Can someone please explain to me what the primary differences in bypass valves are. Such as dome-end bypass valve, clicker bypass valve, and the threaded-end bypass valve. Ive seen some people rip on a filter just because of the bypass vavle it has, what does it really matter since (hopefully) the filter will never go into bypass?
Types of bypass valves
- Thread starter schwartr88
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Clicker, leaf, flat (got the name from the metal cricket toys of yesteryear) use a single piece of formed spring steel(?) that acts as both the bypass valve and the load spring. They are located at the dome end of the filter. Spring and button bypass valves use a coil spring and a fiber disk held in place over the hole on the dome end of element endcap. Threaded end or upfront bypass valves are subassemblies that reside between the threaded plate and the filter element.
Filters bypass a lot more than some here want to believe. they do not bypass in a "full open/full flow" mode, rather they act as a pressure relief valve that maintains a pressure differential accross the filter media. They rarely fully open.
The biggest difference between the types of valves is cost, since they all perform the same job, and it's up to you to determine which type you want to use.
Filters bypass a lot more than some here want to believe. they do not bypass in a "full open/full flow" mode, rather they act as a pressure relief valve that maintains a pressure differential accross the filter media. They rarely fully open.
The biggest difference between the types of valves is cost, since they all perform the same job, and it's up to you to determine which type you want to use.
Bypass valves are a crutch to protect the element from getting smacked. The non-metalic elements don't flow well enough to handle a pressure spike. There are lots of theories about why some valves are set at different deltas than others, and why one engine somehow needs a different setting then another engine, but the oil pump never sees that valve, it just does it's job, no matter what the setting. Pete has the right idea, there's a lot more bypassing going on that we know about. It's part of the national, don't ask don't tell policy. The full flow fluffy oil filter idea is credited to Purolator in 1927. Cars and engines have changed a lot, filters, not so much. Just like the change to detergent oils and multigrade oils, someday we'll change to stainless steel elements and have a modern element. The only reason for not switching is that the land fills need more leaky old used oil filters. How the heck to you clean one so you can throw it away. With a stainless steel, washable element, you can ditch that bypass valve and stop your filter from washing already filtered gunk back into the engine. But, for these cheap under five buck filters, the land fills will not want for more cr@p to keep them full.
Louies on target here. VWs from the Fities on up had just a little screen that you cleaned out with each oil change. I would bet that the oil in an aircooled engine worked much harder than todays oil. With todays technology (have you seen the filtering in a semi-conductor plant?) I'm sure a filter for life could be installed @ the factory and just cleaned out semi-annually. Its time for this.
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I would imagine that if a permenant media could be constructed in an economical manner ..not adding too much in cost for the benefit of it ..that they would engineer one. There's also a very large commercial concern supported by the current usage, both domestic and world wide. With something automotive, you need to "evolve" things in an incremental manner as not to shock too many flows (of the $$$ kind). I think you'll see more things like the Fleetguard reusable canister and more cartridge type filters from the OEM for about a decade before you'll see a servicable permanent filter.
When they say 8-11 PSI for by-pass, does this mean at 8-11 PSID, the thing 1) FULLY opens, or just 2) beginning to open?
If 1), it would mean I need to rethink my love affair (based on Gary's test) with the PureOnes.
If 1), it would mean I need to rethink my love affair (based on Gary's test) with the PureOnes.
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Why so, Jonny Z
I don't think that there's much of a difference between 8-11 and 12-16 in the big picture. It just requires that the media be up to the task in strength.
In most sensible situations (in my test) there was no bypass activity at all ...and except some type of flat shifting @ WOT with a high rpm hi-per engine, I really think that I ran the gauntlet as much as I could with the installation that I had to work with. I tried in every way possible to get the thing to twitch. It should have overlapped, to a very high degree, into just about every commonly encountered situation ..and quite a few uncommon situations. That's why, although I respect his (Pete C.) right to opinion, without any type of real data, I have to go with my observations of bypass activiity.
I mean if someone wants to construct a different model, I'm more then happy to alter my POV on this if I can see it in results
I went as far as I could in low temp:high visc oil to simulate lighter oils in colder situations ...otherwise ...nuttin
In most sensible situations (in my test) there was no bypass activity at all ...and except some type of flat shifting @ WOT with a high rpm hi-per engine, I really think that I ran the gauntlet as much as I could with the installation that I had to work with. I tried in every way possible to get the thing to twitch. It should have overlapped, to a very high degree, into just about every commonly encountered situation ..and quite a few uncommon situations. That's why, although I respect his (Pete C.) right to opinion, without any type of real data, I have to go with my observations of bypass activiity.
I mean if someone wants to construct a different model, I'm more then happy to alter my POV on this if I can see it in results
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