Unused WIX 51372-051815C2 cut & post

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Originally Posted By: WellOiled
That is good to know. These would be a good deal when NAPA has a sale.

I just wish our NAPAs had filter sales!
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Their oil sales are good, but I don't think I've ever seen a special on filters.
 
I had asked awhile back about people's thoughts on the spring used. Here, an actual spring makes sense as there is an indentation for it. Very nice looking oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
As noted by others if you check the equivalent NG1372 you'll find it too uses dome end bypass.

Also this application is one or the rare Wix/NG filters that use dome end bypass. The vast majority use Wix's traditional metal thread type bypass. As noted, the 5/1372 is the Wix/NG equivalent to the OEM FL820S which specs a thread end bypass. The Mobil One equivalent which most use thread end too also use dome end in this application. As alluded to and speculating, patent rights may be a factor in the decision.

Thanks for pics.


I am sorry for the confusion here. The NAPA store closest to me is still quite away from me so I dropped in a few months ago just to look around. The Golds I looked at were thread end bypasses. I assumed they all were. At the time I was not interested because I thought there was nothing better than the Motorcraft FL-820S. I was absolutely wrong because the very first one I cut had tears top and bottom. It is the same problem reported here on Purolator Classics and PureOnes. I should have jumped on the WIX / NAPA Golds sooner.

In any event I would rather use a filter that does not tear with a dome end bypass than one that tears with a thread end bypass.

In the last 5 months, I have learned much about lube oil and filtration from the good folks at BITOG.

Occasionally I may need an adjustment.
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Originally Posted By: Nutshell
Nice work. Wish Wix was more open about efficiency with the XP model.


WIX says the XP efficiency is 50% @ 20 microns. What else could they say to be more open beside what spec was used? ... which they will not divulge when asked.
 
Originally Posted By: Nutshell
Nice work. Wish Wix was more open about efficiency with the XP model.

+ 1
Thanks.

WIX 51372XP

B2=20 translates to 50% @ 20 micron is that right? Yes

Not much to brag about.

However this would be a free flowing synthetic for long OCIs.

I do wonder how many cold stars the standard WIX would tolerate for the short trip drives where the motor oil never gets to 100c to boil off the condensation.

Well, ZeeOSix beat me to the answer. He knew the answer while I had to look it up.

ZeeOSix,
I believe the way the expressed would imply multipass right?
 
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Originally Posted By: WellOiled
ZeeOSix,
I believe the way the expressed would imply multipass right?


Can't tell by just a beta ratio/efficiency number. You would have to know what the test spec was (ie, ISO 4548-12 or ??) to know for sure.

But I would assume that WIX is using a multi-pass test efficiency if I had to guess.
 
The WIX website is a bit nebulous on many levels. WIX does specify the efficiency number but no specification method standard.

The box has the following sentences:

WARRANTY: WIX filters meet or exceed OEM requirements. Vehicle and equipment warranties remain in effect when WIX filters are installed and used in accordance with engine manufacturer's recommendations.

For what it is worth, Ford / Motorcraft does not specify filter efficiency either.

However, Motorcraft has some lies on the box a good attorney could have a field day with.
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Agreed. An efficiency number without the standard means nothing.
 
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Originally Posted By: WellOiled
For what it is worth, Ford / Motorcraft does not specify filter efficiency either.


Motorcraft use to advertise their filters at 80% @ 20 microns. Then the Amsoil efficiency bar graph came out referencing the ISO 4548-12 test spec, and showed Motorcraft FL-820S at 93.7 @ 20 microns. A plus for Motorcraft at that point it seems.

These days, I can't find any advertised efficiency from Motorcraft on thier oil filters for passenger cars.

http://www.fordparts.com/Products/Filters-OilFilters.aspx

http://www.motorcraft.com/products/items?helpitem=1249088191236&v=101

In the video below, they do say what the efficiency is (% @ micron size) for some air filters, and diesel oil filters. But again, nothing on efficiency for thier regular passenger car oil filters.
 
I remember viewing this video before. It describes the way Ford / Motorcraft intended it to be.

