Update on engine oil temps

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Pete591

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I got my new dial thermometer which is 12" long and factory calibrated to 212*F per my request. Tested it and boiling water is perfectly on!

Ran the 2 month old Briggs V-Twin for an hour (mowing lawn). Outdoor temp 74*F. Amsoil ASE 10W-30/SAE 30 wt. Stock "yellow" Briggs oil filter. Clean airfilter. Oil was at full mark on dipsticK. Sump holds 2 qts.

Right upon shutdown I removed the dipstick and inserted the probe so it would be right about the level as the "mid full mark" on the dipstick. Temperature read 178* F. Allowing the probe to go down the full 12" gave a reading of 205*F.

Called Briggs for the fun of it. They said that engine runs between 175*F-190*F. An oil cooler properly installed could knock off 40*. Tech said the heat in these engines is why they suggest going to synthetic oil; better heat transfer. Also, heavier oils retain more heat.
 
Well, that's a good update, and a lot different than your last results, lol.

Interesting to know. That's really not even that hot. I figured an air cooled lawn mower engine would run more around 230F+. Guess it depends on the mower, the work load, and the temperature of the day.
 
Originally Posted By: Pete591
I got my new dial thermometer which is 12" long and factory calibrated to 212*F per my request. Tested it and boiling water is perfectly on!

Ran the 2 month old Briggs V-Twin for an hour (mowing lawn). Outdoor temp 74*F. Amsoil ASE 10W-30/SAE 30 wt. Stock "yellow" Briggs oil filter. Clean airfilter. Oil was at full mark on dipsticK. Sump holds 2 qts.

Right upon shutdown I removed the dipstick and inserted the probe so it would be right about the level as the "mid full mark" on the dipstick. Temperature read 178* F. Allowing the probe to go down the full 12" gave a reading of 205*F.

Called Briggs for the fun of it. They said that engine runs between 175*F-190*F. An oil cooler properly installed could knock off 40*. Tech said the heat in these engines is why they suggest going to synthetic oil; better heat transfer. Also, heavier oils retain more heat.


Not sure about better heat transfer, but synthetics cope better with high heat. In other words, they retain their original specs such as viscosity longer when exposed to extreme heat conditions.
 
Ran tractor for an hour again today ..mowing. About the same temps..76*F.

Still have the Lucas Upper Cylinder lube in the gas...switched from the Briggs Extended Life 2X (yellow...probably a Fram) 2" oil filter to an Amsoil EAO34 5" oil filter..per customer support.

Runs great...temps running 200*F immediately on shutdown and 180*F about 5 minutes after.

Conclusion...

-Amsoil oil filter is flowing very well or temps would be higher.

-Lucas upper cylinder lube quiets my 20 HP V-Twin's valves a lot ( why new Briggs have noisey tappets? Was told "they are all like that".. Lucas additive may decrease operating temps a little...perhaps 5 degrees....but not 20 degrees.

-Amsoil ASE seems to be the right oil for this engine. Will do a UOA at the end of the season in October and report back.
 
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You may consider popping the valve cover and adjusting the valve clearance. I got a brand new 8HP OHV B&S attached to a tiller and the rocker arms were so loose they were barely touching the valves.
 
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
You may consider popping the valve cover and adjusting the valve clearance. I got a brand new 8HP OHV B&S attached to a tiller and the rocker arms were so loose they were barely touching the valves.

Any idea where one can find Briggs valve specs for there OHV engines?

wouldnt mind at least checking my 18.5 INTEK,it's going on 200hrs now.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Onmo'Eegusee said:
You may consider popping the valve cover and adjusting the valve clearance. I got a brand new 8HP OHV B&S attached to a tiller and the rocker arms were so loose they were barely touching the valves.

Any idea where one can find Briggs valve specs for there OHV engines?

wouldnt mind at least checking my 18.5 INTEK,it's going on 200hrs now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjzX-PUjKmo
Click to expand...
 
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Usually there is a range between 4-8 thousanths on these engines. This guy sets them towards the tighter end as he figures the engines are a bit worn.

I hear if you over tighten... the engine's rods and camshaft won't like it.

Don't want a thrown rod.
 
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5-6 thousandths would be a safe bet.

When checking the clearances, rotate the flywheel and
watch the rocker arms, when the piston comes to the top,
and one rocker arm is closing and the other about to open,
then you need to rotate the flywheel one more revolution
to check the clearances....according to a blurb I read.

A valve that was set too tight would not close fully when the engine gets hot.

On the other side of the coin, if the clearances are
too great, then the engine would be difficult to start,
as the compression release would not work.
 
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I have a FSM for Intek V-Twins model series 405777, and 445777. It specifies .005" (0.13mm) IN and EX Clearance, Cold. It also specifies adjusting nut and jam nut torque of 60in. lbs. (6.6Nm).
 
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Anybody have book specs for the single cyl INTEK 18.5 hp,just want to make sure as i dont want to screw this motor up it runs great right now.
 
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