Upper cylinder lubricant which best brand?

Fish smell
Agree fish smell one of diy indicators it pea. I believe higher pea will darken color too.one to look where nitrogen base ( most where complete fuel system cleaner like redline s1, Techron complete, marine, small engine, gumout regane product stp complete I believe sliver bottles. Lucas deep clean . Royal purple max clean, Rislone complete fuel system cleaner , cheapest that find has pea Rislone upper cylinder lubricant 32 oz for $5.90 % of pea but Rislone will put very little .I like Techron concentrate plus and redline s-1 higher pea to price ratio today in market .
 
Last edited:
I need upper cylinder lubricant because I own gdi honda 3.6 engine it has 200k need upper cylinder lubricant I can used that when I am cleaning using crc intake valve cleaner. ( just when carbon clean there some chunks that will not be burn will scratching again cylinder wall if upper cylinder lubricant it will lubricant it . )
Do you have any sort of evidence that this product will help with that problem?
 
Do you have any sort of evidence that this product will help with that problem?
There no evidence except crc which they it clean up 43% intake valve deposit but . I believe spending $13 for crc intake valve cleaner and upper cylinder lubricant for $7 every 5 to 8 year for gdi engine not going kill my wallet but get walnuts blasting around $500 I believe will too much . There no issues for intake valve cleaner I am just doing preventative maintenance for it. I believe any oil base fuel additive will lubricant the fuel system but I don’t know which product is best for that why ask which best.
 
The fuel system does not need to be lubricated.
I agree it doesn’t on regular basis it waste of money but like say used intake valve cleaner and lubricanting will be good until intake valve cleaning is done.
 
I have check sds for Amsoil upper cylinder lubricant and Rislone upper cylinder lubricant both cas # same that equals in therm base additive oil ?
 
I like to add some MM when filling up, I have this delusion that it will help make the fuel pump last longer. I also use it if I have to top off my oil and an oil change is coming fairly soon.
 
I've used the Lucas product for many years, does just fine, no complaints.
I have run Lucas, TC-W3, but SAE30 ND from AZ or Walmart was best as far as perceived driveablity - especially when thinned with a bit of Lamp Oil. Not Kidding about the paraffin lamp oil.

On my Generator or mower or snowblower I just add a 1/2 oz of whatever leftovers which is not a great idea but I have not had plug fouling from the organometallics. Yet

I don't run top oil in my F.I cars anymore
 
What is it exactly in the upper cylinder that isn’t being lubricated and needs this additive to do so? How am I headed to well over 300k on my vehicles and one over 460k and never used it? What am I missing?
Please, someone, explain this. I, too, am flummoxed. Wouldn't burning oil, o some other additives, leave residue and debris on the piston crowns and elsewhere (rings?) How much good would a cleaner like this be when added to the tank of a DI engine?
 
I would say MMO cleans the engine so well, that is what clogs your cat 😉

In all seriousness, I have a hard time believing MMO used in the correct dosages will clog your catalytic converter.

I have used, and currently use MMO, 4OZ per 10 gals or about 6 OZ per tank if on empty and I have no side affects.
I believe it does help a little, but its not a miracle fluid. When I use MMO I notice slightly more carbon on the chrome exhaust tips, but could not tell you if its from cleaning the carbon out of engine or if the carbon is actually from the MMO?
I have hundreds of thousands of miles and many years total using MMO, never a clogged cat, check engine light, or anything negative.
I've been reading about MMO killing CATS for years. I have an Inverse Oiler hooked up to my 88 E-150 pretty much since new. So for about 35 years it has been dosed with MMO, constantly. No dead CAT yet.
 
I've been reading about MMO killing CATS for years. I have an Inverse Oiler hooked up to my 88 E-150 pretty much since new. So for about 35 years it has been dosed with MMO, constantly. No dead CAT yet.
But does it still contain chlorinated HC. (1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene) That ain't going in my engine or gas tank.
 
Shel, You stated you used to be a drag racer. You should what a upper Cylinder Lubricant is :)
At the time, I never heard of such a thing, never used it of course. Since then, I've certainly heard of such products but was never curious to look into what they supposedly did or how they worked.

I ran in stock classes, FS/A, JS/A, LS/A, MS/A. My buddy, Tom, ran somewhat higher classes, DS, ES, and FS. This was mid-1964 - 1966, maybe into early 1967 when I left NYC for California.
 
At the time, I never heard of such a thing, never used it of course. Since then, I've certainly heard of such products but was never curious to look into what they supposedly did or how they worked.

I ran in stock classes, FS/A, JS/A, LS/A, MS/A. My buddy, Tom, ran somewhat higher classes, DS, ES, and FS. This was mid-1964 - 1966, maybe into early 1967 when I left NYC for California.
That's Boss Daddy-O!

I suppose it more of a farm tractor thing. Not sure.
Upper Cyl Lube supposedly lubes the exposed intake valve stems above the valve head and to a lesser extend the seats - which may be good on a new, tight guides and stem seals to prevent sticking. Then there is some extra oil wash on the cylinders when the piston is coming up. But If you are NOT over treating the fuel, that "extra oil" is likely insignificant as the cross hatch has oil, and the fuel wash creates a nice oil/fuel mixture aiding compression between the top ring land and piston perimeter.

I just noticed my mower runs a tad smoother with UCL. But this may be placebo.
That little Briggs 3.5 mower is over 30 years old and still going string with minimal servicing.

But aren't they all ;)
 
That's Boss Daddy-O!

I suppose it more of a farm tractor thing. Not sure.

Upper Cyl Lube supposedly lubes the exposed intake valve stems above the valve head and to a lesser extend the seats - which may be good on a new, tight guides and stem seals to prevent sticking. Then there is some extra oil wash on the cylinders when the piston is coming up. But If you are NOT over treating the fuel, that "extra oil" is likely insignificant as the cross hatch has oil, and the fuel wash creates a nice oil/fuel mixture aiding compression between the top ring land and piston perimeter.

I just noticed my mower runs a tad smoother with UCL. But this may be placebo.
That little Briggs 3.5 mower is over 30 years old and still going string with minimal servicing.

But aren't they all ;)
Thanks for the explanation. The OP stated he has a GDI engine, and that suggests that there'd be no lubrication or help to the areas you described above. This entire thread makes very little sense to me ...

OTOH, I bet the ol' Camry would love a dose of MMO
 
UCL is for the exhaust valves and some for the upper ring to take the place of leaded gas. Yea..hardened seats and all..it still helps keeping the seats in good shape. The intakes are less prone to wear and the stems are under vac so some lube makes it down the stems. The exhaust stems see little lube so i like to keep them lubed if I can. UCL also makes the plugs come out easier.

As for cylinder wear they wear more at the top than the bottom so...
 
Back
Top