Typical of oil extractors?

It's very common on an inboard or I/O boats to use a extraction
A friend had a boat with a 4-cylinder engine which had a suction pipe built in. You attached a pump to it easily.

So Vevor is the new Vornado?
In a smaller example, I've noticed the brand name "Aroma" on kitchen and grilling products? The 14", round Aroma Grill I bought new at a garage sale is fantastic.
I always wonder if newer names can be wise buys as the companies involved might want to launch a quality name.
 
I was recently told by an old mechanic that it’s not good to let the oil drain out for a long time because it drains all the oil that is still coating everything inside the engine, which causes more wear upon start up after that oil change. He said it is best to just drain to dripping then replace the plug and don’t let it drain for hours or even many minutes. I don’t know if that is valid or old wives thinking?
I am not sure this is valid. I don't think the oil in the bearing is going anywhere whether you drain for 5 minutes or 5 hours.
 
I always wonder if newer names can be wise buys as the companies involved might want to launch a quality name.
In my experience, absolutely. However, you sometimes have to wade through some junk to get to a good alphabet soup brand. It becomes a decision whether you want to go ahead and pay more for known quality name brand, or chance the hassle of one or more returns trying to find a decent knockoff (or unique product from an unknown brand).
 
The Element oil filter is in a horrible place and will spill oil all over components when removed unless you use some kind of deflector like Honda sells and their service departments use, which still makes a little mess. I found some advice a few years ago that if you can wait a little while after draining the oil to remove the filter, much of that oil will drain back into the oil pan.
Here is a little trick that I use to prevent a mess when changing the oil filter on our Honda Element. Take a 18" long piece of aluminum foil and wrap it around the exhaust pipe and frame members directly under the oil filter. It will act as a deflector and keep the underneath parts clean. Wipe off the residual oil from the engine block, then remove the foil and wrap the drained oil filter in it for disposal.
 
Here is a little trick that I use to prevent a mess when changing the oil filter on our Honda Element. Take a 18" long piece of aluminum foil and wrap it around the exhaust pipe and frame members directly under the oil filter. It will act as a deflector and keep the underneath parts clean. Wipe off the residual oil from the engine block, then remove the foil and wrap the drained oil filter in it for disposal.
I used to do something very similar to this. Now I wait (sometimes over night) and then cover the filter with a plastic bread bag and unscrew it and the filter falls into the bag and the bag catches the rest of the dripping oil.
 
I'm like @ripcord in that I do an annual change on my '68 Ford F-100. It's got a stroked 427fe and the drain bolt is over the front suspension member. The guy that built it didn't care as he uses extractors. He gave me one when I bought the truck from him and yes, I can only get x% of the oil out. But like ripcord said, I only put on about 1200 miles a year, so whatever oil I am leaving isn't in bad shape and it's only a small percentage of the overall oil.
I doubt this would cause trouble unless you run your oil into the ground and it's crap!
I may try another brand this coming year - the one I got is long in the tooth and some of the fittings are crapping out...
 
Depends on engine. JLR have a specific bung for extraction. It only leaves behind 200ml when using an extractor.
 
I don't have any idea how many, or which, engines are made with windage trays, but it seems like they'd be a major impediment unless designed for top extraction.
 
Now that harbor freight has tripled prices on their oil extractor has anyone tried the cheap Menards one?

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