Using regular 87 octane on a turbo engine

So we're considering an Audi Q5 with the 3rd generation EA888 and direct injection.

Owners manual calls for 87 min but 91 recommended. Before you start, yes I am a cheap bastard that abuses every vehicle I own to the very last inch of it's life, within the parameters of not causing permanent damage. It is a ~$25 extra cost per tank to use premium.

I am not an automotive engineer but I will challenge that here in Canada where we get frigid winters for 8 months of the year, where the temperature dips below freezing and in the months of November to February where it can get to -30C or -22F, the engine is probably receiving an equally ice cold jet of fuel while the parameters are perfect for a turbo engine to NOT knock or detonate. IE we are so far to the edge of the temperature/timing advance tables that it just won't matter. Sometimes it takes 20 minutes of driving before the thermostat even opens in the winter. What do you think?
Stay away from anything 2017 or older. 2018 + are pretty solid vehicles. I used 87 on our 2019 Q5 for 60k miles with zero engine issues. In addition I also had a 2018 A4 and 2018 Q5 that were fed 87 without issue. I wouldn't call it being cheap it is Not throwing away money needlessly. As for loss of performance you would need a stopwatch to tell the difference. My gas mileage was the same. I do run Premium only in cars that require it. If I were you I would buy the car run on regular then premium to see if you see a difference. As for cost to run plugs are a snap on the 2.o so is the serpentine belt. Brakes are easy just the rear has an electric parking brake.
 
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The 3rd gen E888 was 2014-2021-ish or something like that. Being an Audi, and assuming it is in decent shape you are likely to spend $10's of thousands of dollars for this vehicle. Why would you skimp on $25 per fill-up?

If the manual says 87 is okay, than it is okay. If it says 91, use 91.

Don't be the type of guy that saves $7 per oil change to use garbage oil...just to complain that the engine is gummed up and needs an overhaul in 30k miles. Same with gasoline.

Premium cars usually require premium money to operate.
 
In hot weather with significant engine loads (accelerating, AC on, etc.), don't be surprised if your engine hesitates and the check engine light flickers on.
 
Millions (literally) of F150 ecoboost work trucks are getting the cheapest gas workers can find and aren't all throwing rods from LSPI. The Porsche gets 94, the F150 gets 87 unless towing, where it gets 91. Both twin turbo v6s. If you can't afford the gas for the Audi, why buy it?
 
So you purchased a premium brand and you want to cheap out on fuel- even in a NA apllication I would use premium or at least mid grade. Doesn't make any sense to this guy...I think by law these vehicles are mandated to 'function' on regular- doesn't mean they were designed to work long term on it.
 
Octane and fuel ignitability are invariably linked.
There’s little to no connection between fuel octane rating and propensity for LSPI. That’s connected to engine design and the oil.

There was one paper posted here that showed a correlation to how the rating was achieved (adjuncts) but not to the rating itself.
 
So we're considering an Audi Q5 with the 3rd generation EA888 and direct injection.

Owners manual calls for 87 min but 91 recommended. Before you start, yes I am a cheap bastard that abuses every vehicle I own to the very last inch of it's life, within the parameters of not causing permanent damage. It is a ~$25 extra cost per tank to use premium.

I am not an automotive engineer but I will challenge that here in Canada where we get frigid winters for 8 months of the year, where the temperature dips below freezing and in the months of November to February where it can get to -30C or -22F, the engine is probably receiving an equally ice cold jet of fuel while the parameters are perfect for a turbo engine to NOT knock or detonate. IE we are so far to the edge of the temperature/timing advance tables that it just won't matter. Sometimes it takes 20 minutes of driving before the thermostat even opens in the winter. What do you think?
I don't understand why this is a question. Follow the owners manual. The only difference is that your engine will not make max power on 87. I have no idea what that means in actual HP/TQ.

Weather has zero bearing on fuel choice.
 
There’s little to no connection between fuel octane rating and propensity for LSPI. That’s connected to engine design and the oil.

There was one paper posted here that showed a correlation to how the rating was achieved (adjuncts) but not to the rating itself.
Ok. LSPI and "pinging" or pre-ignition while towing heavy in the heat with a twin turbo DI engine have no correlation? Trying to understand how LSPI isn't mitigated somewhat by octane rating. Always thought the undesireable result is pre-ignition whether it's turbo pressure/carbon buildup, along with lugging, or too low octane and to much timing before TDC.
 
Where are you that premium is $25 a tank more?

Here in Vancouver premium is 27c/L more. 60L fill you're looking at $16 or so, and that's assuming you're not on any reward programs which are typically much better for premium fuel. Shell's is great.
 
Ok. LSPI and "pinging" or pre-ignition while towing heavy in the heat with a twin turbo DI engine have no correlation? Trying to understand how LSPI isn't mitigated somewhat by octane rating. Always thought the undesireable result is pre-ignition whether it's turbo pressure/carbon buildup, along with lugging, or too low octane and to much timing before TDC.
Pinging is regular old pre-ignition which isn’t the same thing as LSPI. I realize they have somewhat similar names but they aren’t the same thing.

This isn’t a bad article:

https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/lspi-and-lubricant-auto-ignition/
 
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Ok. LSPI and "pinging" or pre-ignition while towing heavy in the heat with a twin turbo DI engine have no correlation? Trying to understand how LSPI isn't mitigated somewhat by octane rating. Always thought the undesireable result is pre-ignition whether it's turbo pressure/carbon buildup, along with lugging, or too low octane and to much timing before TDC.

Because it's not fuel that's pre-igniting. It's a fuel/oil mix. It matters little if the fuel is 87 or 93 octane when the octane of the oil is ~25. This is why reducing more reactive elements from the oil (calcium and sodium, in particular) reduces the risk of LSPI. It's also why increasing ZDDP and MoDTC, which act as anti-oxidants resisting the breaking of bonds (combustion), reduces the risk of LSPI.
 
Honda reccomends 87 for the Civic 1.5t, premium for the Si variation, I've run 87 without issues for many years. While I had my 2019 Civic Touring Coupe, got curious because of all the discussion on the 10th gen forum and tried running Shell 93 for 3,000 miles. I keep fairly meticulous records, recording each fill up.
After 3,000 miles, the following measurements and observations: actual calculated mpg dropped by .7 mpg. Drivability, idle seemed a bit quieter and acceleration a bit smoother, certainly not worth a dollar a gallon more,( this was by Butt dynometer) Not scientific and my Honda Certified Master Technician indicating that Premium is really wasted unless you're driving a Si. I run Mobil1 5W-30 EP with usually 4k OCI's and highway mileage is usually about 40 calculated. I use only Toptier fuels.
 
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