Tuning Up 1988 Honda Accord

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Originally Posted By: parimento1
I guess today they use solenoids instead of vacum lines.


Oh, they had solenoids too! Like I mentioned, to Honda's credit, they worked very well for a long time.

A few more things. Should you replace the motor mounts, be prepared for quite a job. You'll first neet to jack up the engine. I helped a friend replace his motor mounts and oil pan. You can actually put a jack under the oil pan and jack up the engine from the pan. Don't worry, it's a double walled oil pan and can take the stress. We were going to change the pan anyway because he thought it was leaking. It was the most solid oil pan that I ever saw. Even after we pounded the oil pan with a 4 lb hand sledge hammer to remove it, it never hurt the inside of the pan. Turns out the pan wasn't leaking(it was the vent tube "clamp" attached to the vent near the top of the pan). After all that work!

Anyway, Im pretty savy with these 86-89 Accords because tons of my friends owned them. Every now and again they needed a repair but not many. With lots of friends owning these car, each different repair becomes a new experience. But, sometimes we would just rip into these Accords just to see how they were constructed. They were unbeleiveable. Fuel and brake lines were hidden through the body of the car(not exposed underneath the floor boards). Stainless Steel parking brake cable also hidden through the body of the car and only came out of a junction into the drum(s). Same for the rear brake line to which a small piece from a (high pressure)junction came out and was attached to the cylinder. Fronts were similar! Gas tank has a drain plug should you ever need to drop/replace the tank due to rot. Should you need to replace the fuel pump or flote assmbly, just fold down the rear seat, move the carpeting in the trunk and there lays two covers to access the gas tank from atop/inside the trunk. No need to drop the gas tank. These cars were ammazing in their day. The most aerodynamic Accords built to date with a Cd of .32...No other Accord has been this wind cheating. There's other cars that are lower but, never since has an Accord had a .32...They've only gotten higher. First "front wheel drive car" to have a 4 wheel double wishbone suspension.

OOPS, Im raving/babbling too much. I love this car! Best $14,000.00 I ever spent on a vehicle. Some parts of this Accord are much better than my wifes $40K Lexus.
 
sorry to hijack but would like to comment about Accords.

Love em, my dad picked up a 96 accord ex beater, such a smoooth ride. Easy to work on and relatively cheap to fix as well (parts thanks to rock auto!)

If I were to replace my prelude the new Accord sedan would be on my list for sure, along with TL Type S :P
 
The engine mounts are good, the engine still drops idle like its going to stall when you put it in gear, but then it pops up again while in gear. It seems to do this only when going from Park to Reverse or Drive, never from Drive to Rev or vice versa. Does this car have an idle air control valve or anything like that. I am not familiar with these older cars, plus it has 1000000 vacuum lines. Do you think that could be the cause?
 
It's hit or miss with what your talking about. You would have to check each vacuum line for deterioration. But, I can't remember if there is an IAC valve, I wish I still had my HAYNES Manual. There is(and Im trying to remember just where) idle speed screw(s) which you can adjust not only for base idle but I beleive there is also an adjustment that will help stop that bouncing when going from P to R or D. I would need to see the car and to play with it myself like my friends an I did with ours in it's day.
 
So...I think the car might actually be carbureted based on what I've seen from the photos online. It has the top screw-on type air cleaner like the carbureted cars usually have. It does not look like a regular FI set-up. UNLESS it is a TBI setup, which I don't think Honda used.
 
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No TBI in this Accord(MPFI). If you have to remove the air cleaner housing(2 wing nuts/4-5 hold down clamps) then it's a carb (DX & LX). Plus, only the LX-i and SE-i (86-89)are Honda EFI and the air cleaner is different(off to the side). But like I mentioned, I'd have to see and work on it in order to adjust the carb(and I can do it!). Again, if it is the carb, there are a couple of ilde screws that can be adjusted to stop this bouncing of the idle when thrown into gear. They're hard to reach but can be done with the correct small screw driver(air cleaner housing/cover removed and a couple of vacuum lines plugged so that the engine stay running. The Idle Cam is dropping a bit causing your issue. It can be adjusted from the front with a long thin screw driver and only needs to be adjusted a tiny bit. Then there is an idle screw in back of the carb(almost against the firewall) that can adjust the base idle. You don't want to mess with anything other those two.
 
Specific to your problem with low Idle when shifting from park:

If you haven't already, download the service manual available online, and download the 'supplement' for the 88. Refer to the Fuel and Emissions section page 12-118 Idle control system for A/T only. It sounds like you may have a vac leak in or to this diaphragm. (as the idle dips, then recovers, indicates it is still functioning but sluggish.... like a slow leak) Take a look at the test procedures here and this will isolate the problem.
 
YES! it is the air cleaner with the 2 wing nuts. So it is carbureted (my friend does not know much about cars). We bought the Haynes manual for the car. I will def try and find this screw in the front. The base idle is perfect, so no need to adjust that. I have a long thin screw driver (~12 inches long) I am hoping that will be long enough.
 
I had a Haynes Manual for the 86-89 Accord and gave it away to the person who bought the car in 06 but, it wasn't much help in the carburator area(a little but not enough). I did better on my own. I have even gone to our local library where there is quite an automotive section with factory manuals(the big thick hard cover books) that you can sign out for 3 weeks at a time(FREE!). They were only a bit better. Better "overall" due to their total contence but certain areas were no better. Your local library is a great resource and if you don't have a library card, I suggest that you get one...They're free and you can use them at any library in you county. You can even sign out music CD's and video DVD's for up to 3 weeks. Not only that! But, If one library doesn't have something that you need, they'll at least try to get it from another local library so you don't have to travel as far. They also have internet service(usually wireless). The only cost is if you return something late/overdue(and it's a minimal cost). And they don't hound you for the money.

After not going into the library for some time, I stopped in for a book. And only when I went to the counter to sign out the book, the clerk informed me that I owed them $2.00 for something that was overdue from about 2 years ago. That was awhile ago and that $2 is now probably $5. But, you get my point! How's that for customer satisfaction.
 
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