Tundra brake question

[supton]

Tis is about my 2010 Tundra. I bought it CPO at 73kmiles, and it came with new brake pads. About to hit 100k this weekend, and I did the oil change, tire rotation, and lubed rear brake pads. Rear brake pads have lots of material, but the fronts are maybe 4-5mm left. Seems very short lived, but I guess it is a heavy vehicle.

But I was expecting more even wear. Truck should have heavy rear braking bias, no? Or is this truck using EBD, and unlike a car, biasing fronts heavily, unless if rears are required?

As a point of reference, my prior Jetta was known to eat rear pads at a rate of 2x the fronts, and after 100k I would still have half the pad left on the rears. Not a heavy brake person, although this trucks automatic really changes my habits.

At least front pads are easy to change, and by the looks of it, no need to pull rotors either--nice and clean, no grooves.

 

[53' Stude]

These trucks are heavy and the fronts will wear more in "normal use". I would replace front rotors and pads sir

 

[supton]

oddly enough, the rotors look pretty good for having 100k. Maybe a prior owner did a brake job, but they look hardly worse than the rear rotors, which were turned at 73k.

I'll check in 10k and decide what to do.

 

[Oro_O]

Very heavy front bias.

I would not wait 10k miles. I would look again in 2k miles if it is really down to 4/5mm. At that depth, I'd be buying new pads and deciding when I was putting them in, not waiting 10k to check again. Especially if wearing that fast. Also, at that reduced depth, they are going to have MUCH less heat dissipation and wear faster than prior.

Possibly the "new" pads were very cheap ones. Get some good quality ceramic ones (OE is ceramic on all Toyota/Lexus I believe) and not worry about it. Akebono is OEM for most Toyota, but other good name pads work great - I have had great results with Raybestos Ceramic on our Lexus and Acura.

When you do the brakes, pull the caliper pins and clean and re-grease them with proper brake grease, like Sil-Glyde from any Napa store, $6.50 for a 4 oz tube. Also useful stuff to coat door, window, sunroof seals with. Very useful stuff and will potentially avoid problems later if you spend a few dollars on cleaning now and greasing properly vs. brakes binding later.

 

[supton]

It was CPO, it had better be oem quality brakes!

Although... I meant 4-5mm pad material, not including metal backing pkate. Does that change opinion?

I have not had problems with front brakes before, they stay nice and free. Rear brakes like to freeze up, and seem to require lubing twice a year. I need to find a source for the stainless metal bits, they get real bad after a couple of years, long before the pads are kaput.