? Use UOA to find best oil for given engine?

[cdherman]

OK, new Kia 3.8 with solid lifters (seems like these are increasingly common on new engines.) #@$%!, my 240 I6 was Fords revolutionary six engine with hydraulic lifters -- its been going for 40+ years. But I digress.

The KIA potetially needs some serious service at 60k if those lifters need adjusting. So I would like to reduce wear at all cost.

Would anyone venture a guess if low Fe in UOA means much in terms of lifter (they don't lift, as its a OHC engine, but you know what I mean) wear?

I am tempted to try some varius oils, Amsoil, M1, PP maybe GC and see what #s I get.

But before I embark on this trip, someone please encourage me that the Fe #s in the UOA really mean something about the VALVE train in my engine. I don't need convicing about overall wear. Clearly, higher Fe levels are not good. But is it possible that even low Fe levels will still not mean much when it comes to needing valve clearance adjustments?

Just obsessing.....

 

[wgtoys]

Low iron wear signature would certainly be what you are looking for. Many people on the UOA section of this board seem obsessed with lead numbers, yet in my experience valve train wear takes out modern engines far more often than does main or connecting rod bearing wear.

Speaking of which, I wouldn't prioritize M1 very high in the try-me list as it sometimes seems to show higher Fe numbers than do other oils in similar engines.

 

[unDummy]

Most UOAs don't show high enough Fe wear to mean anything.

So, use whatever oil you want. I'd wager that thicker would be better. GC 0w30 or M1 0w40 are worth a try.

And, if you want more accurate UOA data, consider a rinse run before the UOA run.

 

[cdherman]

Well, then engine won't get a lot of miles anyhow, so it will take me literally years to cycle through my options.

I don't really like M1 either, but it has a sort of magic associated with it -- I am doing my own changes and keeping reciepts etc in case of problems (which with a KIA are quite possible), so being able to say to the dealer, and PROVE it, that there was Mobil 1 in the engine has a certain benefit that has nothing to do with the quality of the oil.

As to the thicker is better debate, well lets just say that KIA says 5w20 and I am using that bit of advice from the manufacturer to settle the arguement for me. Perhaps if the Fe number are all hight with xw20 oils I might try GC, but only after my other options are exhausted.

 

[mitchcoyote]

I ran Amsoil 10w30 in my KIA Sedona. Good reliable engine...

 

[PT1]

What OCI are you using with the M-1? If you follow the book you should be OK. Lots of guys will run M1 in GM engines for 36000 until the warranty is up because M1 is so universally recognized at GM and acceptable.

 

[cdherman]

I'll be running a 6 month OCI, which is likely between 4 and 6k miles.

I have no doubt at all that any 5w20 GF-4 oil will be fine, the question is how to find the finest! The solid lifers will cost between $600 and $1200 to adjust, say many posters at KIA boards. So I am trying to find the perfect oil I suppose.....

Perhaps I was not completely clear in my first post -- I curious as to peoples opinions whether wear numbers, like Fe, really mean much in terms of valve train wear and need for adjustment. I am not worried about the bottom end at all on the engine -- Given a 8-12k miles per year use, I am relatively certain that the vehicle will fall apart around the engine, except for the valve train issue.

Mostly just OCD, like the rest of you.