The FL-820S fails in the following areas:
1. Video - High Quality Filters - even pleat spacing; reality - wide pleats that ultimately fail, rust on the filter dome end cap on the outlet side of the filter.
2. Video - High Efficiency; reality - when a tear occurs, the efficiency is zero. Upstream and downstream approach each other.
3. Video - High Capacity; reality - when a tear occurs, the filter only holds what is trapped in the media. The rest is circulated in the motor until it sticks somewhere.
4. Video - Filter Media specifically designed to provide the filtering capacity and efficiency your vehicle needs for today's longer oil change intervals. Reality - see #2 and #3 above.

WIX is trading efficiency for reliability. Reporting a low efficiency would just make them look bad from a marketing standpoint. I think 95% @ 20 microns will get the job done providing it holds all the junk for the intended OCI/FCI.

At least Champion Labs / Fram is putting the number on the side of the box. For example STP S2 93% @ > 20 microns per ISO 4548-12. I believe a modern eCore will hold up for 3 months / 5000 miles in South Central Texas. I would also guess a Fram PH2 would do the same with the added safety of a metal center core.

Sorry for the rant.
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Let's suppose there was no BITOG website. And, no internet. How would you choose your oil filter and oil?
What I would do is what my dad did when I was a youngster. On a Saturday morning go to my local NAPA, pull up a stool, and chat with the parts guy behind the counter. I would ask his suggestion on a good oil filter and oil, unless I knew what I wanted beforehand. Then, right before we left, I would ask for some FREE racing decals.
That's how my dad and I did it when I was a youngster.
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Originally Posted By: WellOiled
WIX is trading efficiency for reliability. Reporting a low efficiency would just make them look bad from a marketing standpoint. I think 95% @ 20 microns will get the job done providing it holds all the junk for the intended OCI/FCI.


Purolator made filters never had reported tearing issues until about 2 years ago. The PureOne was advertised as high efficiency (99.9% @ 20 microns) and no tears happened for a long time. Then something changed, and tearing issues started popping up like crazy around Mar-Apr 2014.

So what I'm saying is that many oil filters do have high efficiency and are also very reliable too. With the advent of full synthetic media, you can have high efficiency, high holding capacity (ie, long change intervals) and very good reliability if the design is done right.

IMO, 95% @ 20 microns is an acceptable efficiency level ... and I have no problem using WIX or NAPA Gold filters. But would not use the XP because I want better efficiency than they provide.
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Let's suppose there was no BITOG website. And, no internet. How would you choose your oil filter and oil?
What I would do is what my dad did when I was a youngster. On a Saturday morning go to my local NAPA, pull up a stool, and chat with the parts guy behind the counter. I would ask his suggestion on a good oil filter and oil, unless I knew what I wanted beforehand. Then, right before we left, I would ask for some FREE racing decals.
That's how my dad and I did it when I was a youngster.
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While on a businees trip, I recently went into a NAPA in central Pennsylvania (in search of the ever elusive filter sale) and was pleasantly surprised to see two full countertops of parts manuals that were being used alongside the computer. This is what I remember from back in the day and was when parts guys actually knew something about parts. Today, if the computer in AZ, AAP, OR, PB, or CQ does not list it, then you are usually SOL and I am not describing the sun in another language either.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Let's suppose there was no BITOG website. And, no internet. How would you choose your oil filter and oil?
What I would do is what my dad did when I was a youngster. On a Saturday morning go to my local NAPA, pull up a stool, and chat with the parts guy behind the counter. I would ask his suggestion on a good oil filter and oil, unless I knew what I wanted beforehand. Then, right before we left, I would ask for some FREE racing decals.
That's how my dad and I did it when I was a youngster.
thumbsup2.gif
34.gif

While on a businees trip, I recently went into a NAPA in central Pennsylvania (in search of the ever elusive filter sale) and was pleasantly surprised to see two full countertops of parts manuals that were being used alongside the computer. This is what I remember from back in the day and was when parts guys actually knew something about parts. Today, if the computer in AZ, AAP, OR, PB, or CQ does not list it, then you are usually SOL and I am not describing the sun in another language either.

