Using super thin oil to start rebuilt engine to prevent filter bypass?

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Originally Posted by willistheguy
SO, after all that, I'm going to attempt a general conclusion.

Question: if you know there is some debris in the system, what is the best quick method for assuring a healthy/filtered startup:

-Quality oil that is OEM grade @ reasonably warm temperature
-Quality oil filter, primed
-Engine, primed (with starter at least)
-Oil drained and refilled after 100 miles

Now my plan for MY Jeep:
-5w30 semi-synthetic. I'm going to run the sealed jug under hot water for a few minutes to warm it up a little extra before starting the engine. Maybe unnecessary but it won't hurt anything.
-Mopar or ACDelco filter (because I have those in my garage already).
-I will prime the filter and run the starter until I see oil pressure.
-I will drain the oil after 100 miles and exchange it for some real synthetic.

Anyone disagree?

Don't crank it till you see oil pressure. The oil pump takes too long to build pressure this way.
 
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Put some warm 10w30 oil in there that's all.

Its MUCH MUCH thinner than a room temp 0w20.

Bigger chance You might develop a knock running incorrect grade with incorrect HTHS.

Just a footnote - If My new, solid, Nissan QE25DE engine gets a pan near 20 grade and its low HTHS, it starts mechanically knocking.

beware!


Thats the biggest load of manure you have ever blabbed



I am just posting my true experience.

If you don't agree - respond like an adult - not a moron.

I been around the block for well over a 1/2 Century and owned over 60 cars.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I am just posting my true experience.

If you don't agree - respond like an adult - not a moron.

I been around the block for well over a 1/2 Century and owned over 60 cars.

Yes and many of which you have detailed their destruction here on Bitog.

I am just posting another true experience.
 
Originally Posted by turtlevette
I don't understand all the angst about prelubing an engine. Everything will have oil after a second or 2 of cranking the engine. All that prelube grease just plugs things up.

The pistons and cylinder walls don't need a thing. They can be assembled dry. A couple drops of oil on each bearing shell.



Hmm, I don't think this is correct. It's an optimistic outlook on how quickly the engine gets the oil from the pan. I think SOME engines will get oil that fast. A warm engine with a prelubed filter. When I worked at the dealer and we didn't prelube filters on old Triton engines, when we started those it took well over 2 seconds of run time for them to stop knocking. A BRAND NEW engine with no oil anywhere will take longer. I've seen TSB's about new engines failing after they were not properly prelubed on their first start.
 
I have done many 4 liter head replacements, most on the 99 and up with the junk 0331 head. The major issue is bearing damage from water in the oil. Those heads crack almost microscopically at the front, only visible if there is bright new coolant in the engine and when the engine is hot. They just seep. Crack is left to right. Most people don't realize it until its too late and the bearings are shot from the water in the oil.

I also would have compression checked before starting the job. At this point you should really drop the pan and plastigage a main and rod bearing before going further.

Customer would ask how much to replace head gasket and I would give a price with the warning that the main and rod bearings may be shot.

I have done them for customers and for myself buying jeeps and swapping on early used heads, sometimes swapping in early whole engines and reselling back in the day when these jeeps were still worth $$$

I never worry about crap getting in an engine after doing heads or intakes. I use the 3m scuff pads on a drill, wet vac the surface and run a tap through all the block head bolt holes. Wipe it all down with laquer thinner. That is my main worry-not getting proper torque and always use new head bolts.

Cheap 10w30 cheap oil filter change at 3k.

I don't know how the bypass works on these Jeeps. On sb and bb chevy v8s its just tap and put a pipe plug in the bypass hole. I have done this after having a camshaft go flat and after a timing chain strip one of the sprokets and the metal from it cause lots of trouble.

Since its your Jeep, I would consider just pulling it, having the crank turned 10 10 and put new rings on after having it honed on a sunnen or other good machine.
 
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Thanks DONWATERS for your response. I am fortunate in that I have a mid 99 model that has the 0630 head AND equal length intake. Just in case, I still had my local machine job magnaflux the head but no cracks were found. Then we milled .002" off the surface (middle was higher than ends, slight warp).

The Jeep runs great now. I was glad that I was able to install the head with the intake and header already installed. I just used my engine hoist to lower it in because it was so heavy. I used new bolts and a nice Fel-Pro heavy duty head gasket.

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Who cares if it goes into bypass the oil is going to be clean unless you fill it with used oil? But I seriously doubt it will ever go into bypass.
 
If you are really worried about filter by-passing, just use a hydraulic filter. You can buy them crossed to your gasket size and thread. No by-pass in the filter. I'd use a full 1 qt filter so there would be a lot of surface area so the cool oil would flow through easily. But they'll take all teh abuse you want to throw at them
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Or, just buy a larger filter with a higher by-pass rating so you know it will not open.

I agree on filtering all oil on cold start on a partial rebuild. The thing to do is drive it very easy for quite a while. You want time for the oil to actually go through the filter. Revs pick up sump oil and toss is at the cylinder walls. Debris can get embedded in the piston skirts that way. Low speed operation will prevent windage from picking up sump oil and the oil used will be filtered
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