Type F fluid - additives with dex3

[chorty]

Old heavy equipment Late 1950's, early 1960's. Originally calling for TypeF. It's been pumping Dex3 for quite some time, and as of last week all dumped out and fresh TSC Mystic dex3 as a replacement.

There's a seal leaking around the torque converter output shaft, and i was curious if there's any additives that are TypeF compliant, that could possibly condition the seal. Obviously if the shaft is worn, a new seal or band-aided seal wouldn't solve my issue ,but it's at least an attempt.

I feel as though since the gearbox originally called for TypeF, and the clutch material should be honored as so, any additives that might get added should be compliant with the TypeF fluid, and not dextron3.

I'm not too excited to tear into it, it's in a bad spot, and i don't even know if a new seal, assuming i could find out, would solve the issue.

What are if there are any good and proven additives to 'attack' and swell the external seals, safely, of course.

 

[ctechbob]

ATP205 seemed to be the call for that as I remember. I think all it is, is a seal swelling agent.

3

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Jul 17, 2016

Just thought I would share how ATP worked in my car. I have/had multiple slow leaks from my engine. The leaks didn't amount to any more than a quart over an oil change. Just slow drips from multiple spots. I had been placing my car on cardboard in my garage to gauge the leaks.

My first attempt was PP HM 5w30 with substituting a quart of oil for a quart of Lucas Engine Stop Leak (3 qts oil + 1 qt Lucas ESL). After month, the leaks seemed to have slowed a bit, but none disappeared. Just looking at the spotting on the cardboard, it appeared to be less. After 1 month, I dumped that...

• 360kid
• Replies: 15
• Forum: OTC and Third Party Oil Additives

 

[chorty]

it's a trick to soften automatic transmission piston seals and such.

this machine has an accessory drive that holds the torque converter with other hydraulic gear pumps. One sends pressure to the transmisson on the other end of the torque converter for those clutch packs. It's a standard hydraulic spool. I'm questioning the clutch material, fiber or sintered.

I did the seafoam trick on a 1998 V6 GM 4.3. Everytrhing sweat oil on anything that turned. Can said like 5 or 8 ounces for every gallon? i dumped in two cans. killed the oil pressure, but after a month it dried up.

I was a bit concerned of the glitter that drained out, but that was 45,000 miles ago, and it just rolled over 320,000 miles. It has some nasty cold start skirt chatter when it's -20*F with some throttle tease.

 

[chorty]

Holy wow.

8oz to 6 quarts?

That's 4 or 5 bottles @ $22 each. I hope it's a one an done. Or the leak stops. Ha.

 

[Lubener]

Old heavy equipment Late 1950's, early 1960's. Originally calling for TypeF. It's been pumping Dex3 for quite some time, and as of last week all dumped out and fresh TSC Mystic dex3 as a replacement.

There's a seal leaking around the torque converter output shaft, and i was curious if there's any additives that are TypeF compliant, that could possibly condition the seal. Obviously if the shaft is worn, a new seal or band-aided seal wouldn't solve my issue ,but it's at least an attempt.

I feel as though since the gearbox originally called for TypeF, and the clutch material should be honored as so, any additives that might get added should be compliant with the TypeF fluid, and not dextron3.

I'm not too excited to tear into it, it's in a bad spot, and i don't even know if a new seal, assuming i could find out, would solve the issue.

What are if there are any good and proven additives to 'attack' and swell the external seals, safely, of course.

You most likely have a 60+ year old seal on there. Don't expect an additive or fluid to recondition an old, hardened seal like that. Time to roll up your sleeves.

 

[chorty]

assuming i could find one, would solve the issue.

You most likely have a 60+ year old seal on there. Don't expect an additive or fluid to recondition an old, hardened seal like that. Time to roll up your sleeves.

No reason the roll up my sleeves. Seal is no longer available, because, well, like i mentioned, and you as well, it's 60+ years old. But that's a great idea. I installed new crankshaft seal, it took care of that leak.

 

[Rand]

No reason the roll up my sleeves. Seal is no longer available, because, well, like i mentioned, and you as well, it's 60+ years old. But that's a great idea. I installed new crankshaft seal, it took care of that leak.

What piece of top secret equipment are you working on? Any reason why you just keep listing generalities?

 

[chorty]

What piece of top secret equipment are you working on? Any reason why you just keep listing generalities?

Thought I listed everything that was relevant, for a fluid question anyways.

Hough H50 with drott 4in1

 

[chorty]

The bearing has an ever so slight Chuck,between that and the seal, not sure whatcim going to do.

But they're dumping lube through the flange for the bearing, so that's a weird one to tear apart.

Not sure which is easier. Cut out the seat with the torch, as there's some heavy half inch plate for a frame brace right in front of the accessory/top of transmission, or pull the hydraulic tank and spools so can pull the engine and accessory drive as one unit.

Its too big to fit in my garage, so I'll have to weld something right on the machine framework for a picker/hoist. I have 9 100ft extention cords stretched out where I'm at, and furthermore made a sketchy adapter to make 240v on standard cords/plugs. Its a bit wild using the ground as a neutral so I can run 120v stuff. I'm pulling from the main, not a sub panel, so its OK because they're bonded, right?

I had to do a lot of welding to move the hydraulic pump, so i needed 240v to burn good and deep roots.

But at this point what little leaks,I might just keep it topped off. Oddly it didn't leak yesterday. So I dunno ***.

 

[MolaKule]

@chorty
There is no such thing as Type F seal conditioner.

I suspect your seals are really worn so an aftermarket seal conditioner such as ATP AT-205 or Gunk Autotransmission sealer added to the fluid might slow the leak, but no guarantees.

 

[chorty]

2 weeks. I need 2 good weeks.

150 gallons of fuel, and I'll be done with this backyard of chaos.

 

[chorty]

@chorty
There is no such thing as Type F seal conditioner.

I suspect your seals are really worn so an aftermarket seal conditioner such as ATP AT-205 or Gunk Autotransmission sealer added to the fluid might slow the leak, but no guarantees.

I'm sure it is worn, and original.

This 318LA powering it, swapped in back in 1980, and back then its 2nd gear and chain, installing its 3rd timing gear and chain, There's a deep groove cut into the harmonic balancer from the front main seal.

I just laughed and stuffed it back together with a nice double roller.

Today I was adjusting the new carb, and it didn't leak.
And its full. So, I dunno if its worth tearing into.

Obviously it spins at all/spins faster when in neutral. Once clutches are engaged it comes to a stop. Maybe that's when it leaks the most? I'll need a buddy to help me check for drippy drippy when moving material