2015_PSD, we also had an auto parts store called 688 Auto Parts, and Cox Auto Parts in Baton Rouge, La. when I was a youngster. These were on the list of parts houses my dad and I would visit on a Saturday morning as well. They had stools to sit on with a huge 3-4' catalog loaded with part numbers and pictures. There was only one thing on that counter that used electricity; the cash register.
My dad was an engine builder and a hot rodder as well. My favorite car of all the ones he had (and he had A LOT!) was his 1970 Plum Purple, 440 Six Pack, Pistol Grip shifter Road Runner, with the Air Grabber hood scoop! Can you imagine how intimidating that had to be at a red light, sitting next to another muscle car, then suddenly you see the Air Grabber rise from the hood, revealing those shark teeth and eyes! Dang, those were the good old days!
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Let's suppose there was no BITOG website. And, no internet. How would you choose your oil filter and oil?
What I would do is what my dad did when I was a youngster. On a Saturday morning go to my local NAPA, pull up a stool, and chat with the parts guy behind the counter. I would ask his suggestion on a good oil filter and oil, unless I knew what I wanted beforehand. Then, right before we left, I would ask for some FREE racing decals.
That's how my dad and I did it when I was a youngster.
thumbsup2.gif
34.gif

While on a businees trip, I recently went into a NAPA in central Pennsylvania (in search of the ever elusive filter sale) and was pleasantly surprised to see two full countertops of parts manuals that were being used alongside the computer. This is what I remember from back in the day and was when parts guys actually knew something about parts. Today, if the computer in AZ, AAP, OR, PB, or CQ does not list it, then you are usually SOL and I am not describing the sun in another language either.


+1 2015_PSD The gents behind the counter used to know something about auto mechanics. It is becoming rare to find one that does.

If it were not for BITOG, I would not have discovered a problem with the filter in the first place. I would still be drinking the Motorcraft / Purolator Kool Aid thinking these were the best filters on the planet.
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After a 5 month cleanup, I am now getting some enjoyable drives with MS5K and an AC Delco PF1250. The posts you made on MS5K were stellar. Thanks.

I need to chase down a stethoscope to figure out if the power steering pump or the oil filter is in bypass at startup on a 60F morning. Filters may be in bypass more often than we would like.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I need to chase down a stethoscope to figure out if the power steering pump or the oil filter is in bypass at startup on a 60F morning. Filters may be in bypass more often than we would like.
grin.gif

Many thanks for the kind words! Note that according to some fairly detailed testing by Jim Allen (you can search his posts) bypass events happen very infrequently and usually only when at least two of the three criteria are met:

1. Cold external temperatures
2. Thicker viscosity oils >5W-xx
3. High throttle starts
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I need to chase down a stethoscope to figure out if the power steering pump or the oil filter is in bypass at startup on a 60F morning. Filters may be in bypass more often than we would like.
grin.gif

Many thanks for the kind words! Note that according to some fairly detailed testing by Jim Allen (you can search his posts) bypass events happen very infrequently and usually only when at least two of the three criteria are met:

1. Cold external temperatures
2. Thicker viscosity oils >5W-xx
3. High throttle starts


+1 ... here are a couple of the Jim Allen threads on his bypass testing.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2981765

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3197094
 
1. It definitely is not cold. Absolute minimum last night was 49F and it was 65F when I started up this morning.
2. It is MS5K 5W30.
3. Engine starts with high idle at 2000 rpm. I drive off after the ECM drops rpms to about 1250.
4. Coolant is at temperature before highway speeds.

I think I will isolate the noise to see what it is.

Thanks to both of you for your advice and help.
 
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Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Originally Posted By: Nutshell
Nice work. Wish Wix was more open about efficiency with the XP model.

+ 1
Thanks.

WIX 51372XP

B2=20 translates to 50% @ 20 micron is that right? Yes

Not much to brag about.

However this would be a free flowing synthetic for long OCIs.

I do wonder how many cold stars the standard WIX would tolerate for the short trip drives where the motor oil never gets to 100c to boil off the condensation.

Well, ZeeOSix beat me to the answer. He knew the answer while I had to look it up.

ZeeOSix,
I believe the way the expressed would imply multipass right?


Thanks. I was unable to find this info on the Wix website. If I did, I probably wouldn't understand it. Thanks for the clarification.
 
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