Tiguan decided to identify as the Exxon Valdez...

Joined
Apr 18, 2005
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Location
Easton, PA
This of course is what I get for not trading in the car a month ago when I had the opportunity.

Now I am stuck fixing it so I can get rid of it. The lease ends at the end of July. We were busy with the end of the school year and then vacations so spending hours at the dealer was not ideal especially for my wife. She will never understand why it takes 2+ hours to get a car. She wants the transaction done in 30 mins and out the door we go. I think they made Carvana just for her. LOL Unfortunatley because it's a lease that complicates things. The value has also tanked for some reason, more so than I thought it should.

To the point, thursday June 27th while driving on the highway w/ the kids she heard a "pop" like one would if they hit a rock or stick on the road. No lights, car drove fine, they motored on. She did not in fact hit anything.

I drove the car on the weekend and again I could not find a fault in the car so everything seemed a OK. However I did notice the check engine light on, not flashing just on. I asked her if the gas cap was loose. She didn't think so and it was tight. I intended to scan the car with VCDS but work/life before the holiday got in the way.

Now we come to this past Wednesday, I was running late and she left for work before me and since she is always parked in the same spot in the driveway I didn't really see her spot sans car till this day. Noticed the oil spots, odd as our drive is void of any oil spots. Once I got to work I called her and asked about the car. The low oil light flashed twice. I told her I would be out later in the day do scan the car and look at it before she drives it home. It was low on oil, maybe 1/2 quart and I could see the underside coated. No leaks from the pan or drain plug.

I pulled these.

21610 - EVAP Pressure Sensor 2
P24D6 00 [11101100] - Implausible Signal
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 254
Mileage: 107068 km
Date: 2024.06.29
Time: 13:52:19

Engine RPM: 2390.00 /min
Normed load value: 83.5 %
Vehicle speed: 25 km/h
Coolant temperature: 91 °C
Intake air temperature: 54 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.840 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3

18442 - EVAP System High Pressure Purge Line Faulty
P04F0 00 [11101000] - -
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 107122 km
Date: 2024.06.29
Time: 20:00:41

Engine RPM: 2674.50 /min
Normed load value: 100.0 %
Vehicle speed: 47 km/h
Coolant temperature: 92 °C
Intake air temperature: 54 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.940 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3

So it set the code(s) Saturday.

Turns out this means this part is bad and it's a pretty common thing for all 2.0s. That is the complicated PCV that sits on the valve cover.

CRP-ABH0220.jpg


The problem now is there is 50/50 chance vacuum pump seals, timing cover seals, and the rear main seal could be blown from the turbo pressurizing the crankcase. We did a short 10 mile run to the store yesterday and it got significantly worse.

View album 76

Waiting on the part now and not really driving it, went 3 miles to work today and that is it. Driving like a grandma to keep it out of boost.
 
VW calls it an oil separator lol. I had one fail on a 2013 GTI I once owned. I was close to home when it failed on a Saturday, stopped driving it and was able to get a new one at a VW dealer before they closed. Easy fix the average DIY'er can do. I lucked out no seals were blown. I replaced the one on my wife's A4 as preventative maintenance.
 
VW calls it an oil separator lol. I had one fail on a 2013 GTI I once owned. I was close to home when it failed on a Saturday, stopped driving it and was able to get a new one at a VW dealer before they closed. Easy fix the average DIY'er can do. I lucked out no seals were blown. I replaced the one on my wife's A4 as preventative maintenance.
Thanks for the information from both posters.
 
Royalty Auto Service (name of youtube channel) did a video of a 2.0t that blew the rear crankshaft seal caused by excessive pressure. It would be in your best interest to start cleaning things up and start looking for the cause of that "pop".

here's a link if it's allowed:
 
It is failry common issue. Yours should be more robust than min eon 2011 Tiguan as it is 3rd gen EA888 like on my Atlas.
I never changed one on the 2011 Tiguan, although I am toying with the idea since the car has 106k.
I think the type of oil used plays a significant role in the longevity of PCV.
RMS are in 99% of cases victim of failed and ignored PCV on EA888.
 
How does one know this needs to be replaced aside from CEL being on?

I used to change out PCV like every few oil changes cause it was like $2-10 and takes like 3 clamps and a bolt. But those are 90s early 2000 cars. These things are $100-250 and will cause WAY more issues.
 
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How does one know this needs to be replaced aside from CEL being on?

I used to change out PCV like every few oil changes cause it was like $2-10 and takes like 3 clamps and a bolt. These things are $100-250 and will cause WAY more issues.
On EA888, they generally start making more noise. They start to whistle.
 
On EA888, they generally start making more noise. They start to whistle.
+1
Similar to older Volvos with the same issue.
Owners could usually perform the "glove test" to determine if it's actually failed.
Not sure if that test works on these VW/Audi systems.

If it's still under lease .. wouldn't it be under warranty? Or can you just give it back?
+1 at least that's what I'd do.
I generally view a lease as a longer-term rental.
then again, I've never leased anything.
🤷‍♂️
 
+1
Similar to older Volvos with the same issue.
Owners could usually perform the "glove test" to determine if it's actually failed.
Not sure if that test works on these VW/Audi systems.


+1 at least that's what I'd do.
I generally view a lease as a longer-term rental.
then again, I've never leased anything.
🤷‍♂️
Since the car is out of powertrain warranty by a lot and it's over mileage I seriously doubt it but my plan is to replace the part, clean up the engine as much as possible and undercarriage. If it still leaks, take it to the dealer and pretty much tell them it's your problem.

I was against it but this was during the after flu chip shortage and used cars were either overpriced or junk. She wanted a car quick. I don't drive it and when I do it's usually with a car full of people one and a loudish radio. I wonder if I even noticed.
 
A trick from the Volvo book: if crankcase pressures are high, pull the dipstick out an inch.

Also, google “glove test” to get a sense of crankcase pressures. Might give you some ideas.
 
Yup, warranty gone at 50k, car at 64ish. Why admit a common part fails without warning...🙄 It's common enough there are lots of hits about it but they all seem to fail right outside powertrain.
I had no idea they leased cars that far into their mileage and age…

Is it worth seeing if the dealer will give goodwill?
 
I had no idea they leased cars that far into their mileage and age…

Is it worth seeing if the dealer will give goodwill?
Technically we are over mileage by a lot, they had expected a car returned at 40k. I thought about that now, should I just have it towed there and claim ignorance or should I continue as planned.
 
A trick from the Volvo book: if crankcase pressures are high, pull the dipstick out an inch.

Also, google “glove test” to get a sense of crankcase pressures. Might give you some ideas.
So I didn't do the glove test fully. I opened both the dipstick and oil fill while running. Car started stumbling and you could feel a heavy vacuum. Once the part is replaced i am going from there and fingers crossed hopefully no issues.
 
So I didn't do the glove test fully. I opened both the dipstick and oil fill while running. Car started stumbling and you could feel a heavy vacuum. Once the part is replaced i am going from there and fingers crossed hopefully no issues.
Heavy vacuum is good!
 
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