I have used 0w30 (Pennzoil euro) during cold seasons, I use 10w40 in the summer, I do not notice any difference between the two grades. I recently bought a lot of Castrol euro 0w40 on sale and plan on using it for summer. Worse case scenario I change the oil earlier if shifting gets notchy.
Use 0W-30 instead of 10W-30.
- Thread starter dole
- Start date
Would you post the analysis of 0w30 in your rare homologated RC 45? Along with previous analysis showing that there was no increase in wear? You ought to have that information at your fingertips. Dang, you still quote everyone else but conveniently or deliberately don't post your own results.
You can use 10w30 Honda... 10w30 Amsoil... 0w30 Mobil 1 or 5w30 Mobil 1 in your Honda RC45 and enjoy same mileage expectations...
The only difference is cost respectively...
$17.99...
$15.89...
$9.00...
$9.00...
wet clutch?
BLS, the M1 0w30 analysis was from 2012, Amsoil 10w30 from 2013. 13 years ago and 12 years ago respectively. Has the formulation changed at all for both oils you are showing?? Is that total of 700 Mi on the sample track use or mostly track use? For 641 Mi and 700 Mi on the samples, aluminum and iron look high on a mileage basis.
Do you have any more recent oil analysis to share?
How is it the more recent dated sample is in the right column? Typically the left side is the more recent sample. Did you cut and paste samples from different reports thus the oddity with respect to sample date format?
My ZRX 1200 with 82,xxx original miles shows higher aluminum on a 5000 mile oil change interval, 40ish ppm. Last OCI's have been M1 20W50, M1 10w40 4T and Redline 20w50. It's been attributed to the clutch, and the clutch is as solid as the day I got the bike. Extrapolated yours would be 84 ppm for an oci of around 5,000 miles.
Why do you change the oil so soon, everything about it seems to be in order, TBN is off the charts so to speak.
Do you have any more recent oil analysis to share?
How is it the more recent dated sample is in the right column? Typically the left side is the more recent sample. Did you cut and paste samples from different reports thus the oddity with respect to sample date format?
My ZRX 1200 with 82,xxx original miles shows higher aluminum on a 5000 mile oil change interval, 40ish ppm. Last OCI's have been M1 20W50, M1 10w40 4T and Redline 20w50. It's been attributed to the clutch, and the clutch is as solid as the day I got the bike. Extrapolated yours would be 84 ppm for an oci of around 5,000 miles.
Why do you change the oil so soon, everything about it seems to be in order, TBN is off the charts so to speak.
Last edited:
I don't think in a bike that the tradeoffs are the same as in a much larger engine. The "startup wear" from 10w30 vs 0w30 is likely to be minimal. There are two aspect of motorcycle engines (relative to car engine) that I think make 10w30 much less of a risk:
1) There's a lot less physical volume to pressurize, and
2) The oil is much closer to the points that need pressure.
Given the huge range of RPM of a motorcycle engine, I assume the lube pump is on the regulator for everything but a hot idle.
So I suspect that the real world oil pressure delay at common motorcycle riding temperatures is very small with either a 0w30 or 10w30, and the difference between them is likely to be too small to measure outside a test cell with full instrumentation.
Given that a bike has little to no emission control, I would personally run a full SAPS euro 5w40 or a mid saps 504/507 30 grade oil if the clutch is dry.
1) There's a lot less physical volume to pressurize, and
2) The oil is much closer to the points that need pressure.
Given the huge range of RPM of a motorcycle engine, I assume the lube pump is on the regulator for everything but a hot idle.
So I suspect that the real world oil pressure delay at common motorcycle riding temperatures is very small with either a 0w30 or 10w30, and the difference between them is likely to be too small to measure outside a test cell with full instrumentation.
Given that a bike has little to no emission control, I would personally run a full SAPS euro 5w40 or a mid saps 504/507 30 grade oil if the clutch is dry.
Some bikes do have emissions controls. My newest bike has three catalytic converters, and was tuned specifically to pass Euro 5 emissions standards.
Good to know.
Most of the bikes that come to America are vetted in a sense to pass European standards, as there are more bikes sold in Europe of the same models that make it to the United states. Manufacturers not going to do two different things in the tight Market that motorcycles are fighting for a market share.
I supply 0w30 SP Delo to a couple shops that run it as hydraulic and final drive oil (to include wet clutches and brakes).
Been running it for ~20+ years.
Granted cold weather performance is a goal. Gets down to -60* most winters. Summer isn't above 65* often. It was below zero today for an idea. Snow still has another month before it's starting to melt.
Been running it for ~20+ years.
Granted cold weather performance is a goal. Gets down to -60* most winters. Summer isn't above 65* often. It was below zero today for an idea. Snow still has another month before it's starting to melt.
While climate matters, ive seen 20w50 have zero wear and 10w30 showing wear.
while thin oil starts and flows quicker, heavier oil doesnt drain off(it leaves a strong film till flow is functional).
my experience anyway
while thin oil starts and flows quicker, heavier oil doesnt drain off(it leaves a strong film till flow is functional).
my experience anyway
First of all, it is a very, very rare rider that climbs on a bike in temps below freezing, 32 degrees, 0 C. Some will bundle up and ride in below freezing temps, but very few. That being said, most do not need a 0w or even a 5w oil, as 10w is plenty thin above 32 degrees.
Years and years have taught me to trust and even really like Rotella and after trying it all, I prefer the T5, Semi-Synthetic variety for shared sumps. The only bike I own that asks for a 30wt is my Honda Africa Twin with DCT ("automatic" Dual Clutch Transmission). I use Shell Rotella T5 10w30 in the AT. It runs really smooth, shifts like butter and I can take it to the recommended 4,000 mile OCI without a single concern. In all my other bikes I use T5 15w40. (The Husky 701 is the exception, getting 10w60. I stay with recommendations on this bike as the sump only holds 1.8 quarts and I try to change it every 3k.)
As others have said, oils with a ton of VII's are not a good match for shared sump motorcycles. The very reason I am NOT a fan of Shell Rotella 5w40. It sheared way too fast in many bikes I tried it with.
Maybe shop for your oil at a Truck or Heavy Equipment store, instead of motorcycle or auto parts stores. They will have HDEO oils, certainly of the 10w30 viscosity and usually WAY cheaper than $15 a quart motorcycle specific oils. A gallon of Rotella T5, here in the States at WalMart is about $18 a gallon or $4.50 a quart.
......
Years and years have taught me to trust and even really like Rotella and after trying it all, I prefer the T5, Semi-Synthetic variety for shared sumps. The only bike I own that asks for a 30wt is my Honda Africa Twin with DCT ("automatic" Dual Clutch Transmission). I use Shell Rotella T5 10w30 in the AT. It runs really smooth, shifts like butter and I can take it to the recommended 4,000 mile OCI without a single concern. In all my other bikes I use T5 15w40. (The Husky 701 is the exception, getting 10w60. I stay with recommendations on this bike as the sump only holds 1.8 quarts and I try to change it every 3k.)
As others have said, oils with a ton of VII's are not a good match for shared sump motorcycles. The very reason I am NOT a fan of Shell Rotella 5w40. It sheared way too fast in many bikes I tried it with.
Maybe shop for your oil at a Truck or Heavy Equipment store, instead of motorcycle or auto parts stores. They will have HDEO oils, certainly of the 10w30 viscosity and usually WAY cheaper than $15 a quart motorcycle specific oils. A gallon of Rotella T5, here in the States at WalMart is about $18 a gallon or $4.50 a quart.
......
Last edited: