Update me please on the battery market/what's reliable, etc.

Yes, checking Walmart's site now, for the Maxx I'm seeing 3 year replacement, but now no mention of the addt'l 2 years prorated warranty.

I'll still keep buying what I have been there, it's also nice that the store is open 24/7 with access to the battery rack so can replace one any time of day or night, and leave the old one with a cashier to get the core refund if the automotive dept isn't open at the time.

I will have to rethink this... my lawn mower battery just crapped out (almost a dozen years old) and what should have been a simple thing, wasn't. Walmart really needs to get their ducks in a row.

OLD WAY OF BUYING A BATTERY:

- Drive to store, bring old battery to counter, grab new battery off rack, pay, leave.​
NEW WAY OF BUYING A BATTERY:

- Go to Walmart's website, find what you want, then comparison shop other sites to find a good price.​
- Go back to Walmart's site, can't find same battery again (their site search is terrible), but need battery so pick lesser battery for less money. I thought about checking my browser history but then thought they'd probably sold out of that model.​
- Put lesser battery in cart and a popup shows products other customers also purchased, including the battery I wanted in the first place. Grrr.​
- Add wanted battery to cart, remove lesser battery.​
- Checkout. Had to lookup unique password, saw battery price plus core charge $12 plus tax, made the purchase.​
- Batteries have curbside pickup, but they don't tell you that they want you to use the app until you're done. So, went to google play to get app, and checkout instructed to use app to tell them when you're on your way and parked, but there is no place found in app to do that, only later you realize the info appears after your order is ready.​
- Walmart wants to text you when order is ready but this old account still had an old landline phone # when the order was placed, so I had to wonder if they'd try to text that and would I ever get a notification, so I went into account to change the # to a cell #.​
- Walmart's site sends me an email verification code to input on their website to validate the email, in order to change the phone #.​
- Walmart's site gets cell # and then texts a verification code to input on their site to validate phone #.​
- Drive to store, where met by teenage girl carrying a flooded lead acid battery sideways, oblivious to the potential for acid to leak out and run down her arm.​
- Girl can't take the old battery for core charge refund. What good is curbside if this can't happen?​
- Instructed to drive around to the automotive dept, went in, waited in line because only one clerk on duty​
- Clerk states she needs receipt (even though I picked up the other a few minutes ago). I left phone in vehicle, went out to get it.​
- Pull up purchase on phone, clerk scans bar code, can't get the system to issue a core refund. The purchase shows up as $14 in tax on a $30 battery, instead of $2 tax plus a $12 core charge!​
- Clerk instructs me to go to the customer service counter, on the other side of the huge superstore.​
- Customer service counter can't do anything, states they could issue a refund but I would only get back the $30 battery price and the $12 extra charged as tax would disappear.​
- Told to call 1-800-walmart. Drive back home with both old and new battery.​
- Called walmart, waited in queue, spoke to foreign accented person who was barely understandable, but managed to get a $12 credit issued to me after a series of interrogation questions to determine my identity.​
- Now I just need to take the old battery somewhere to dispose of it, roughly the same amount of effort as the whole process of buying a battery the old way!​
 
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I know, if they do I wont be buying them again especially if they go to Johnson controls, I never had a single good one.
Johnson Controls got out of the battery manufacturing business years ago.
 
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I will have to rethink this... my lawn mower battery just crapped out (almost a dozen years old) and what should have been a simple thing, wasn't. Walmart really needs to get their ducks in a row.

OLD WAY OF BUYING A BATTERY:

- Drive to store, bring old battery to counter, grab new battery off rack, pay, leave.​
NEW WAY OF BUYING A BATTERY:

- Go to Walmart's website, find what you want, then comparison shop other sites to find a good price.​
- Go back to Walmart's site, can't find same battery again (their site search is terrible), but need battery so pick lesser battery for less money. I thought about checking my browser history but then thought they'd probably sold out of that model.​
- Put lesser battery in cart and a popup shows products other customers also purchased, including the battery I wanted in the first place. Grrr.​
- Add wanted battery to cart, remove lesser battery.​
- Checkout. Had to lookup unique password, saw battery price plus core charge $12 plus tax, made the purchase.​
- Batteries have curbside pickup, but they don't tell you that they want you to use the app until you're done. So, went to google play to get app, and checkout instructed to use app to tell them when you're on your way and parked, but there is no place found in app to do that, only later you realize the info appears after your order is ready.​
- Walmart wants to text you when order is ready but this old account still had an old landline phone # when the order was placed, so I had to wonder if they'd try to text that and would I ever get a notification, so I went into account to change the # to a cell #.​
- Walmart's site sends me an email verification code to input on their website to validate the email, in order to change the phone #.​
- Walmart's site gets cell # and then texts a verification code to input on their site to validate phone #.​
- Drive to store, where met by teenage girl carrying a flooded lead acid battery sideways, oblivious to the potential for acid to leak out and run down her arm.​
- Girl can't take the old battery for core charge refund. What good is curbside if this can't happen?​
- Instructed to drive around to the automotive dept, went in, waited in line because only one clerk on duty​
- Clerk states she needs receipt (even though I picked up the other a few minutes ago). I left phone in vehicle, went out to get it.​
- Pull up purchase on phone, clerk scans bar code, can't get the system to issue a core refund. The purchase shows up as $14 in tax on a $30 battery, instead of $2 tax plus a $12 core charge!​
- Clerk instructs me to go to the customer service counter, on the other side of the huge superstore.​
- Customer service counter can't do anything, states they could issue a refund but I would only get back the $30 battery price and the $12 extra charged as tax would disappear.​
- Told to call 1-800-walmart. Drive back home with both old and new battery.​
- Called walmart, waited in queue, spoke to foreign accented person who was barely understandable, but managed to get a $12 credit issued to me after a series of interrogation questions to determine my identity.​
- Now I just need to take the old battery somewhere to dispose of it, roughly the same amount of effort as the whole process of buying a battery the old way!​

I thought that I found a great deal when I found a Deka 551MF (Group 51) at Lowe's - sold as "farm equipment". When I got it in 2018 the price was less than $75, and they had an extremely limited selection of batteries. But they had exactly what I needed. I figured if it was wrong, I could just return it on the spot for a refund. But I had to order it, and they couldn't ship it to my home without a ridiculously high delivery fee like they were shipping an appliance. I think it had to be delivered to a store and then sent by delivery van. So I opted to pick it up even though I don't really live near a store (it's complicated).


So I get the message that it's available and I pick it up within a week. Only I also get charged the $1 nonrefundable fee and a $7 core fee. Asked the employee if I'd get in trouble for installing it in the lot and got a no as long as I wasn't too obvious. So I hurry out to the parking lot and install it in a remote part of the lot hoping nobody notices just in case I could get in trouble for it. I try to take the old battery back and a night manager is brought in. The first thing he said is to please don't abandon the battery in the parking lot, as they'd gotten in trouble before when customers left hazardous materials behind (I guess solvents and paints mostly) and they were worried about getting city or county fines. He said they weren't an auto parts store and had no way of taking the battery in. So I didn't get my core refund.

I contact Lowe's corporate with my information including the order number and receipt as well as a description of my situation. Then I get a message back from the store manager saying that they would issue a refund of the core fee to my credit card, and I should dispose of the battery properly. There's a local recycling center that takes all sorts of batteries and has a pallet for lead acid batteries. It was a bit painful but it turned out OK.
 
Old way - find something that fits thats on sale. Revisit in "about" 5 years.

New way - find a TPPL battery from a a select few (odyssey / Full River/Trojan) and install- revisit in "about" 15 years.
 


Go to any Walmart that has an auto service department so you will not have any problem returning the core and get a Maxx. Or go someplace else and the exact same type of battery made by the exact same company to the exact same specks, with different stickers on it, that probably been sitting on a shelf longer, and pay $40.00 or $50.00 more for it.
 
There's a local recycling center that takes all sorts of batteries and has a pallet for lead acid batteries. It was a bit painful but it turned out OK.

Find out where all the meth heads are selling the catalytic converters they steal, that same place will probably pay you money for a car battery.
 
I think East Penn is probably the best consumer grade car battery. Excide the worst.

Here on east coast, if a battery sold at Walmart has a serial number that starts with "EP" then it was made by East Penn. Many batteries from NAPA are mfg by East Penn. Things could be different on the west coast.

I would go for an East Penn from Walmart. I'm the
 
At various times, all the parts store chains have offered a store credit for core batteries brought in outright. Only one I see now is Oreilly is offering $10. They will all take a battery for free since they do have cash value.

Any place that sells wet-cell batteries has to accept the customer's old battery and recycle it, but that may be a state not federal law.
 
