Originally Posted By: BarkerMan
When I did the bottom end, twice, just replacing the inserts I replaced the rings. They did not need to be replaced but since I hand things torn down I did it anyhow. I also replaced gaskets and seals. I made the head gaskets myself. I used aluminum stock and form fitted o-rings, some made of aluminum others made of stainless steel. I carefully formed them into the head gasket material. I used stainless steel o-rings for the cylinders and cut a circular groove in the cylinder head to match and give me the correct amount of crush. I learned how to do this kind of stuff when I worked in a shop in Los Angles as a high school kid for Ed Iskenderian in the late 50's. Ed was my hero when I was growing up. The only thing he could not teach me was how to smoke a big stinky cigar.
Rust has not been much of a problem. I treated the car right after I purchased it, drilled extra tiny drain holes in panels and also sprayed some glop into all those hidden spaces and used seam sealer to undercoat the body. Surface rust was attacked immediately and was not difficult to manage. The car has been repainted a couple of times. Also the upholstery was redone in various parts a couple of times. The sewing for the seats was easy to lean as I have a sail boat and used my sail making experience. The head liner tested my soul the first time I tried it and to finish it I took the car to an upholstery shop to do it right.
Corrosion in the cooling system is another matter. I installed a couple of zink alloy anodes in the cooling system and a screen in the upper cooling hose to catch stuff. I don't use antifreeze but instead use a mixture of distilled water and zink chromate solution. I'm still on my original radiator, but then I have never lived where it gets cold. When I have made trips to cold areas I have added a glycol solution and adjusted it with a hydrometer so I get the specific gravity correct. I went by a chart I created with sample solutions tested in my home freezer. I believe that the commercial antifreeze products are cheap junk and would only use one in an emergency but would be quick to get rid of it. You can think I'm crazy but my original radiator is doing just fine, than you.
I think the biggest difference in making a car last a long while is not the engine oil, it's treating the whole car, driving conditions and driving habits as a system. One failure of any of the major components can fail the whole system and this includes accidents, too. If you live in an area with extreme cold or you drive hard or make too many short trips you challenge is to get the best out of the situation and then the oil becomes more important. The reason the Wright brothers succeeded was because they divided up flight into systems and realized that the failure of just one system would prevent flight. Others placed great emphasis on one or two components of flight and failed. I think I've followed the Wright brothers system and figured out many of the components myself instead of just following common knowledge and for me it has worked.
Pablo, was it rust that ended you 510? Oh, and I'm glad you figured out that little coolant hose and did not get bit by having it fail.
wow, lotta work. Why not use a Nissan or Fel-Pro headgasket?
Have you been on the Bluebirds (510) mailing list? I'm sure they'd love to read about your rebuild.
http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/
http://www.datsun510.com/modules.php?name=FAQ&myfaq=yes&id_cat=4&categories=
Very cool, Isky made the Nissan Motorsports cams (L7, L9, etc) back in the day.
I think you're right using a HDEO (diesel oil) and 15W40 should be fine. Next oil change I'm going to try M1 5W40 or 10W40 in my 510.
I'd use a bottle of Redline Waterwetter in the radiator to help prevent corrosion.
