My post just below this one explains why, I had a friend that did that on his truck for a while. Will it damage anything turning the ac on with the big connector that goes into the resister unplugged? It controls the power motor. I would still have cold air coming through the vents at speed correct? It is HOT in TExas and rolling the window down I still sweat like a pig.
using the AC with blower motor unpluged
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there would be no damage from that.
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
My post just below this one explains why, I had a friend that did that on his truck for a while. Will it damage anything turning the ac on with the big connector that goes into the resister unplugged? It controls the power motor. I would still have cold air coming through the vents at speed correct? It is HOT in TExas and rolling the window down I still sweat like a pig.
What is missing when the fan is not running? No the a/c will not get hurt.
My post just below this one explains why, I had a friend that did that on his truck for a while. Will it damage anything turning the ac on with the big connector that goes into the resister unplugged? It controls the power motor. I would still have cold air coming through the vents at speed correct? It is HOT in TExas and rolling the window down I still sweat like a pig.
What is missing when the fan is not running? No the a/c will not get hurt.
The big connector that goes into the resister that I believe controls the fan/blower motor is BADLY BURNT & MELTED. I just replaced the one next to it. FORD wants Over $250 for the big connector and wiring, and the dash has to come out to plug it into the other good end. LAME!. I finally convinced my dad to come down and look at my car. He will be down to get it next Saturday. I "THINK" there is a possibility of just cutting the connector off and soldering the wires directly to the resister. Jerry rigging I know...But the car is quickly earning the title of beater status.
Dusty
Dusty
What year is your truck?
Motorcraft WPT688 is $31.89 which is the front blower motor connector for 2004-2007 F-150s (just for an example).
You can easily rig this without issue as well, but if you ever needed to replace the blower motor resistor it'd be annoying. And those resistors start failing around 100k in my experience.
Motorcraft WPT688 is $31.89 which is the front blower motor connector for 2004-2007 F-150s (just for an example).
You can easily rig this without issue as well, but if you ever needed to replace the blower motor resistor it'd be annoying. And those resistors start failing around 100k in my experience.
its my car. a 99 Escort ZX2. The Ford part #14401. Its a multi wire connect that plugs into the resister for the fan.
I would be EXTREMELY grateful if someone knows a cheaper place or can obtain it for less. $250 is NUTS. I was thinking $30 to $40 when I when to the dealer... Only place I'm told that sells it.
Thanks
Dustin
I would be EXTREMELY grateful if someone knows a cheaper place or can obtain it for less. $250 is NUTS. I was thinking $30 to $40 when I when to the dealer... Only place I'm told that sells it.
Thanks
Dustin
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
The big connector that goes into the resister that I believe controls the fan/blower motor is BADLY BURNT & MELTED. I just replaced the one next to it. FORD wants Over $250 for the big connector and wiring, and the dash has to come out to plug it into the other good end. LAME!. I finally convinced my dad to come down and look at my car. He will be down to get it next Saturday. I "THINK" there is a possibility of just cutting the connector off and soldering the wires directly to the resister. Jerry rigging I know...But the car is quickly earning the title of beater status.
Dusty
I'm pretty sure that, in general, only speed between high and off use the resistor matrix while high speed is connected directly to the fan. Does "high" still work? If so, that would be the best option as opposed to disconnecting things.
The big connector that goes into the resister that I believe controls the fan/blower motor is BADLY BURNT & MELTED. I just replaced the one next to it. FORD wants Over $250 for the big connector and wiring, and the dash has to come out to plug it into the other good end. LAME!. I finally convinced my dad to come down and look at my car. He will be down to get it next Saturday. I "THINK" there is a possibility of just cutting the connector off and soldering the wires directly to the resister. Jerry rigging I know...But the car is quickly earning the title of beater status.
Dusty
I'm pretty sure that, in general, only speed between high and off use the resistor matrix while high speed is connected directly to the fan. Does "high" still work? If so, that would be the best option as opposed to disconnecting things.
W/O a blower the low side pressure will be very low and the compressor will cycle constantly.
Alright, the part I was talking about is the one next to it that you replaced. I guess you need the complete main wiring assay because that's what part 14401 is. $250 from a local dealer sounds about right. Might be able to get it a little cheaper ordering online from another dealer, depending on shipping charges. It is definitely going to be annoying to instal.
That sucks :/, yours is the first car I've heard of that's needed the main wiring assay replaced. I'd definitely try soldering it.
That sucks :/, yours is the first car I've heard of that's needed the main wiring assay replaced. I'd definitely try soldering it.
The evaporator would be more likely to freeze up and temporarily cut out, but I can't see it causing any problems.
I once did a 300 mile road trip in my '87 Grand Am with the A/C on and no blower motor. It was just a bad ground that I fixed when I got to my destination. No problem, but there was quite a bit of airflow since it was all at highway speed. It was actually perfect; no cold drafts. I wish I could run the A/C on my Mazda3 with no fan and all three vent directions open.
I once did a 300 mile road trip in my '87 Grand Am with the A/C on and no blower motor. It was just a bad ground that I fixed when I got to my destination. No problem, but there was quite a bit of airflow since it was all at highway speed. It was actually perfect; no cold drafts. I wish I could run the A/C on my Mazda3 with no fan and all three vent directions open.
