Ultra 0w40 burns off faster...

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Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
very simple fix, if you can hold a drill steady and just drilled out additional holes.
Originally Posted By: Ducman
I initially didn't experience any increased oil consumption.
Then quite suddenly the engine started to literally drink oil way beyond my wildest imagination which was quite concerning.
Then it settled down again to normal oil consumption levels and hasn't changed since.


I've heard about these engines plugging the oil return holes. Pictures of it all over the web. ...... Scenario Theory: The new 0w40 Ultra oil loosens piston ring deposits, then they flake off and/or get some slight viscosity (gooey) from the Ultra-oil-cleaning and plug the infamous oil return holes. This fits Ducman's situation and maybe SanProsan's.
I say hit it with a quart of MMO or SeaFoam and drive for 200 miles, then change the oil again with the 0w40.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt

1.5 quarts in 700 miles is excessive, if there are no leaks. You won't see smoke out the exhaust because your catalytic converter isn't clogged up yet.

Yes a quart & half is in 700mi is EXCESSIVE and WILL show smoke
I have had personal experience with the Cats on the Celicas, and I was at 1 quart in 100 miles, and even that didn't show any smoke...three personal celicas of mine to speak of.

Originally Posted By: TFB1
As far as cat, if it were clogged you'd be walking...
I meant to say close to being clogged up or the cat needs replacing from constant CEL, I didn't mean to say fully clogged up.

But your right a fully clogged up Cat, and you would most likely would be walking.
 
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Was thinking about trying the SRT 0W40 in my GS next OCI as well, starting to get a bit hesitant now though. Maybe I'll change out the valve cover gaskets first, but the driver's side valve cover is such a PITA to get to on the 2JZ-GE engine...
 
As others said there's more to it than the oil. A really simple thing to do is dump the oil and switch back to the oil you've been using. If the consumption goes back down the problem was the oil. My bet is the rings are sticking and it finally reared its ugly head. If that's the case consider your favorite engine cleaner and give it a try.
 
Update: took the IS300 on a 900-mile road trip. Oil was at full mark in the beginning of the trip and stayed at full mark all the way until the end of the trip, didn't reduce at all. I'll keep an eye on it with updates until the end of OCI.
 
Update time! Replaced my B2S2 oxygen sensor and check engine never came back, neither for O2 sensor itself, or the cat converter efficiency. Got 163500 on the Lexus now, so little over 3k miles on the OCI so far. The oil is caramel color FWIW and since last update I had no consumption. My guess is that it was just the Oil-Break-In period consumption... myth confirmed? Maybe?... anyways, going until 165k and will change oil and filter then. Will keep you guys posted, whoever is still interested. Other than that - the car does seem to be a lot smoother overall compared to M1 5w-30, and Maxlife Synpower 5w-30. Just a butt-dyno result.
 
And also - now I try to use up all the old Pennzoil Ultra SRT. After that I will move onto new GTL-based Ultra SRT. Interested to see if that makes a difference at all.
 
Thanks for the updates! Still debating whether I'll be able to change the valve cover gaskets on the GS myself to prevent leaks before I put in the SRT oil. I just started doing my own maintenance so the valve cover job is relatively advanced for me since I'd have to take off the throttle body and Y-pipe.

Convenient that all your vehicles essentially use the same filters. Are you planning to switch the Tacoma to the oversize XG3600 next OCI as well?
 
I have been using Pennzoil SRT 0W 40 in my car since new, it burned oil for the first 4000 miles or so now I am at 15700 and oil level doesn't really change between oil changes and that's with oil temps between 230 - 240. and I know M1 0W 40 is better but I have a life time warranty.

Montrose
 
I mistakenly added the following to a post on lawn mower engines. It might be more appropriately posted here..

High oil Noack is an insidious killer. It kills slowly over several OCIs. Oil vapours from high Noack oils circulate back through the PCV to be burnt. The sticky, burnt oil residues can cause oil control rings to stick. Once this occurs, you get rapid onset excessive oil loss which itself creates more problems like a dead cat.

Oil control ring stickage is the automotive equivalent of pancreatic cancer. It develops slowly and shows no symptoms (no loss of compression, FE if anything improves, cat negates smoke) By the time you notice any symptoms, it's usually too late or you're going to need serious surgery.

To continue the medical analogy, it bugs me that the medical professionals (the API and OEMs) only seem concerned with short term health measures like losing weight (moving to ever lower viscosity oils), jogging (better FE) and eating more broccoli (stuff that does absolutely nothing but sounds good!). At the same time, they turn a blind eye to the sale of high tar cigarettes and drinks that contain masses of sugar (near 15% Noack, Group II, sloppily blended 5W30s).
 
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Amazingly many engines run 300 & 400K miles on any oil that would pour through the oil filler without issues...
 
SanPro, thanks for the update.

Joe90, thanks for the explanation. Sounds like you would be an advocate for catch cans? We don't know what the NOACK is on PUP SRT. Do 0w40's tend to be on the lower side in comparison? With the exception of 10w30 I believe all the Pennzoil NOACKs went up considerably when they switched to GTL.

I wish PIQA would do all the 0w40s.
 
Gasbuggy,
this is pulled from a Mobil blending guide, and shows broadly how things go together (not a Mobil 1 recipe book)...

Mobil%20Viscosity%20Mix.jpg


In this example, the "wider spreads" for any "W" grade have lighter basestocks, and more VIIs, and greater noacks.
 
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