Recently, with the advisement of another member, I started adding TCW3 to the diesel fuel in my 6.2 GM. To perhaps account for the "lost lubricity" of ULSD. I am confident that it will not hurt anything. Since adding the stuff, I have ran about 1\2 tank, and it is running and starting nicely.
Two-cycle oil Formulations
- Thread starter MolaKule
- Start date
Modern snowmobiles use power valves that change the exhaust port height. In my experience with them, they work great until the oil builds up a sticky layer, and they don't slide well anymore. All 2 stroke oils seem to do so, and between friends and I, I'm pretty sure that we have tried them all. Even though we don't ride Yamaha sleds, we now use Yamalube 2 sstroke performance.
Amsoil Interceptor is supposed to prevent exhaust valve deposits FWIW. I have used it and Dominator with great results.
After reading this very good discussion & great explanation by MolaKule, I went to see if Renewable Lubricants was doing anything with TCW3. Looks like they exceed that standard with whatever the oil make up is.
Anyone know what it is that makes it so different????
Could this possibly be a replacement for Lube Control or Fuel Power diluted in proper proportions!
Anyone know what it is that makes it so different????
Bio-SynXtra Marine 2-Cycle Engine Oil
https://renewablelube.com/products/bio-tc-water-cooled-2-cycle-engine-oilCould this possibly be a replacement for Lube Control or Fuel Power diluted in proper proportions!
i have run a commercial lawn care business for almost 40 years and have run my 2 strokes on 40/1 twc3 oil mostly. not one oil related failure in all that time
This was an interesting industry insider on TCW3 in addition to Molekule's writeup.
www.saltwatersportsman.com/two-stroke-engine-oil-for-fishing-boat/#:~:text=PIB%20is%20a%20synthetic%20oil%20used%20for%20both,is%20good%20for%20lubricity%2C%20but%20bad%20for
And these few mentioned products show how competitive the TCW3 market is : https://takeuroil.com/2-stroke-boat-motor-oil/
I wonder if HPL has entered that market?
I know its been mentioned about the HPL Gas Conditioner, & David the owner told me also they requested that it to have full spectrum coverage & every additive package "Jambed" into the forumlation, so maybe if is better than using it vs. TCW3 in gas, IF WE COULD JUST GET OUR HANDS ON IT EASILY!
www.saltwatersportsman.com/two-stroke-engine-oil-for-fishing-boat/#:~:text=PIB%20is%20a%20synthetic%20oil%20used%20for%20both,is%20good%20for%20lubricity%2C%20but%20bad%20for
And these few mentioned products show how competitive the TCW3 market is : https://takeuroil.com/2-stroke-boat-motor-oil/
I wonder if HPL has entered that market?
I know its been mentioned about the HPL Gas Conditioner, & David the owner told me also they requested that it to have full spectrum coverage & every additive package "Jambed" into the forumlation, so maybe if is better than using it vs. TCW3 in gas, IF WE COULD JUST GET OUR HANDS ON IT EASILY!
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I'm generally a fan of Renewable Lubricants, but dang, the above stuff is quite expensive. I bought a gallon of Pennzoil TCW3 marine 2C oil for $22. The R.L. stuff would have to work 2 to 3 times better than the former for me to consider it.
I wonder if they also use Antimony in 2 Cycle, & I read Antimony is on the sanctions list from China over the trade war as they are supposedly the primary producer of Antimony. When I read a news article mentioning this, a few months ago, I immediately thought of Renewable Lubricants & Schaffer's getting more expensive.
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I think anytime Renewable Lubricants uses their HOBS in the formula, they have to use some antimony and/or copper as part of the stabilization chemistry for same?
I'm not sure, but I think that product has been fairly expensive for awhile. All their PCMO's and HDEO's have the HOBS and thus also some antimony and/or copper, and I don't think their prices have significantly raised recently.
They actually had a pretty significant sale on their 5w30 PCMO a little while back (on the quart sizes). 3.99 per quart. I ended up buying like 13 quarts of it. (I don't know how true it is, but I read on here that you can run this oil for a long OCI, and at the end, drain off a little [depending on whether or not your car uses up significant amounts of oil] and add a fresh quart and go for another 5k or so, easy).
I'm not sure, but I think that product has been fairly expensive for awhile. All their PCMO's and HDEO's have the HOBS and thus also some antimony and/or copper, and I don't think their prices have significantly raised recently.
They actually had a pretty significant sale on their 5w30 PCMO a little while back (on the quart sizes). 3.99 per quart. I ended up buying like 13 quarts of it. (I don't know how true it is, but I read on here that you can run this oil for a long OCI, and at the end, drain off a little [depending on whether or not your car uses up significant amounts of oil] and add a fresh quart and go for another 5k or so, easy).
