Under the valve cover - 2016 CRV

[Clarkbug]

You are probably on CRV Owners Club also, if not check out that for other helpful discussions. A couple different start up rattle potential. The VTC actuator is one, that I think is a louder hard metallic rattle, gone in a couple seconds. That may be cured using a new spring from spring-start.com which is lot easier than whole actuator.

The timing chain tensioner that leaks and creates slack, very quick less than a second. That may be able to be checked from the plate on side of motor.

Serpentine belt tensioner and belt. This was on my daughters '08 CRV. It rattled at start quick like timing chain tensioner. She made the comment as it was doing it under load when AC was on at stop lights etc. I described to Honda Technician and he said they are having more issues with stretched belts and tensioner can't maintain. He said try holding brake, AC on, tap the gas a couple times. If it rattles each time that is most likely the issue. I was able to reproduce that way. Just changing serpentine belt might have cured that but she was at school a couple hours away, I didn't want issues since that one had over 230k on it already. I had the tensioner and belt changed, noise is gone. Honda OEM tensioner/belt/labor is not inexpensive but is what it is.

Tech did show me before changing. I watched serpentine belt/tensioner with flashlight while he tapped gas as described. That combination was flapping like crazy.

I am not a member there, but have viewed a few of the threads when I was looking for information. I did read up on the VTC actuator, and it seems like the spring fix has mixed results. I looked at the Honda TSB for several things, and looks like its just open ended, feels like they were running out the clock on extended warranty claims and whatnot.

At some point Ill check on the tensioner, and I do believe you can get to it from the passenger side wheel well without too much fuss, but Im trying to avoid creating more work for myself. Its almost one of those things where If Im going to open it up, and have to reseal that inspection cover, might as well just change it while Im in there.

Ill check on the serpentine belt. I dont have a rattle at all except for cold start. Thank you for that troubleshooting tip!

I do have a vibration when at a stop, but it sounds like thats a somewhat common complaint. A little more load fixes things, and it hasn't bugged me enough to worry about doing anything with it. I thought a spark plug change might help, but didnt seem to change anything.

 

[Donald]

Had a chance to finally do some maintenance on the new to me CRV we picked up last fall. Has about 116k on it. Previous owner had it serviced at the dealer it's whole life following the maintenance minder.

I needed to adjust the valves, replace the spark plugs and put in a new PCV. The PCV was definitely needed, the old one was pretty crunchy. I had changed the oil last fall with 0-20w Restore and Protect, and this is the result after one 5k run. I don't have before pics, but it didn't seem terrible to me. I see something goes on over by cylinder 1, but I'm wondering if that's just where the PCV is.

Wanted to share to get any thoughts or if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary.


View attachment 338975

Without a before picture it's hard to determine if Valvoline Restore and Protect cleaned anything up or not.

 

[Clarkbug]

Without a before picture it's hard to determine if Valvoline Restore and Protect cleaned anything up or not.

I agree. So just sharing my observations, but nothing can be conclusive at this point.

 

[Donald]

I agree. So just sharing my observations, but nothing can be conclusive at this point.

Obviously you need to try Auto-Rx!

 

[LouC]

Just for the heck of it I pulled out my old 1980 Honda Civic owners manual and it said to adjust the valves every 15,000 miles. When I had air cooled VWs the book said 6,000 miles.

 

[LouC]

Those (VW and Honda) were easy because, they were adjusted cold. On my '82 Mazda 2,000 cc I had to set then hot, which was a real pita, too hot for your fingers. Not sure why but that's what some manufacturers insist on.
I have an old GM marine 4.3 in my boat and it has nice roller hydraulic lifters, you set them ONCE when replacing heads or doing other valvetrain work and that's it. The newer ones use a different rocker arm design and aren't even adjustable.