This is really pretty simple.
In my neck of the woods, I have ready access to four different battery brands ( East Penn, Clarios, Exide, and Hankook) through a variety of vendors.
My personal preference is East Penn. However, the data points that I look at are price, warranty, and convenience of purchase and utilizing warranty.
That is why my last two car batteries have come from Costco.
Your results might be different.
However, at any rate, it really isn't rocket science.
 
I think East Penn is probably the best consumer grade car battery. Excide the worst.

Here on east coast, if a battery sold at Walmart has a serial number that starts with "EP" then it was made by East Penn. Many batteries from NAPA are mfg by East Penn. Things could be different on the west coast.

I would go for an East Penn from Walmart. I'm the
East Penn is the best, I've had them all! I've had Interstates last a fairly ridiculously long time, 12-13 years; but, the risk of having ANOTHER JC/Clarios one leak all over the place & be unwarrantable is just too high. BTW, the EP made AAA one in the Grand Marquis is around 7 years old now, it's nice to not have to add water & clean battery posts constantly!
 
Old way - find something that fits thats on sale. Revisit in "about" 5 years.

New way - find a TPPL battery from a a select few (odyssey / Full River/Trojan) and install- revisit in "about" 15 years.

Except this was a mower and the battery had a pretty easy life, so $30 battery lasted 12 years vs U1 (group) TPPL for $100+ lasting 15? I don't see the value.

It always seems silly to me to buy some special battery tech if you don't have a *special* application. At the same time, I could get by with a lower CCA rated deep cycle battery of a similar group size, but I'm already putting too much thought into it when a $30 battery lasts a dozen years.
 
i would jsut go to Costco and get one. if it dies in 35 months and 30 days bring it back and get a new one. i have purchased around 10 costco batteries and none of them have had any issues within the warranty period

At Costco in Canada, they have two choices: Energizer brand (car batteries) or Costco’s own Kirkland brand. I went with the Kirkland for my Buick because it has full a full replacement warranty of 48 months AND still has a prorated replacement term after that. In terms of pricing, it’s literally the best deal in town. When it comes time to replace my Honda’s battery, I will choose the same brand. Oh, and because you pick it off of the shelf and put it in the cart yourself, you can choose one with the freshest date of manufacture. Then again, given how many of these batteries Costco sells, nothing on the shelf is terribly old.
 
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Except this was a mower and the battery had a pretty easy life, so $30 battery lasted 12 years vs U1 (group) TPPL for $100+ lasting 15? I don't see the value.

It always seems silly to me to buy some special battery tech if you don't have a *special* application. At the same time, I could get by with a lower CCA rated deep cycle battery of a similar group size, but I'm already putting too much thought into it when a $30 battery lasts a dozen years.

Except I was responding to the OP who was buying a car battery, not you, although i was using the vernacular you did (because I thought the old and new was a good way to look at it) I did not quote you purposefully.

To your point below 10 AH or so I start pulling back the spend. I just saw neighbor replace a mower battery after 2 years, but I get 10 or so because I purposefully keep them maintained.
 
Hmph. I bought two Duracell deep cycles from BP 4 1/2 years ago. Batteries get drained to about 70% 4-5 times per year and promptly charged afterwards. Maintenance charges every couple months on off season. One of them is now bad. Loses about a volt per week just sitting, bottoms out at 8 volts. BP lists 1 year warranty on their site. :LOL: :poop:

Next?!
 
I've heard varta sucks lately, true?
Varta is JCI/Clarios. It all depends on what battery you bought and how you maintained it. A low state of charge will kill any battery early. Keeping it fully charged will make it last longer. Newer cars tend not to fully charge the battery anymore for better gas mileage but worse battery life.
 
Not relevant to what's out there for sale today but the old JC batteries that were sold at Walmart and AAP in the 2000's and a bit beyond, were great batteries in my experience. I was convinced that the Walmart JC units were the same batteries being sold at AAP for about $30. more. A decent sale at AAP made them about equal. Someone else made the earlier WM batteries and they had a terrible rep. The JC made MotorCraft OEM batteries that I had in 3 new Ford's in the 80's were very top notch as well.

I've owned about 6 or 7 EP batteries in the past 40 years. All except the one I have now had very short lifespans and 2 were acid leakers. I currently have one EP Deka AGM which has been good for nearly two years. The 30 mo. EP AGM warranty is not terribly encouraging though.
 
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