with currently 155,220 miles on the clock.

I've experimented with various different oil filters, including an OEM Mitsubishi MD136790, Mitsubishi Value MZ690150, Motorcraft FL810, ACDelco DuraGuard PF1127 and WIX 51334.

If I allow my vehicle to sit over night, or a good couple of hours, I hear the valves clattering at start up. If I increase oil pressure, the clattering goes away. I've had exactly the same problem with an ACDelco filter and it went away after it was replaced. Since, I switched to WIX and never had this problem again until recently. Although this happened roughly 1,000 miles after my oil change, with a WIX 51334. Does this sound like a faulty oil filter? Thanks.
 
I've never checked. But even if they did, I don't think I'd be able to find it here.
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Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Engine in question is a Mitsubishi 3.0L 12-valve V6 (6G72), found in my '00 Pajero/Montero with currently 155,220 miles on the clock.

I've experimented with various different oil filters, including an OEM Mitsubishi MD136790, Mitsubishi Value MZ690150, Motorcraft FL810, ACDelco DuraGuard PF1127 and WIX 51334.

If I allow my vehicle to sit over night, or a good couple of hours, I hear the valves clattering at start up. If I increase oil pressure, the clattering goes away. I've had exactly the same problem with an ACDelco filter and it went away after it was replaced. Since, I switched to WIX and never had this problem again until recently. Although this happened roughly 1,000 miles after my oil change, with a WIX 51334. Does this sound like a faulty oil filter? Thanks.


What kind of oil are you using and what grade? What are the temperatures that you are experiencing the problems under?

It could just be the engine showing signs of its age... That's getting up there in the mileage!
 
Because I'm running an Auto-Rx application on it, I'm using a group 2 20W-50. 20W-50 is the most common grade of motor oil here, which is why I had to use it with my application. That said, it could also be the type of oil (BP Visco 2000)...it's the first time I use this oil. I've never had valve clattering with 140,000+ miles, even with 10w30 grade oil. Temperature range is 55 to 85 Fahrenheit.
 
I would try using a 10w30 instead of the 20w50... I think it's too thick for that engine in those temperatures... My opinion...

Can you send us some pictures from over there? Interested to see your part of the world and not just what our media shows us...
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would try using a 10w30 instead of the 20w50... I think it's too thick for that engine in those temperatures... My opinion...

Can you send us some pictures from over there? Interested to see your part of the world and not just what our media shows us...


After my application is completed, I will be switching to a 5W-40 grade synthetic. Granted, I am going to replace my valve guides and stem seals before I go down that route pretty soon.

The reason I used 20W-50 is because there are only two brands of 10w30 available (ACDelco and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend), and neither are compatible with Auto-Rx on this vehicle, based on experience.

Pictures are no problem...would be glad to.
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I see... I just assumed that you would have access to all the stuff we do... Guess I didn't think of that... 5w40 sounds good.

Pictures would be good too!
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I love traveling and seeing different parts of the world. I especially like to see what the parts of the world look like and not just what I see on TV.
 
Pretty much a different case in this part of the world. 20W-50 is the most commonly available motor oil, closely followed by 15w40 and 10w30. Synthetics are available in 5w30, 0W-40, 5W-40 and 10W-60. Then you get the odd balls too, such as 5W-50, 10W-50, etc.

I'm a fan of travelling too, it's a great experience on its own which lasts a lifetime. Too bad it can get very costly, very quick! I'll post up some pictures soon! Many thanks for the much appreciated assistance!
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Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would try using a 10w30 instead of the 20w50... I think it's too thick for that engine in those temperatures... My opinion...

Can you send us some pictures from over there? Interested to see your part of the world and not just what our media shows us...


After my application is completed, I will be switching to a 5W-40 grade synthetic. Granted, I am going to replace my valve guides and stem seals before I go down that route pretty soon.

The reason I used 20W-50 is because there are only two brands of 10w30 available (ACDelco and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend), and neither are compatible with Auto-Rx on this vehicle, based on experience.

Pictures are no problem...would be glad to.
55.gif



I don't know much about mitsubishi v6's, but if this engine is a pushrod engine, you may want to consider changing the hydraulic lifters while you're in there. That could be the source of your chatter.
 
Isn't it typical for oil passages to clog and unclog during an A-RX treatment? I would wait until the whole A-RX is done before diagnosing problems.
 
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