BOTH connectors going into the resister were/are trashed THEY ARE BLACK and have major corrosion? What would have caused this? This car is making me MAD! the little [censored] is aggravating as [censored]. I feel that once that is fixed the motor will blow or trans will go out. THAT is my luck lately
Like I said earlier body except for the bumper from getting rear ended it is near perfect shape, and the interior is as well. The insurance Co. will replace the bumper. I hate to give up on it.
Like I said earlier body except for the bumper from getting rear ended it is near perfect shape, and the interior is as well. The insurance Co. will replace the bumper. I hate to give up on it.
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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
BOTH connectors going into the resister were/are trashed THEY ARE BLACK and have major corrosion? What would have caused this? This car is making me MAD! the little [censored] is aggravating as [censored]. I feel that once that is fixed the motor will blow or trans will go out. THAT is my luck lately
The only time I've experienced something like that is the radiator fan connector on my mother's Focus. It became black and corroded. I have no idea what caused it, she said it was overheating a little in traffic and I looked at the connectors and that one just kind of fell apart when I touched it.
I'm going to just say it's a Ford thing. Their accessory part longevity seems to be aimed at hitting 100k and not much more. My mother's Focus is 130k now and I've replaced 9 non-routine things in the past 10k miles. O2 sensor, 3 motor mounts, radiator fan assembly, windage tray gasket, blower motor resistor, blower motor switch, coil assay.
I hope soldering works for you!
BOTH connectors going into the resister were/are trashed THEY ARE BLACK and have major corrosion? What would have caused this? This car is making me MAD! the little [censored] is aggravating as [censored]. I feel that once that is fixed the motor will blow or trans will go out. THAT is my luck lately
The only time I've experienced something like that is the radiator fan connector on my mother's Focus. It became black and corroded. I have no idea what caused it, she said it was overheating a little in traffic and I looked at the connectors and that one just kind of fell apart when I touched it.
I'm going to just say it's a Ford thing. Their accessory part longevity seems to be aimed at hitting 100k and not much more. My mother's Focus is 130k now and I've replaced 9 non-routine things in the past 10k miles. O2 sensor, 3 motor mounts, radiator fan assembly, windage tray gasket, blower motor resistor, blower motor switch, coil assay.
I hope soldering works for you!
I'm beginning to think fords are getting junky... That's all I have ever owned. My next car might be a Honda... hopefully they don't have this cheap under engineered "[censored]". I will pull the e fan connector and put dielectric grease in it. THANKS for the heads up. any other problem points on the ZX2's with 2.0DOHC zetec motors?
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
1,2,3,4 settings ALL work with it plugged in. But it smokes and the wires get REALLY hot. I have to disconnect it for the time being for fear of it catching fire.
...but does it do that on high, where no resistors should be getting used (which is where I would expect the heat to be coming from)?
If it gets hot and smokes on high, then you've got something else going on other than the resistors (connectors, wiring, PCB traces).
1,2,3,4 settings ALL work with it plugged in. But it smokes and the wires get REALLY hot. I have to disconnect it for the time being for fear of it catching fire.
...but does it do that on high, where no resistors should be getting used (which is where I would expect the heat to be coming from)?
If it gets hot and smokes on high, then you've got something else going on other than the resistors (connectors, wiring, PCB traces).
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
I'm beginning to think fords are getting junky... That's all I have ever owned. My next car might be a Honda... hopefully they don't have this cheap under engineered "[censored]". I will pull the e fan connector and put dielectric grease in it. THANKS for the heads up. any other problem points on the ZX2's with 2.0DOHC zetec motors?
Your car is 12 years old. Stuff happens on anything after more than a decade. I know lots of people with Civics about the age of your car, and they aren't without problems either.
Was this car ever in a state that uses lots of road salt? That's what did in the fan resistor on my Explorer...too much road salt accumulation in that area of the engine compartment.
I'm beginning to think fords are getting junky... That's all I have ever owned. My next car might be a Honda... hopefully they don't have this cheap under engineered "[censored]". I will pull the e fan connector and put dielectric grease in it. THANKS for the heads up. any other problem points on the ZX2's with 2.0DOHC zetec motors?
Your car is 12 years old. Stuff happens on anything after more than a decade. I know lots of people with Civics about the age of your car, and they aren't without problems either.
Was this car ever in a state that uses lots of road salt? That's what did in the fan resistor on my Explorer...too much road salt accumulation in that area of the engine compartment.
I'd try to get the connector-only from a junk yard (although those too may be burnt). You could just splice it in to the wiring harness. Failing that, I'd check the connectors, if they're something standard, like 1/4" tabs, use 1/4" crimp-on disconnects. Failing that, there's always good ol' soldering them on, like you said. $250 for the complete wiring harness??? No way!
JTK
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
W/O a blower the low side pressure will be very low and the compressor will cycle constantly.
Exactly.
There will be some airflow across the evaporator core with the vehicle in motion, but during low/no speed, there won't be enough load on it. This will lead to other more expensive issues eventually.
Joel
W/O a blower the low side pressure will be very low and the compressor will cycle constantly.
Exactly.
There will be some airflow across the evaporator core with the vehicle in motion, but during low/no speed, there won't be enough load on it. This will lead to other more expensive issues eventually.
Joel
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