Under the valve cover - 2016 CRV

[Clarkbug]

Had a chance to finally do some maintenance on the new to me CRV we picked up last fall. Has about 116k on it. Previous owner had it serviced at the dealer it's whole life following the maintenance minder.

I needed to adjust the valves, replace the spark plugs and put in a new PCV. The PCV was definitely needed, the old one was pretty crunchy. I had changed the oil last fall with Valvoline Restore and Protect 0w20, and this is the result after one 5k run. I don't have before pics, but it didn't seem terrible to me. I see something goes on over by cylinder 1, but I'm wondering if that's just where the PCV is.

Wanted to share to get any thoughts or if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary.

 

[demarpaint]

With 116K miles on the clock, it looks nice and clean to me.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Looks nice and clean. A little wear on the cams.

Thanks for posting.

 

[martinq]

Looks great. If there's any significant buildup in the ring pack hopefully the Valvoline Restore and Protect will sort that out in due time. Best of luck.

 

[Clarkbug]

I did have oil burning on that first 5k interval. Not sure if it was a known issue by the PO or just as a result of switching oils. What I drained out was very black, almost reminded me of diesel oil. The was a fair bit of specs of carbon in the filter when I cut it open,.so I'm guessing the Valvoline Restore and Protect is doing something. Will keep an eye on the consumption to hope it goes down, but that could have been a result of the original PCV valve also. So I changed too many variables at once, but wanted to share my anecdotal observations.

 

[Hall]

Previous owner had it serviced at the dealer it's whole life following the maintenance minder.

Does that mean the automakers know how to program the minders ? It's well past warranty too....

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Looks good

 

[I<3oil]

Ew that's horrible, looks awful, trash the vehicle.

 

[LouC]

I see that they are still using adjustable solid lifters, just like my 1980 Civic 1335cc! I wonder if anyone even adjusts them, I used to do when recommended in the shop manual.

 

[grasscutter]

I had to help some people get their ignition in time on a 2002 Accord after they changed their spark plugs.

All I need to know is the following :

1. How the cylinders are numbered
2. The rotational direction of the distributor rotor
3. Firing order

 

[Clarkbug]

I see that they are still using adjustable solid lifters, just like my 1980 Civic 1335cc! I wonder if anyone even adjusts them, I used to do when recommended in the shop manual.

Yup, plugs and valve adjustment at 105k.

No idea if anyone usually bothers, but most of mine were tight so I feel better that I was in there anyway.

Next up is the CVT filters and trying to see why it looks like my alternator bracket is leaking...

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I see that they are still using adjustable solid lifters, just like my 1980 Civic 1335cc! I wonder if anyone even adjusts them, I used to do when recommended in the shop manual.

I had shop do mine in my '17 Accord 2.4l at about 130k. Valve cover gasket was leaking some and I didn't have time/energy/sheltered area. all of mine were tight.

My daughters '08 CRV has had it done 2x. 254k on it currently.

Lots of discussions on all the Honda model version forums as well as the rest. There is the "no need" group because they didn't for 200k. There is the "always" at about 100-120k group as part of PM. There is the small subset of "you should do it, because I didn't" group who burned an exhaust valve and all the resulting issues of time/money.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Looks nice and clean. A little wear on the cams.

Thanks for posting.

Agreed. Needs a 5w30 too.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Had a chance to finally do some maintenance on the new to me CRV we picked up last fall. Has about 116k on it. Previous owner had it serviced at the dealer it's whole life following the maintenance minder.

I needed to adjust the valves, replace the spark plugs and put in a new PCV. The PCV was definitely needed, the old one was pretty crunchy. I had changed the oil last fall with Valvoline Restore and Protect 0w20, and this is the result after one 5k run. I don't have before pics, but it didn't seem terrible to me. I see something goes on over by cylinder 1, but I'm wondering if that's just where the PCV is.

Wanted to share to get any thoughts or if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary.


View attachment 338975

That baffle plate is basically a no flow area. Looks the same as my 2.4L in my '17 Accord with 130k. I got mine at 49k used, no clue on history prior. In my 80k it had almost all Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum. Viscosities of 0W-20 or 5W-30. Mine had a BG EPR flush, HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and was on it's second Restore and Protect run when it went for adjustment and VCG.

 

[Sedin26]

I see that they are still using adjustable solid lifters, just like my 1980 Civic 1335cc! I wonder if anyone even adjusts them, I used to do when recommended in the shop manual.

Just did mine at 334,000km.

 

[Legs4Arms]

Just did mine at 334,000km.

One of my cars the service manual recommends lash adjustment every 50,000kms.
At 185,000 now.
Never done, engine runs like a Swiss watch and it's exposed to the epitome of "severe service".

 

[Donald]

Why don't they use hydraulic lifters like most engines?

 

[SC Maintenance]

Why don't they use hydraulic lifters like most engines?

My Nissan VQ's use a type of solid lifter. There is no adjustment - if they get out of adjustment your supposed to order a longer lifter from Nissan. I don't know anyone that has had to and even my 420K mile specimen has no issues yet, no tick at startup even.

Hydraulic lifters cause lots of problems. They wear out, and they tend to sludge at longer OCI making them sticky - another reason I change the oil on my Toyota at 5K OCI instead of the recommended 10K. They cause valve float at higher RPM's.

All things being equal the Honda K series looks pretty easy to service and they last forever it seems.

 

[Clarkbug]

Agreed. Needs a 5w30 too.

That's my plan going forward I think.

That baffle plate is basically a no flow area. Looks the same as my 2.4L in my '17 Accord with 130k. I got mine at 49k used, no clue on history prior. In my 80k it had almost all Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum. Viscosities of 0W-20 or 5W-30. Mine had a BG EPR flush, HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and was on it's second Valvoline Restore and Protect run when it went for adjustment and VCG.

Yes, looks pretty much the same. Just read that thread and seems like it's a low flow area. I have the startup rattle but haven't gotten into changing the tensioner or the cam actuators or springs. Maybe someday if it really bugs me, but it sounds like that's not a surefire fox anyway.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

That's my plan going forward I think.

Yes, looks pretty much the same. Just read that thread and seems like it's a low flow area. I have the startup rattle but haven't gotten into changing the tensioner or the cam actuators or springs. Maybe someday if it really bugs me, but it sounds like that's not a surefire fox anyway.

You are probably on CRV Owners Club also, if not check out that for other helpful discussions. A couple different start up rattle potential. The VTC actuator is one, that I think is a louder hard metallic rattle, gone in a couple seconds. That may be cured using a new spring from spring-start.com which is lot easier than whole actuator.

The timing chain tensioner that leaks and creates slack, very quick less than a second. That may be able to be checked from the plate on side of motor.

Serpentine belt tensioner and belt. This was on my daughters '08 CRV. It rattled at start quick like timing chain tensioner. She made the comment as it was doing it under load when AC was on at stop lights etc. I described to Honda Technician and he said they are having more issues with stretched belts and tensioner can't maintain. He said try holding brake, AC on, tap the gas a couple times. If it rattles each time that is most likely the issue. I was able to reproduce that way. Just changing serpentine belt might have cured that but she was at school a couple hours away, I didn't want issues since that one had over 230k on it already. I had the tensioner and belt changed, noise is gone. Honda OEM tensioner/belt/labor is not inexpensive but is what it is.

Tech did show me before changing. I watched serpentine belt/tensioner with flashlight while he tapped gas as described. That combination was flapping like crazy.