Which model Stihl? 4-mix? Ratio? Thanks.
I mix it 40:1 for all of them. Yeah, my br600 backpack blower is a 4 mix
Yes, there've been some studies. You can run TC-W3 marine oil in OPE but you have to increase the oil to 25:1 or 30:1 (the least).
Thank-you. When I looked at Stihl Ultra specs on Stihl's UK website it says that Stihl Ultra is "ashless". Since Ultra is "ashless" it will not have the calcium deposits on the valves but as we all know it is an FB rated oil. Lots of carbon. So, I have been testing several "low ash" oils in my br800 and was just wondering about results in a 4-mix engine long-term. I have run VP at 40:1 and liked it. Other oils I like are Motorex Crosspower 2T 40:1, Amsoil Saber 50:1 (sorta clean, runs b+, good smell), Amsoil Dominator 40:1 (clean with very low smell, runs good when hot), and Maxima K2 50:1 (sorta clean runs great). My favorite is the Motorex Crosspower 2T because it runs great, runs clean, and to my nose smells the best. It's a full synthetic with a thicker viscosity than VP but not overly thick like HP2 and H1r. It's nice that VP is sold at Walmart. I've run oils that just take too long to heat up to their optimum run temp, and then oils like VP which is thinner and concerned me at 50:1. The viscosity was pretty low but I didn't notice high heat. Four oils that did not fare well were Maxima Super M (carbon), Maxima Super M Injector (high heat but super clean), Stihl Ultra (carbon), and Schaeffer's 710 tc-w3 36:1 (carbon). Stihl Ultra's flashpoint is very high and Stihl says (via email to me) if you're not using Ultra use a full-synthetic that is "equivalent" to Ultra. So... There is no fully synthetic "ashless" 2-stroke oil with a flashpoint anywhere close to the flashpoint of Stihl Ultra. So, thanks for sharing your experience.
Nice info, I know the crosspower stuff is sold under several dirt bike brands as their "house brand" oil.
I might try some, I never have tried a motorcross specific oil because all of the 2 stroke dirt bikes are water cooled now and obi all the Stihl stuff is air cooled.
I have checked muffler temps on each oil. Saber, HP2, and Stihl Ultra run about the same... 550°f at one specific spot. That was at 60°f garage temp. K2 and Motorex Crosspower 2t were about 560°. That's insignificant. VP was 575° at 45:1. But humidity can affect that, and so can a very slightly dirty air filter. I always tune the high speed screw to max rpm for temp tests. Today I am running HP2 and my br800 is running great. When it's below 50° the HP2 struggles in a cold br800. It's all fun. See pic...
Wow that's impressive. Pablo, just wondering what brand and models you have run at 100:1. Thanks.
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An old automotive instructor of mine is who got me started using Sabre, I have used it 80:1 for years.
He went on a fishing trip with a large crew of friends annually. Since he was the 'auto guy' he had the responsibility of keeping all the boat motors running.
He saw a huge billboard advertising Sabre at 100:1 and his logic was "if they are confident enough to put that kind of money into advertising, it has to work."
So he started using it for their boats and was amazed at how much less smoke there was, and at not having to deal with the fouled plugs on their trips.
He liked it so much he became a very enthusiastic Amsoil sales rep in retirement.
Of course 100:1 is not for every application, every engine. That's why Amsoil says you can run 50:1. Or anything in between.
Silly example, those terrible junk 49/66cc Chinese bike engines. My buddy was worried they needed max oil so he went 50:1 with Sabre, he starts griping about all the oil spluging out.......he tries tuning it, etc...........then he goes 75:1, and it runs great and doesn't spluge, smoke, anything...........still I don't think I would run 100:1 in those. Both ours lasted, but mine sheared a key on the output shaft and got all messed up after that. I ran Dominator mixed with castor oil hahahahahhaaha mostly, but also did Sabre 100:1 with some Dominator and castor oil mixed in for the smell. WFO on a bicycle 45 mph is obviously insane.
Silly example, those terrible junk 49/66cc Chinese bike engines. My buddy was worried they needed max oil so he went 50:1 with Sabre, he starts griping about all the oil spluging out.......he tries tuning it, etc...........then he goes 75:1, and it runs great and doesn't spluge, smoke, anything...........still I don't think I would run 100:1 in those. Both ours lasted, but mine sheared a key on the output shaft and got all messed up after that. I ran Dominator mixed with castor oil hahahahahhaaha mostly, but also did Sabre 100:1 with some Dominator and castor oil mixed in for the smell. WFO on a bicycle 45 mph is obviously insane.
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